Lof8 - Andy
Lof8 - Andy GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
6/12/20 10:10 a.m.

I've recently acquired a side-by-side and I'd like to be able to tow it and camp inside the same trailer.  Now there are trailers specifically designed for this purpose, but they are expensive!  Lightly used enclosed cargo trailers are less expensive than I would've guessed.  I'm thinking if I can build a bed that mounts to the wall and can flip up mostly out of the way and get an a/c unit of some kind, I'll be camping like a king.  

The side-by-side is about 5.5' wide by 10' long.  I'm thinking a V-nosed trailer 7' wide x 14' long should hold it fine and give me space for other necessities.

 

Here's one local that I'm currently eyeing.  Its got a ramp entry on the back and a side door.


Am I overlooking anything?  Anybody got any tips?

pirate
pirate HalfDork
6/12/20 10:41 a.m.

Go to this website http://www.mirageinc.com/rv and look under " Trailer Accessories" they have fold out beds and other items you might be able to use for a conversion into a camper.

Apexcarver
Apexcarver UltimaDork
6/12/20 10:58 a.m.

I have been looking at doing similar to the trailer I use for my F500.  

 

Here are a few things I am looking at 

  • Windows - gonna have to put in at least one in the door, probably one on the other side of the trailer as well
  • Flooring - probably coin mat, might have a removable rug to go on top for full camp mode. 
  • Beds - I am looking at making it work for wife and kid as well as me, so what I am looking at is making something removable out of 2x4 with a canvas sling between them.  poke 2x4's through canvas and drop into slots.  Think bunk bed cots that are fast up/down with one of them able to go above the formula car in there if I solo camp at a track.  Also aerobed on the floor to increase sleeping capacity.
  • LED lights with a battery to power them. I intend to put a winch recessed into the floor, so having the battery for that power some LED lights is a no-brainer.
  • Screen curtain for doors - keep the bugs out, let the air through.
  • I already painted the roof white, MASSIVE reduction in heat. 
dps214
dps214 Reader
6/12/20 11:02 a.m.

Assuming you're planning on keeping the trailer floor relatively clean from mud and dirt I'd start with an air mattress on the floor and see how you feel about it. We did that last season and it's at least as comfortable as the $60-100/night hotels we would have normally stayed in. And requires little to no investment or effort to do.

93gsxturbo
93gsxturbo SuperDork
6/12/20 11:15 a.m.

My wife and I looked at doing exactly this.  Challenge I run into is I am over 6' tall and by the time you would insulate and finish the roof (and you DO want it finished) you end up needing a 7' tall trailer, and thats a pretty big wall to push through the air.  Some of the other challenges we ran into was by the time I crunched out all the numbers I could get myself a pretty decent used toy hauler.  Bathroom facilities were also a bit of a trick if you need them or want them.   

Now the cool stuff - you built it and its yours.  Its smaller and more compact.  You can use higher quality fixtures than your typical cardboard box on wheels RV.  Its camouflage and you can hide it easier than a big toy hauler.  You can also double duty and use it as a box on wheels for hauling other stuff.    Its more easily configurable and you dont end up with items you don't need.

At this point if I was to build one, I would take the easy way out and pop a rooftop tent on top of a smaller trailer.  Rooftop tents are pretty nice and cheap, you could still have the inside of the trailer as dry lockable storage, and you wouldnt be stuck sleeping in the same dirty and stinky area as your side by side.  You can also use the inside of the trailer as dry lockable storage while you are sleeping which is a major plus.  Tents sleep better than a trailer every day of the week.  A lot more well ventilated.  

Add some solar, some LED lights, a couple of batteries, a nice 12V fridge, propane tank and propane stove, and an awning off the side of the trailer and you are in the money.

 

 

Petrolburner
Petrolburner Dork
6/12/20 12:30 p.m.

Time is money and used toyhaulers are about what you're going to spend converting a decent trailer.  A really small toyhauler or a really high quality custom build have to be really important to you to go down that road.  I'm building a BoxVan because my requirements are very specific and the market hasn't addressed them yet.  Toyhaulers are all over if you're willing and able to pull a trailer.  

pirate
pirate HalfDork
6/12/20 12:31 p.m.

Another thing to consider is a powered roof top vent such as a Fan-Tastic (https://www.amazon.com/Fan-Tastic-Vent-3-Speed-Manual-Crank/dp/B0027XAN78) which are reversible and allow you to either exhaust or suck air into the enclosed area. They have multiple models and are really superior to the cheaper powered vents. They also make hood to cover the vents so they can be used while raining.

californiamilleghia
californiamilleghia Dork
6/12/20 12:53 p.m.

I know  they are designed not to have fumes , but what does a side by side smell like ? plus the 5 gallon jug of fuel ?  Just sayin !

Add a pull out canopy on the side  , maybe on each side 

VW buses used the spare tire for the base of the table ,  and an adapter was bolted to the wheel center to hold the pole .

And if you were handy you could make a pop-up tent in the center of the roof to give you head room and light..... this is probably too big , but gives you the idea

 

Lof8 - Andy
Lof8 - Andy GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
6/12/20 2:17 p.m.
dps214 said:

Assuming you're planning on keeping the trailer floor relatively clean from mud and dirt I'd start with an air mattress on the floor and see how you feel about it. We did that last season and it's at least as comfortable as the $60-100/night hotels we would have normally stayed in. And requires little to no investment or effort to do.

This is pretty much the plan.  I'm not going to be fully outfitting this trailer - just making it an acceptable place to spend the night safe from rain. 

In the few hours since making this thread, I got a hold of the guy with the silver trailer I referenced in the OP, checked it out, hit the bank, and its now sitting in my driveway.  The plan is in motion!  My old pop-up camper has lots of interest and I'm betting it goes to anew home this afternoon. 

Thanks for the tips and ideas so far.  Keep em coming!

rob_lewis
rob_lewis UltraDork
6/12/20 2:27 p.m.

http://www.tnttt.com/

Tons of ideas for maximizing space and different projects that people have done.  They have a section on converting cargo trailers that should give you a bunch of ideas.

-Rob

codrus (Forum Supporter)
codrus (Forum Supporter) GRM+ Memberand UberDork
6/12/20 2:51 p.m.

Do you plan to have the vehicle in the trailer while you're sleeping, or will you unload it?  Obviously this affects the space constraints, but one thing that isn't super obvious up front is that if you're camping the day after using it, having the vehicle inside with you will make the trailer quite a bit warmer as it heat soaks.

If you're putting a big battery on it, consider a 100 watt solar panel on the roof to keep it topped up.  Having to remember to plug trailers in at home is annoying.

 

frenchyd
frenchyd PowerDork
6/12/20 4:00 p.m.

In reply to Lof8 - Andy :

Balance.  The heavy vehicle to the back? Whip sway swoosh crash. 
you want 55% of the total weight ahead of the center line between the rear axles.  
 
What  I did with two 15 foot cars in a 28 foot trailer  is put the front car  in as close as I could to the front and then built a removable ramp over the back  I had to get clever using pullies with the winch to reach over the first car to winch the second car up and overbuy it worked. 

glueguy (Forum Supporter)
glueguy (Forum Supporter) GRM+ Memberand Dork
6/12/20 5:06 p.m.

Maybe do a roll up carpet.  In a roll when the sxs is inside, then unroll it to give you a clean softer floor for the night.  Make a fuel jug holder for the tongue?  You're not going to want that inside with you.

Curtis73 (Forum Supporter)
Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
6/12/20 6:35 p.m.

I've done similar things with trailers and vans.  I turned a 6x8 utility trailer into the world's worst teardrop. :)

Strong suggestion:  Get one with wheel wells inside.  I realize that means probably going a bit longer than you want, but you'll thank me.  8' wide is SO much better than 6'6".

Tons of ventilation.  That thing will be an oven (or a freezer).  Count on it being an easy 30 degrees hotter than outside when the sun hits it.  That means electric would be a nice addition.  Nothing fancy, just maybe a 2-gang box with a couple duplexes and a 12-ga extension cord.  That way you'll have 20A to run a fan, a cube heater, or phone chargers, and a small A/C.  Without insulation, double the size of A/C you need when shopping.  Whereas a 5000 BTU unit might do a 10x12 bedroom in an insulated house, go for a big one.

Additionally, ventilation will be a real necessity when sharing a small space with 5 gallons of gasoline.  Toy-hauler RVs are very specific that you can't sleep in the garage while a toy is inside.  You have to sleep on the opposite side of the wall.  For that reason I might suggest a way to isolate the spaces from each other.

I might also suggest a small water tank mounted high so you can get water by gravity for washing hands, rinsing mud, drinking water in the boonies, etc.  Fill it with a hose, let gravity do the rest.

I have gone through this for the last 10 years.  I have layouts of toy haulers on paper, in CAD software, and in my brain, except I was going to use a 48' tractor trailer van to haul a car and motorcycle everywhere I went.

Lof8 - Andy
Lof8 - Andy GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
6/12/20 9:30 p.m.

This trailer isn't big enough to sleep inside with the sxs. There's only a few feet of open space up front when it's loaded. So when it's time to sleep, the vehicle will be outside. I'll probably need to load the sxs in reverse for ideal weight distribution. 
All of the "amenities" will need to fit in a pretty small space. 

wake74
wake74 New Reader
6/12/20 9:33 p.m.

I did just what you are asking about.  I started with a used 20' Pace V nose with upgraded axles.  Cost me about $3,200 IRIC.  Stripped the wall panels down and insulated the walls and ceiling.  Put 1/4" plywood on the ceiling.  Painted.  Then did Rustoleum Epoxy garage flooring.  I bought the cheapest low pile carpet I could find, and roll that out when in "camper" mode at the track.   Installed a 30 amp RV outlet on the exterior, and wired up a breaker panel.  Ran multiple circuits around the trailer (I ran it surface mount in MC Cable, as it was going to be a LOT of work to bury it).  Installed a few 4' LED lights.  Removed the vent unit on the roof and put in a 15k AC unit with heat strips.  Work bench in the front with a TV above it.  Cheap HF winch, and a 12V automotive battery.  I can backfeed the panel to feed the LED lights with an inverter if I don't have it plugged into shore power.  E Track down both walls.

I just sleep on a decent quality air mattress.  

I probably have a bit over $5k in it.  The only thing I'd really like to add is a window, but I'm worried about security as I stays in a storage yard. Well, and an exterior light by the door.

Before AC and one set-up in camp mode.  I guess I could have picked up a bit first.

Lof8 - Andy
Lof8 - Andy GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
6/12/20 10:04 p.m.

In reply to wake74 :

Yep, we're on the same page. That looks great!

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