Ugh (snapped exhaust stud content)

So I installed my ZOMGRICERBLING cat-back system today, and at one point, due to rusted bolts, I needed to unbolt the downpipe from the header (long story). It is a round-sided, triangular flange with connections at each corner, pretty standard stuff. Each has a nut threaded onto a stud that has threads that thread into the upper flange, and pass through the lower unthreaded flange. Turns out, those were damned rusty too, because I snapped one of the studs clean off. There is engine cradle 2" to the front, and engine block 1" to the back of this snapped stud, so there's absolutely no room to get vice grips in there, and I don't have a welder, so welding a tab to the stud and twisting won't work, and there's no room to spin it anyway. Above the upper flange, there is a gigantic pre-catalytic converter catalyst (thank you, Commufornia) so access from above is severely limited as well.

My options: 1. Do nothing- but the thought of 1000* exhaust gases flying out of the one corner aimed directly at the coolant inlet hose doesn't make my socks roll up and down. 2. Clean the rust off of that corner and JB Weld the two flanges together- not ideal, and I'm screwed if the downpipe needs to be removed/repaired in the future. 3. Drill the stud out somehow- GRM will have to school me on this one, and I don't have metal drill bits, so this will require spending more money. 4. Buy another header from the boneyard- but it's 150 miles round trip, and since it has a tiny catalytic converter welded to it, it's sure to be expensive.

What would you do?

is there anything to grip or did the stud break flush? a stud remover might work if there's enough shank left

this type doesn't require a lotta room

I'd drill it out. That's the proper fix. You don't need to tap the hold out after drilling, I'd just use a nut and bolt through both flanges with lots of copper anti-seize. Even if that bolt should snap again, replacement will be a snap.

I don't believe JB weld would hold, and buying another would cost more. Worst case scenario you'd have to remove the manifold to drill it, but you'd be doing that anyways if you were replacing it, only without the cost of a new/used one.

This is going to sound hokey, but do you have two flanges at that joint. I busted a header bolt on a Olds 350 once and couldn't get it out. A 4" C-clamp held that joint together for 75K miles. The amazing part is when that car went to the junk yard the clamp was still good and went back in the tool drawer.

fasted58 wrote: this type doesn't require a lotta room

That's intriguing. What's it called? Brand name etc.

I thought about a C-clamp, because there are two flanges, with a lot of overlap space, but immediately erased the idea from my head because it was "kinda ghetto." Haha.

I did the c-clamp thing on a vw once. You can buy some really small c-clamps. I also drilled out a broken stud on my wifes Gr Marquis. Lots of work. I used a cutoff wheel to cut the stud flush, Center drilled a start hole, then drilled & tapped. Drilling a thru hole sounds easiest.

here's one site:

http://www.toolsource.com/cutting-threading-extractors-stud-removers-c-330_335.html

Klann is pricey, Mayhew somewhat less and Titan (HF) cheap.

Or, there's this off the shelf at Sears, 'bout $30:

I'd check 'em out to fit your situation before popping for one on internet sales. Or HF it if it fits

In reply to Twin_Cam:

shoulda said that extractor in the pic is a Klann tool for over $100, the Mayhew is 50 sumthin', Titan twenny sumthin

Toyman01 wrote: This is going to sound hokey, but do you have two flanges at that joint. I busted a header bolt on a Olds 350 once and couldn't get it out. A 4" C-clamp held that joint together for 75K miles. The amazing part is when that car went to the junk yard the clamp was still good and went back in the tool drawer.

Toyman, you made me LOL.

Ive been driving my escort with only one bolt at the header. Guess I'll go ahead and C-clamp it. Kind of tired of rolling down the windows when I stop for a while. Cough cough.

Twin_Cam wrote: I thought about a C-clamp, because there are two flanges, with a lot of overlap space, but immediately erased the idea from my head because it was "kinda ghetto." Haha.

When you suggested using JB Weld, I think you already established that ghetto fixes are acceptable.

I vote for drilling out the stud. The trick is centerpunching the broken bolt dead center, I've had the best luck filing or grinding the broken end of the stud flat first so that the center is easier to locate.

The C-clamp repair happened a long time ago. I was broke and didn't even own a drill. That said, it did work like a charm. No worse than the carburetor I "fixed" with a pencil. I did have to replace the pencil a couple of times though.

stuart in mn wrote:

Twin_Cam wrote: I thought about a C-clamp, because there are two flanges, with a lot of overlap space, but immediately erased the idea from my head because it was "kinda ghetto." Haha.

When you suggested using JB Weld, I think you already established that ghetto fixes are acceptable.

Hahahaha touche, sir. Thanks for the laugh. I'm seriously considering just buying a baby C-clamp and doing that. I'm done with doing it super-right on this car, it only seems to get me into more trouble. Like replacing the entire cat-back exhaust with a fancy 304 stainless one when I could've just gone to a exhaust shop and had them weld a patch on for $30.

Left handed drill bits. Ussually grab the broken stud or bold and back them right out. HF has a set, I dont know the quality of them but for the ocasional use thet will get they should be fine.

Take it off the car if you're gonna try to execute a proper repair. You will save time and frustration, I promise.

If you are OK with being ghetto, the C Clamp idea will probably work just fine.

There are very compact, heavy duty c clamps that are made to hang pipe from structural steel. If youcan source one of those, it will make for an excellent ghetto repair. IIRC the screw part is somewhat pointed and will go right in the hole in the flange. Ask me how I know

Don49 wrote: There are very compact, heavy duty c clamps that are made to hang pipe from structural steel.

They're called beam clamps:

You can probably get them from McMaster-Carr or Grainger.

I have seen clamps made just to afix header flanges. I know the local Napa sells them.. I just can't find them on their website. Might be a local store thing

I had the same exact thing happen once. I used a dremel to cut the stud off flush, and then drilled the rest out. Corded drill, good bits, plenty of cutting oil, and low RPM on the drill worked really well. I was pleasantly surprised that it took about 1/4 of the time I was expecting it to.

Although if I had known about the C clamp method, that would have been much easier!

Lowes carries those beam clamps

Ah! I just so happen to know about an almost empty brewery that has about 600 of those hanging from the ceiling that used to support conveyor lines [maniacal laugh]

Although that would be stealing from my employer

Well, you can ask for forgiveness, or ask for permission.