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Curtis73 (Forum Supporter)
Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) MegaDork
1/23/21 10:22 a.m.

Yes, the search function is a bit different and a little clumsy, but if you click the magnifying glass in the top header, you can enter your search words.  You'll get a bunch of web results (money reasons) and then get website results.  Once you have done the search you can narrow results by clicking "forum posts" or something.  Then you can ignore the web results and scroll down to the actual results from the forum.

... or click on the web results.  They're probably worth a few pennies to keep the forum alive.

preach (fs)
preach (fs) HalfDork
1/23/21 10:33 a.m.

Your incandescent bulb on your dash will not affect the lights. I converted my Tacoma and all I had to do was put the LED flasher in, I never changed the dash bulbs.

Helirich
Helirich New Reader
1/23/21 11:40 a.m.
Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) said:

Did you see this part of the wiring diagram?

No, I did not. I will try it. My instructions might not say that. I know they said the blue wire was for the indicators on the pod. (I didn't need them so I assumed just leave it off.) 

Thanx for the help. I wish I was home and I would check it right now. (I'll be back tomorrow)

Helirich
Helirich New Reader
1/24/21 5:38 p.m.

Update,

 

So I checked my instructions and they do not have the part about hooking the blue and black wires together on a two spade flasher. I tried it anyways and it did not work. 

All this time I'm trying to make the dash indicator lights work because the actual turn signal lights are not on the truck. (I have them off to prep the truck for paint) So I figured maybe I need some kind of path to ground besides the dash light. I got one of the turn signal lights and hooked it up. Still does not work.

They mention that the switch housing must be grounded if you want the indicators on the switch to work. I don't care about those, but I thought maybe that ground is somehow important to the rest of the operation. Grounded the housing and still doesn't work.

Just for fun I hooked that turn signal light to ground and directly to the output of the flasher. (No turn signal switch) The turn signal flashed normally. So now I would say the flasher unit, turn signal light and dash indicator are all working. It really seems like I got a bad switch. 

If anybody has another idea, I'm listening.

 

Just a logic check. The way I hooked my dash indicator lights up is to splice into the front turn signal wires. The reason I did this is because the back turn signals operate the brakes also. I did not want the dash lights to both light when I hit the brakes. Does this sound reasonable? Would there be any reason to test with rear lights hooked up. (I have all the lights, there just not on the truck.

Curtis73 (Forum Supporter)
Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) MegaDork
1/24/21 6:13 p.m.

Easy enough to check continuity across the switch.  That will confirm it's messed up.

Also possible that someone in a rush assembled it with the wrong color wires in the wrong spots.

Helirich
Helirich New Reader
1/24/21 7:32 p.m.
Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) said:

Easy enough to check continuity across the switch.  That will confirm it's messed up.

Also possible that someone in a rush assembled it with the wrong color wires in the wrong spots.

That's a good point. How about this? If I hook one end of the multimeter to the red wire and switch a signal on, I should have continuity to some other wire, right? (As long as the red wire is right) 

I guess I need to check every wire to every other wire with the switch on. 

Helirich
Helirich New Reader
1/25/21 7:06 p.m.

Ok, I'm a dumb sh1t. I had the flasher power going to the red wire. It's supposed to go to the black wire. The red wire is for the brake switch. (Not hooked up yet) 

Anyways, I have turn signals now.

Thanks all.

Curtis73 (Forum Supporter)
Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) MegaDork
1/25/21 7:12 p.m.

You are NOT a dumb sh1t.  You are blessed with an abundance of dumbassery.  There is a difference.

My friend would call this an "ID-10-T error - Ultra-high-impedence air gap"  (wire wasn't hooked up)

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