Volvo 960 - no fuel - any ideas?

I'm still trying to get this '95 Volvo 960 running. I bought it with a blown headgasket, got that repaired, but had no spark.

I patched the harness and got it resolved. Then I had no fuel.

So I cut out the upper portion of the harness and spliced in a new one.

I still don't have fuel.

With the key on and injectors not plugged in I have 12v on one side of each injector.

With key on and injectors plugged in, if I remove an injector, I have 12v on both sides. This occurs on each bank of injectors.

Any ideas what could be going on?

All the injectors had internal resistance of ~ 17.3 ohms, so I think they are OK.

When you say no fuel, do you mean the pump isn't running, or the injectors are not triggering?

Injectors not triggering. Fuel pump is cranking away.

does it have spark? the ecm probably needs to see out-put from the ignition to fire the injectors, check all your grounds carefully too. Also, 12 V+ on both sides of the injector plugs sugests a short, likely something pinched, but I wouldn't rule out a fault in the ecm especially since you mentioned having to fix some other wires (what ever was damaged with those wires might have taken out something else).

Yup, have spark.

Though, I now feel the injectors clicking, so I don't know what is going on.

I need to buy a battery charger today.

wtf?

Fuel pressure: 48 psi Used noid lights on all injector connectors I feel the injectors clicking Cam timing is correct 180+psi on all cylinders except #4 - 150psi, probably stuck rings Over 1" of spark

And it still won't start.

Only other thing I can think of is if all the injectors are clogged?

m4ff3w wrote: Only other thing I can think of is if all the injectors are clogged?

Do a flow test. Also watch for leakers. Do you smell fuel when cranking? Drippy injectors could be flooding the cylinders. Try starting with the pedal to the floor to clear flood. Or run it on carb cleaner long enough to clear it out*

• Not responsible for lost eyebrows.

12V on both sides of the injectors when any one is unplugged? Or just one injector? The injectors get +12V all the time, and the ECU grounds them to squirt. But, if you hear/feel them clicking, it would seem that they are working.

Check for flow, triple check all grounds, especially the ones on the head & manifold. You've got the pump running, you've got reasonable pressure - the injectors are about the only thing left on the fault tree.

Guess what happens if you remove the fuel rail to check for flow, but forget to remove the spark plugs, coils, or connectors on the coils?

m4ff3w wrote: Guess what happens if you remove the fuel rail to check for flow, but forget to remove the spark plugs, coils, or connectors on the coils?

I reiterate my lack of responsibility for lost eyebrows or other body parts.

Unfortunately the injectors popped out of the rail spraying fuel everywhere which ignition from w/in the cylinder and quickly spread.

No damage done, fire extinguished easily.

Sounds exciting! That reminds me that I really need to pick up a fire extinguisher to keep in the garage this weekend.

I picked up an updated style fuel rail and another set of injectors @ PickNPull.

I was able to verify fuel out of the injectors.

Car still doesn't start though. Even on a full battery it seems to be cranking very slow. My inductive timing light won't even pick up an RPM signal even though I can see it sparking.

If you now have fuel, air, and spark but the engine won't fire off the timing is way off. I would double check the timing belt (if it has one) and any sort of cam or crank positioning sensors.

The slow cranking could be from frayed wiring down to the starter, bad battery cables, etc.

r u still having issues?