I have just been informed there will be a SCCA Rallycross about 45 minutes from me.
What do I really need to know other than autocross and dirt.
How hard is it on the cars? Would I be better off buying a beater for this?
My only current options are the Crown Vic I just bought, or the Lemons Civic. I don't want to drive a FWD, I also don't want to destroy the CV.
Talk to me.
Really depends on the course. Smooth grass fields are not hard on cars. Other venues are bumpy and wavy and hard on suspensions. Other venues get rutted and can be hard on street tires. Our other venue is all gravel so hard on rocker panel paint :)
Beater is ok, but if it's a true beater it'll break and that sucks. Something in good mechanical condition but maybe crappy cosmetic/interior condition is what you're looking for. You've been around here long enough to know what specific cars are "most suggested" I think, lol.
But really, how hard you are on your car is really dependent on how hard you drive it
irish44j wrote:
But really, how hard you are on your car is really dependent on how hard you drive it
This is very true. On a course where FTD was a little under 2 minutes, I once pulled a full 10 seconds off my previous run by simply saying "berkeley it, I don't care if this gets home via AAA" That difference in attitude can make a big difference in how much you beat up the car.
I've never pedaled a car at rally cross
Break the improve upon the weak points and tuck and protect what needs it
FYI - Your P71 Vic has a lifted springs compared to a regular one. I'd run it. Hard
In reply to Javelin:
It looks like the surface is fairly smooth grass. I should be able to lay eyes on the field next week. If that's the case, the P71 is what I'll use.
Now I need a set of 17" A/T tires.
I've got two sets of tires that fit the P71. Which tread would be better.
The Eagle RS-As are pretty old. The HTR Z IIIs are new.
I'm sure both will suck, but I'm not buying tires for what may be a one time event.
The RS-A's. I have ahem "personal experience" with those off road, they are pretty decent.
In reply to Toyman01:
Whichever has the stiffer sidewall
I rallycrossed a P71 on a short tight course once.
If it has a center console, you're golden. The one I drove was a column shift car and I had absolutely nothing to brace myself against in left hand turns. My right leg kept swinging out to find a center console that just wasn't there and the bench seat has all of the lateral support of an unpopular leader.
Yes, I found rallycrossing a P71 on a short course easier to do than rallycrossing a Mustang on a wide open course. Make of that what you will...
I'd use the tire that has the stiffer sidewall, which is likely the RS-A. The HTR-Z is pretty soft based on my experience.
The RS-As will definitely be the better tire. Probably stiffer and the tread pattern is better for packed dirt. If it's muddy or anything though, you'll be pretty screwed on either tire.
NGTD
UltraDork
6/17/16 10:26 p.m.
irish44j pretty much summed it up. I have driven cars home from rally-X with no exhaust system and other busted stuff, but it really does depend on the venue and the driver. The location I run at, ruts up really bad and as a result it tends to be hard on cars.
Grass fields usually turn to ruts that demount tires.
captdownshift wrote:
I've never pedaled a car at rally cross
Break the improve upon the weak points and tuck and protect what needs it
You can only do that in Mod, though. In Stock and Prepared you just drive smooth and conservative. Most breakage comes from doing dumb things like going full power at full steering lock, or diving in across ruts with the steering turned heavily, stuff like that. Stuff you wouldn't be doing if you weren't overdriving the course.
I have a front drive rule, never turn the steering more than 1/2 turn under power, if the steering has to be wound tighter than that, unwind it before adding power. And really, if you have the steering turned that much, you're not rotating, you are plowing, adding power at that point will probably just make things a lot worse...
So get whatever, make sure it's in good mechanical shape (not a "beater", a beater is a car you abuse until it stops moving, you want to maintain it like a racing vehicle so it DOESN'T break for stupid reasons), and just drive it.
TL;DR: Car is fine. Practice with many entry of event.
That FWD steering idea also works in ice racing.
I always waited until the wheels were nearly straight ahead before applying power.
In reply to Knurled:
I agree with your rules, in general that's how I drive regardless as if you over drive the friction circle you're just scrubbing off time.
NGTD
UltraDork
6/19/16 3:22 p.m.
Oh and just to encourage bad behaviour (it's not me, but I was there):
I was going to start a new thread to ask a question, but this isn't terribly old.
What class does the P71 fall into? Still considered stock as it "came that way" or prepared because it's not a regular vic?
In reply to RevRico:
Stock RWD. SR
The car is as built, by Ford.
I'll take some pictures of the p71 at rallyx nationals tomorrow. It is awesome to watch.
In reply to EvanB:
Our next rallyx is the 16th. I'm seriously thinking about driving the P71 instead of the Civic. RWD is so much more fun in the dirt.
Spray plastidip on the rockers and sides to protect paint.