What tools?

I believe they do, Harbor Freight.

always been a little leary of hand tools from HF. The few I have bought, didn't last long.. including on 1/2 breaker bar that twisted off the first time I used it

Really?!?!!! The 1/2" breaker bar I got from HF only failed after I put a 4 foot long pipe on it as an extension and then stood on the end of the pipe... and I'm 350 lbs. Even then, the shaft of the breaker bar broke, not the flex head.

BTW, I never did get that hub nut off the Merkur... guess I'll wait until the wheel bearings actually begin to make noise before I try again.

I used a half inch HF breaker bar to take apart the entire MX3 it seems like. Still going strong.

Personal experience (and yours may vary) tells me that the HF stuff i buy is at least as strong as the Craftsman stuff i've bought. (Not that that's saying much)

92CelicaHalfTrac wrote: Personal experience (and yours may vary) tells me that the HF stuff i buy is at least as strong as the Craftsman stuff i've bought. (Not that that's saying much)

But that Craftsman stuff has the lifetime warranty. Does HF? (serious question here, I really don't know)

mtn wrote:

92CelicaHalfTrac wrote: Personal experience (and yours may vary) tells me that the HF stuff i buy is at least as strong as the Craftsman stuff i've bought. (Not that that's saying much)

But that Craftsman stuff has the lifetime warranty. Does HF? (serious question here, I really don't know)

HF hand tools have a lifetime warranty, yes. At leas the pittsburgh brand does for sure. I think there was one other brand they sold that does as well.

pinchvalve wrote: The colors help identify a gay mechanic.

In reply to ls1fiero:

I've been stranded by that hose, too.

Other tools for a Saab 900:

--10, 12 & 13 mm stubbies --7 mm nut driver for hose clamps --Multi-bit quarter-inch bit driver -- full of Torx bits, of course --Bentley manual

--Several small (4- or 5-inch by 1.5-inch by 1/2- to 5/8-inch-thick) blocks of hardwood (or plastic) to use under the upper a-arm, in case you need to work on/around the spindles. If you can't shim the a-arm to relieve spring pressure, then you can't work on the spindle/associated parts or axles.

--Spare spark plug to quickly check for spark in case she dies

If you are paranoid, keep a spare ignition control module in the car. (Part info for junkyarding: http://www.eeuroparts.com/Main/PartDetail.aspx?id=3501921). You could also buy a 16V Turbo distributor and its associated wiring from the junkyard, then fashion a connector so that, if your car's crank-mounted Hall sensor fails, you can disconnect it, install the Turbo dist., which has the Hall sensor inside it, then drive away. Pack the dist. very well so you don't bustify the fragile plug; store in spare tire space in trunk.

If the alternator bounces around a lot, it could eventually break the ground wire, stranding you (no battery light warning). Replace the bushings on the alt. and its mounting bracket; rubber bushings only -- no polyurethane aftermarket. Best to search a forum prior to tackling this job -- it's a bit weird due to proximity to firewall.

darkbuddha wrote: Really?!?!!! The 1/2" breaker bar I got from HF only failed after I put a 4 foot long pipe on it as an extension and then stood on the end of the pipe... and I'm 350 lbs. Even then, the shaft of the breaker bar broke, not the flex head. BTW, I never did get that hub nut off the Merkur... guess I'll wait until the wheel bearings actually begin to make noise before I try again.

two comments, potentially of value:

1. i recently bought a Pittsburg brand 1/2" drive breaker bar at HF. it is quite heavy, the chrome plating is very nice, and the pin in the drive end is supported better than any breaker bar i've ever seen before. i used it to get the front axle nuts off our '03 odyssey at 190k miles and 9 michigan winters.

2. honda rules for fastener coating selection. see the last sentence of point number 1 above.

pinchvalve wrote: I just bought this: for $150 at Lowes. 200psi, 15 gallon, plenty to run any wrench or nailer that I have. Occasional grinding is also possible. I am also a fan of these suckers for manual wrenching: The colors help identify size in a crowded toolbox.

are those pittsburgh pro tools any good? just found a 301 pc set of wrenches/sockets/ratchets/misc for 180 bucks.

I am trying to buy a complete Turbo parts car. Of course if I do it will need the same exact stuff my car does. The evil thought of a higher boost turbo conversion makes me happy.

darkbuddha wrote: Really?!?!!! The 1/2" breaker bar I got from HF only failed after I put a 4 foot long pipe on it as an extension and then stood on the end of the pipe... and I'm 350 lbs. Even then, the shaft of the breaker bar broke, not the flex head. BTW, I never did get that hub nut off the Merkur... guess I'll wait until the wheel bearings actually begin to make noise before I try again.

The hub nut removal is one of the hardest jobs to do do on the Merkur, bar none. I took used a craftsman breaker with a 4 ft cheater pipe and it was still a PITA to get loose. Torquing them back on was just as bad, something north of 200#-ft of torque.