Which E36M3?

Assumptions:

• I can't afford a LTW

• Manual transmission required

• Sunroof delete is desirable, but won't be a deal breaker

• Coupe preferred - I've already had a 4-door e36 (non-M)

• Want a low mileage car as close to stock as possible

Is there a particular year, option package or color that stands out as being most desirable? I'm thinking Dakar Yellow '95 with OBD-1 might be worth looking for, but I dunno.

I'll probably buy the best car I can find for around $10k, but don't want to slap my forehead afterwards! It will be a daily driver/autocross car with (maybe) HPDE in the future, but always street legal and no more than mildly modified.

CL, Ebay, Autotrader, and Bimmerforums are your friends

You should be able to find a M3 out there what would suit your needs.

I still maintain the E36 325is makes the best all rounder . . . IMHO

Sure the M3 makes more power and torque EVERYWHERE in the rev range and the 328is make more tq (no LSD from the factory), but a well set up 325is makes a fun steed . . .

• H&R/Eibach Springs
• Koni/Blistein M3 Struts and Shocks
• Stock M3 bars (or a front bar from 325is (larger than M3 variant))
• M3 Cams + software = ~200whp
• Usual maintenance items

~$6500 (car included)

Take the rest and spend it on tightening the nut behind the wheel.

You'll have a capable Autoxer/DD, 2/3s the M3, and pocket change for other fun E36M3 (pun intended).

Strike_Zero wrote: I still maintain the E36 325is makes the best all rounder . . . IMHO Sure the M3 makes more power and torque EVERYWHERE in the rev range and the 328is make more tq (no LSD from the factory), but a well set up 325is makes a fun steed . . .

I'm confused - you say the 325is makes a better all-rounder, but then you go on to say that the M3 is a better car, and to put a bunch of M3 parts on the 325 to make it 2/3rds the car the M3 is.

What are the advantages to the 325, then, other than price, that make it a better all around car? Or, conversely, where does the M3 fail?

A 97+ E36 M3 has the rear subframe reinforcements, the stronger 3.2L S52 (96+) and the same awsomeness. You will hear people say you need OBDI to mod it but its just not true any more.

It has staggared size wheels and you need to square it to the wider 8.5 inch to cut understeer and save $$ on tires (so you can rotate). I have a longer list of must-dos but they are subjective so I'll save them for the "I got an M3, now what?" thread :)

Happy hunting.

I've owned two and loved both dearly. Both were '95 models, one was Mugello Red and the other was Hellrot Red. From what I recall, Mugello was a relatively rare color only offered on very early '95's.

One place to check for cars for sale, in addition to the usual places, is: http://www.roadfly.com/bmw/classifieds/cars/listads.php?cat=207

Here are some supposed production numbers:
1994: 2953 (sold as MY 1995)
1995: 5806 (5763 coupes [1311 automatic], 43 lightweights)
1996: 3175 (3096 coupes [299 automatic], 79 lightweights)
1997: 7940 (4535 sedans, 3405 coupes)
1998: 8762 (3225 sedans, 2876 convertibles, 2661 coupes)
1999: 6557 (3222 coupes, 3335 convertibles)

In reply to ReverendDexter:

Having own both a E36 325is and M3 (99), I found the 325is much more fun for dual duty and lower cost for virtually the same kinda fun

Even in stock for stock form, the 325is was always 2/3 the M3 (that last 1/3 being the motor and factory suspension bits).

I guess I'm looking at it as, if you buy springs, struts, and shocks, they are the virtually same (minus the front bar attachment points on the 325is). Same goes for wheels and tires. . . I used all M3 suspension bits (OEM and aftermarket) on the 325is, wheels and tires included.

No question the 3.2 is more powerful than the 2.5. It also has the reinforced areas mentioned by GPS (again this available aftermarket).

If you are just buying a E36 and keeping it stock . . . M3 hands down. But I don't see or think that is going to happen . . .

You can't go wrong with either one, as they are the same chassis. It's some suspension bits and the jewel of an engine that makes them different.

I'm still giggling at the thread title.

Giant Purple Snorklewacker wrote: A 97+ E36 M3 has the rear subframe reinforcements, the stronger 3.2L S52 (96+) and the same awsomeness. You will hear people say you need OBDI to mod it but its just not true any more. It has staggared size wheels and you need to square it to the wider 8.5 inch to cut understeer and save $$ on tires (so you can rotate). I have a longer list of must-dos but they are subjective so I'll save them for the "I got an M3, now what?" thread :) Happy hunting.

WalterJ - that's the type of info I'm looking for. For example - I thought all the M3s had the subframe reinforcement, and thanks for the heads-up on OBD-1 vs 2. As for squaring the wheels, that's on the agenda but I might run it in CS (2010 Solo rules) next year while gearing up for STU or BSP in '11.

Keep it coming

You can get M3's for less than it would cost to bring a (clean) 325is up to the spec mentioned above. I paid about $5k for mine (well repaired salvage title), put a few hundred into misc deferred maintenance, and have since put 20k miles on it trouble free. Resale will likely always be better with a (clean title) salvage M3....

Nathan

We are currently on the cutting edge of building our sub$1000 GRM challenge09 e36 328i into a $2000ish M3! Days before we left for the challenge, our Craigslist E36 Michigan connection offered us a 95m3 complete rearend for $400 since our 328 could really use an LSD rearend. Then he said the complete rolled car for $2500, but we just didnt have any time to aquire either. The motor sounded great as well. Upon return from Florida we were then offered trading our 328 motor/rearend +$1500 cash for the complete car. No time was wasted in this decision. The 95 tub is for sale as is the auto trans it came with.