JmfnB
JmfnB MegaDork
11/15/18 1:44 p.m.

So the idea was make a plan, stick with the plan, finish the plan, drive the car.

Things didn't go as planned.

After realizing that the Blazer would need $800 more to get it to where I need it and even after that it would still be a truck I have decided the Plan B Answer was better.

Now here is my dilemma: I can drive 4 hours to load up a ragged, rusty, 1990 with D2 coilovers, and an aftermarket steering wheel or for the same money drive 4 hours for a nearly rust free 1999 that has an automatic. I can buy all the manual trans swap parts should I want to swap it from a car that I already know.

Would you rather? Michael Jacksons Dirty Diana or Beastie Boys Slow and Low?

Professor_Brap
Professor_Brap HalfDork
11/15/18 1:46 p.m.

What are you calling nearly rust free in comparison to the rusty 90. 

cmcgregor
cmcgregor Dork
11/15/18 1:46 p.m.

Nearly rust free '99, hands down. Manual transmissions are fairly cheap, rust is a pain in the ass, and parts from the '99 are going to be easier to sell. 

Jerry From LA
Jerry From LA SuperDork
11/15/18 1:50 p.m.

Rust-free '99.

Dead_Sled
Dead_Sled Reader
11/15/18 1:51 p.m.

Personally I'm done with buying rusty E36 M3, I'd go with the cleaner car, especially if I planned to be trying to remove things like nuts and bolts and bodies.  Assuming this is getting "something" grafted onto it I'd never put all that time and effort into something that's already crusty, but I tend to mentally write cars off once they get rusty.

JmfnB
JmfnB MegaDork
11/15/18 1:57 p.m.

In reply to Professor_Brap :

A former Atlanta transplant with 5 years but no winters. I have asked for underbody photos.

Professor_Brap
Professor_Brap HalfDork
11/15/18 2:01 p.m.

Id say the 99 also, but if it has rust to, pass on both. 

Indy-Guy
Indy-Guy UltraDork
11/15/18 4:01 p.m.

I effing HATE rust. It'd should be obvious what my answer is.

STM317
STM317 SuperDork
11/15/18 4:23 p.m.

The one with less rust. Unless you'll be cutting things up anyway (this is GRM) and the rust is someplace that's going to get hacked off.

Rodan
Rodan HalfDork
11/15/18 4:24 p.m.

Rust free '99...

Trans swap is easy, did it a year ago on my '99.  Only one catch:  the auto and manuals have different ECUs, so factor that into your swap.

 

sleepyhead
sleepyhead Dork
11/15/18 5:04 p.m.

it's a lot easier to make power out of the gate in the NB motor.  the NA with the 1.6 means an uphill battle to bring it up to the spec of the NB car... and you've got to do that at the same time as dealing with rust.

so, '99 rust free

every converted automatic is a win for the rest of us

TheRX7Project
TheRX7Project Reader
11/15/18 5:59 p.m.

If there's one thing I've figured out from my countless unfinished projects, it's that fixing nuts and bolts are a lot easier than fixing rot.

APEowner
APEowner Dork
11/15/18 6:19 p.m.

I wouldn't drive anywhere for a rusty Miata.

JmfnB
JmfnB MegaDork
11/16/18 12:16 a.m.
APEowner said:

I wouldn't drive anywhere for a rusty Miata.

New Mexico and Michigan have exceptionally different standards on that. Here if you want a $1000 Miata you may have to deal with rust.

JmfnB
JmfnB MegaDork
11/16/18 12:17 a.m.
TheRX7Project said:

If there's one thing I've figured out from my countless unfinished projects, it's that fixing nuts and bolts are a lot easier than fixing rot.

I resemble that remark.

JmfnB
JmfnB MegaDork
11/16/18 12:18 a.m.
STM317 said:

The one with less rust. Unless you'll be cutting things up anyway (this is GRM) and the rust is someplace that's going to get hacked off.

It IS being hacked up. but rust free pieces may be worth something here.

JmfnB
JmfnB MegaDork
11/16/18 12:22 a.m.
Rodan said:

Rust free '99...

Trans swap is easy, did it a year ago on my '99.  Only one catch:  the auto and manuals have different ECUs, so factor that into your swap.

 

This will likely be my answer. 

Does anyone know if there is a difference in tune between the two? Fatter/leaner? Lower rpm fuel cutoff? Anything that may make power added easier or harder?

Rodan
Rodan HalfDork
11/16/18 7:34 a.m.

Not sure about differences in tune, but you will need to do a bit of wiring to get the speedo  and cruise to work, if needed.  I swapped ECUs, since I had a manual parts car.  I think the auto ECU may also expect some information from the trans that may cause issues.  I still get a CEL every week or so because the manual ECU expects to see a clutch switch signal, and that wiring didn't exist in the auto car.  Someday I'll get around to dealing with that.

There's a link to wiring info in my "Miata Experience" thread in Build Threads.  I'll try to dig that up and post it here...

Rodan
Rodan HalfDork
11/16/18 7:47 a.m.

Miata auto to manual swap info:

Miata.net wiki page on the subject:  Miata Wiki manual swap info

Thread on MT.net specifically on NB wiring:  MT.net manual swap thread

EvanB
EvanB MegaDork
11/16/18 7:54 a.m.
JmfnB said:
Rodan said:

Rust free '99...

Trans swap is easy, did it a year ago on my '99.  Only one catch:  the auto and manuals have different ECUs, so factor that into your swap.

 

This will likely be my answer. 

Does anyone know if there is a difference in tune between the two? Fatter/leaner? Lower rpm fuel cutoff? Anything that may make power added easier or harder?

I have a spare 04 Mazdaspeed ECU laying around, I don't know if that would work with the NA engine or not?

Rodan
Rodan HalfDork
11/16/18 8:07 a.m.

1999-2000 manual ecu $100:  eBay 1999 Miata manual ecu

JmfnB
JmfnB MegaDork
11/16/18 1:45 p.m.

Option three is actually where I will go. It's just as many miles, less money and will come to me disassembled from a fellow GRMer.

Poll winner?

Kenny Rogers The Gambler.

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