01 Nissan Frontier common problems?

I think I found a perfect truck.  I was looking for an AWD Chevy/GMC full size van, but the crack-smoking prices are killing me.  So I started looking for a compact pickup.  My go-to would be Colorado/Canyon or Ranger, simply because a similar Taco or Frontier would be twice the mileage for the same money.  Not that high mileage is bad, there is just double the chance for abuse and poor maintenance with something like a Toyota that holds its value.

So I happened upon an 01 Frontier with 77k, V6, Manual, 4x4, and clean title for $3500 and the ad said it needs shocks and muffler but call first to discuss.  Turns out it has very light front damage; plastic bumper cover cracked, and the hood latches but the upper rad support is buckled up about 1/2".  The "needs shocks" part refers to a rusted bolt that his neighbor rounded the head off on one shock while trying to help.

He is a heck of a guy.  We ended up BSing for about an hour about women and business.  Very straight forward and seemed to be honest.  He even sent me a picture of the title with his name and showing he bought it new.  I can check out the front body work and anything mechanical, but wondered if there was internet myth that says something like "01-03 Frontiers have terrible head gaskets," or "Those manual transmissions are terrible," or "the rear axle likes to explode."

What do I need to know about an 01 Frontier V6 5 speed 4x4 with 77k before I stupidly give the guy a whopping $3500 for it?

Posting the link here because I trust y'all not to buy it out from under me :)  Linkydink

I like these but have never owned one. Just don't expect better MPG than a full sized truck. 

EPA rates this at 15/16/17.  Same year F150 4x4 V8 manual rated at 13/14/17

Best body style for the Frontier! Can't help you with info, but if I could find the same truck, but a crew cab long bed I'd be all over it. 

Curtis said:

I think I found a perfect truck.  I was looking for an AWD Chevy/GMC full size van, but the crack-smoking prices are killing me.  So I started looking for a compact pickup.  My go-to would be Colorado/Canyon or Ranger, simply because a similar Taco or Frontier would be twice the mileage for the same money.  Not that high mileage is bad, there is just double the chance for abuse and poor maintenance with something like a Toyota that holds its value.

So I happened upon an 01 Frontier with 77k, V6, Manual, 4x4, and clean title for $3500 and the ad said it needs shocks and muffler but call first to discuss.  Turns out it has very light front damage; plastic bumper cover cracked, and the hood latches but the upper rad support is buckled up about 1/2".  The "needs shocks" part refers to a rusted bolt that his neighbor rounded the head off on one shock while trying to help.

He is a heck of a guy.  We ended up BSing for about an hour about women and business.  Very straight forward and seemed to be honest.  He even sent me a picture of the title with his name and showing he bought it new.  I can check out the front body work and anything mechanical, but wondered if there was internet myth that says something like "01-03 Frontiers have terrible head gaskets," or "Those manual transmissions are terrible," or "the rear axle likes to explode."

What do I need to know about an 01 Frontier V6 5 speed 4x4 with 77k before I stupidly give the guy a whopping $3500 for it?

Posting the link here because I trust y'all not to buy it out from under me :)  Linkydink

The d21 hardbody was basically a copy of the similar vintage toyota pickups, and the d22 frontier was almost exactly the same underneath.  The motors are pretty solid if not very powerful or efficient (check for timing belt changes).  trans is solid and the axles are some of the toughest you'll find in any era nissan pickup (h233b rear and 4cyl fronts were r180 and v6 got the r200a).  limited slips and 3.90/4.10 gears were pretty common as well.  probably the weak link is the auto locking hubs up front but they're easily replaced with a set of warn manual hubs.  

The v6 automagics have a radiator/trans cooler cross contamination problem which can kill the transmission. But that may only be the D40s...

Plus, you're looking at a manual. 

I've had my D40 for a couple months now and I still totally love it. :)

Here's an old GRM thread where some guy who thinks he's an expert (I'll leave you to decide that) goes on and on about being sure to avoid the auto trans. 

Another thread sighting t-belt changes and comment of lower intake gasket failure on 3.3L engine. 

Change the timing belt, that's about it. They don't drive great, but they're tough to kill.

Avoid the supercharged models, not worth the hassle of premium fuel and reliability for the power increase.

Almost all vg33 truck will have a knock sensor code (doesn't set a light) that is a pain to change.

Here in the rust belt it's very common to see broken rear leaf springs. The front torsion bars can break too. A co-worker had his break and couldn't find replacements - ended up getting a set intended for lifting the truck and setting them at stock height.

Ignore all advice based on the D40/2005+ trucks, totally different vehicle.

I think the only thing at this point preventing me from pulling the trigger is if I get down there and notice that the front body work is more than I would care to tackle.  But seriously... $3500?  Hard to pass up.  Once I title it up here I have 30 days to get it inspected, so the shocks and muffler would be top priority.  They don't care as much about body work as long as its safe.

Thanks for the info.  Keep it coming if there is more.

John Welsh said:

Here's an old GRM thread where some guy who thinks he's an expert (I'll leave you to decide that) goes on and on about being sure to avoid the auto trans. 

Another thread sighting t-belt changes and comment of lower intake gasket failure on 3.3L engine. 

I remember that guy.  He is wise about the RE automatics.  Brilliant man.  Met him once.

I have a 2000 crew cab with the VG33 auto 4X2. 178k miles and 16-18mpg. I got lucky finding one in MI that spent most of it's life in the south west, very clean.

Other than basic maintenance (oil and, brakes, wheel bearings, timing belt) I had to swap the TPS sensor. The trans controls go bonkers when the TPS sensor goes. 

I have the knock sensor code, I'll get to it someday. Half the plugs are a pain to change so I haven't yet. Exhaust manifolds are prone to cracking but the design is horrible and stainless headers are cheap. Xterras, Pathfinders, and QX4 share a ton of parts. Easy pickin at the yard. 

Get it!

I had an 01 xterra for a little while. just a good all-around rugid vehicle, not fast by any means but could go about anywhere. They also hold there value like the toyota's do, mine had 265,000 miles on it and I ended up selling it for $2600 which i thought was crazy high.

In reply to akamcfly :

That's an early D40 problem. By 2010, that was solved. I've got over 100K on mine and good as new. 

Update:  Didn't buy it.  It was a nice truck, but two things caught my eye.  The front end damage wasn't bad, but more than I'd like to tackle.  The second thing was that the PS high pressure hose had rusted through and blew while I was test driving it.  Looking under the truck to see how tough it would be to replace (considerable effort as it would have involved setting the AC compressor and alternator aside) I also noticed just a wee bit more rust than I wanted to see.  It wasn't bad, but more than a 77k mile truck should have.

But what a nice road trip with a friend, and the seller was awesome.  He sold it two hours later to a guy who took it as-is.

I'm late to the party but allegedly the steering doesn't take well to any kind of lift and/or bigger tires. I guess the angles between the tie rods and the center link get wonky and stuff starts breaking/wearing out very quickly. Supposed to be fine if you leave it stock. 

thatsnowinnebago said:

I'm late to the party but allegedly the steering doesn't take well to any kind of lift and/or bigger tires. I guess the angles between the tie rods and the center link get wonky and stuff starts breaking/wearing out very quickly. Supposed to be fine if you leave it stock. 

On the d40 it's the upper control arms contacting the upper strut buckets when you top out. Actually, that's how you top out with much more than 2" of front lift.

I did just sell my truck... well, we agreed on a price and he gave me a deposit and then he'll get me the rest on Friday (payday)

So now I need to find me a new truck by Friday.

Compact, V6, 4x4, prefer manual.  Budget is $6k

Hmmm... possibility

In reply to Curtis :

That seems like a pretty good deal, assuming the frame rust isn't too bad. Its crazy how well Tacos hold their value. 

thatsnowinnebago said:

In reply to Curtis :

That seems like a pretty good deal, assuming the frame rust isn't too bad. Its crazy how well Tacos hold their value. 

Rust holes in frame, frame has been coated, master or slave cylinder problem??   Sounds a bit overpriced to my cheap ass.   Be sure and take a hammer and an awl to inspect the frame.    

I'm not sure he's describing rust holes in the frame.  If you look at the picture of the frame, it looks like evenly spaced go-fast holes... like the factory designed it that way.  But you're right, the way he phrases it, it might be rust holes.

Found this Ranger, too. I wee bit of crack smoking on the price, though.

KBB puts it at about $6300 PPV, but there are plenty of extras on it.  One thing I would have to change is the "custom gibson side exhaust" which I interpret to be "white trash V6 drone"

Here is the frame photo of the Taco.  They don't look like rust holes, but he may be talking about other rust holes.