3d printers

Who has a 3d printer? Do you print in ABS or PLA or both? I'm trying to decide if going with a heated build platform (and the extra cost) is worth it. So far, I think the ability to print both is worth the added cost.

I think that will be our Christmas present this year to the kids/for the family. My kids are home schooled and I think I could integrate the printer into many math/science lessons.

It is a much better idea than a PS4 or Xbox One.

Plus, it is easier to make a spendy purchase if it is for the kiddos. They are both excited about the possibility.

How do they work in the house? Thats what im confused about. Ive got a lot of stuff to make of ibhad one

JG has one IIRC.

Yes, he does.....and still won't respond to my plea to print some rabbit-shaped door pulls for my car.

I like the idea of using it for education stuff like that. Fabrication? Motomoron has the ultimate rant:
http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/off-topic-discussion/mebotics-multifactory-multifunction-automated-home-machining/69636/page1/

Who's up for a field trip to JG's house?

We've got a Solidoodle as well, same thing that JG does. We haven't managed to get it working accurately yet, there are some calibration issues and it looks as if it's scaling a bit off on one axis.

In the house I'd imagine it stinks something awful. I'm thinking shrinky-dinks in the oven sort of awful. The kind where you can almost feel the cancer taking root.

I don't own one but I've thrown enough plastic in a fire to know you should do that E36 M3 in a well ventilated area.

In reply to JoeyM:

If you want them out of plastic, I could probably get some made for you. I used to work in a rapid prototyping lab at my university and have some connects. Do you have a CAD model?

That one of the problems I've heard with that machine. The parts I've seen coming out of one that's been through troubleshooting are pretty good for a less-than-$1000 machine.

I'm saving my pennies for a MakerBot Replicator 2X. One of my wife's online friends makes stuff with hers and puts it on Etsy. Pretty nice quality for something pretty much straight out of the machine.

fritzsch wrote: In reply to JoeyM: If you want them out of plastic, I could probably get some made for you. I used to work in a rapid prototyping lab at my university and have some connects. Do you have a CAD model?

No, but am I correct that I can use google sketch up to make a rendering? What I'm looking for is the two halves of the old datsun hood ornament.

The hood ornament would not be appropriate for my car (I'm trying to mimic the Type 11/Type 12 (i.e. 1932) and the rabbit hood ornament didn't go into use until 1934 IIRC. The door pulls would be a way, however, to show that I'm aware of the early logos and history.

If it does happen, I think we will end up with a Makibox. It looks pretty promising. The build volume is 150x110x90, on the small side, but the price is right ($200/300 - depending on heated platform or not)

Giant Purple Snorklewacker wrote: In the house I'd imagine it stinks something awful. I'm thinking shrinky-dinks in the oven sort of awful. The kind where you can almost feel the cancer taking root. I don't own one but I've thrown enough plastic in a fire to know you should do that E36 M3 in a well ventilated area.

You're not burning the plastic, only heating it. There's no significant smell.

Yeah, I have a 6" Solidoodle (That's what SHE said). Keith got the 8" one, which I'll probably upgrade to at some point in the near future.

ABS and PLA both work great. I normally use ABS because it melts at a slightly higher temperature and has a qicker cooling curve. So once the part is done it releases from the deck quicker.

Whatever kind you get, I must absolutely recommend you get one with a heated bed. DO NOT get one without one. Your frustration will increase exponentially.

Joey: You have a 3D model of the handles?

Keith: Is it scaling wrong or indexing wrong?Like, are the parts too long or too short, but otherwise built properly? Or are you getting reverse stairsteps and weird flowover issues?

Scaling issues are usually calibration. It can also be your slicer not getting along with your 3D modeling program.

Indexing problems are, 9 times out of 10, a belt drive that slipped on the shaft at some point. Easy fix They have a video on how to do it.

How many fingertip burns you have yet? The birds used to nip at m fingertips when they were playing,now they start playing and when they see my fried fingers they just gently hold them in their beaks and look at me in a pathetic way.

jg

In reply to JoeyM:

Can't quote very well in that post, but yeah, I'd love to try. Send a few digital files and I'll see what I can do wih there. Sometimes you have to fake stuff so it combines in ways with ether stuff automatically.

jg

I haven't been playing with it, it's Brandon's toy and he hasn't had enough time to get it running. But circles are ovals, everything's distorted in one direction. We've also had some trouble with larger parts peeling up and not staying flat.

Keith Tanner wrote: I haven't been playing with it, it's Brandon's toy and he hasn't had enough time to get it running. But circles are ovals, everything's distorted in one direction. Typically the result of one of the drive spindles coming loose. There's a Solidoodle factory video that addresses this. We've also had some trouble with larger parts peeling up and not staying flat. Increase the bed heat. Mine runs 202º to 210º depending on the shape of the pieces. Some o their recommendations are waaaaay off.

JG Pasterjak wrote: In reply to JoeyM: Can't quote very well in that post, but yeah, I'd love to try. Send a few digital files and I'll see what I can do wih there. Sometimes you have to fake stuff so it combines in ways with ether stuff automatically. jg

Awesome! It will take a couple weeks to figure out how, but I will get some 3-d models made!!

(Speaking as a designer and maker of prototype instruments who's been exposed to 3D printing since it's inception)

I'm conflicted. I've spent much of my life learning how to design, prototype, and make things manufacturable. In the research science world where I ply my trade, there's stuff that can be printed, but the vast majority requires metals, and plastics with very specific properties.

We have a guy at the lab who's doing his best to carve out a niche. He got funding to buy a makerbot, then another one that's supposedly better.

On the basis of the tolerances they can hold, repeatability, and environmental conditions the plastic can withstand, they're of essentially zero utility to me.

As a sharp friend (who happens to own an adult-size CNC machine) said:

"Makerbot? Oh yeah, those are awesome. If you want to make a ~whistle~"

In reply to JoeyM:

What is necessary is a .stl file. Google sketchup doesnt natively export .stl files but a 5 sec google search shows that there are plug-ins and other ways to turn a Sketchup model into a .stl file, so it should definitely be possible. I don't know what resolution/accuracy JG can do, but if you want professional grade parts, feel free to give me a holler and Ill see what I can do.

motomoron wrote: As a sharp friend (who happens to own an adult-size CNC machine) said: "Makerbot? Oh yeah, those are awesome. If you want to make a ~whistle~"

Attitudes like that are what's keeping new tech from really reaching its full potential. The majority of these small 3D printers are made by, and for, DIY types. They're plenty accurate for one-offs and small parts, even just as part of prototyping.

My drafting 10-12 students use a Makerbot, which makes awesome whistles (grin). And many other things. It's just fine for what students can do, and very affordable. It also makes great foundry patterns for the Metalwork class.

You can pay a LOT more (and get MUCH better quality prints), but a Makerbot or Solidoodle is perfectly fine to start with.

I found, for me, the novelty wore off pretty disappointingly quick. Tempted, though, to buy one for myself.

We use ABS at the moment, and the heated build table is definitely good. The automated build platform on the Makerbot was problematic, so I removed it and print directly on the HBT and painter's tape. It works fine enough.

I've got a Printrbot Jr that came as a kit for $400. (http://printrbot.com/) It was actually a Christmas gift last year and it took me 9 months to stop procrastinating and put it together. I enjoyed the build experience, but I was looking for a challenge so I could learn something. It took me about 15 hours or so. In terms of difficulty, I would compare it to doing the suspension on a car (ie. harder than an oil change, but easier than a clutch job... just takes longer) They no longer offer that model as a kit and I've heard the kit they offer now for $300 -the Printrbot Simple is easier to put together.

As far as your original question, so far I've been printing in PLA without a heated bed and everything is going fine. You can see my very first 3 prints here: http://www.printrbottalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=70&t=5091 (I'm madpanda on that forum as well) I would say PLA w/out heated bed is great for learning and teaching kids. It is my understanding that PLA doesn't release toxic fumes if it gets too hot and for that reason it is more compatible with printing indoors without ventilation. (Whatever the case may be, I've smelled absolutely nothing from mine)

If you are looking to teach your kids, you might want to go the kit route as you really have to learn what is going on to get it to run correctly. Plus, then you have the advantage of not being afraid to modify it. I'm thinking about adding a heated bed so I could print in ABS mostly because it would be a $65 mod and then I would have parts that are more weather resistant so I can put them on my car.

Let me know if you have any questions about Printrbots in particular.

Thanks, guys. It will take me a few weeks to get a decent STL file made, but you'll DEFINITELY hear from me.

Thank guys.

I've pretty much settled on the Makibox A6 HT. It has the heated build platform.

A long time ago in a state far away I worked at an injection molding company, so I have some experience with extrusion with various plastics (ABS, Nylon, & Delrin) but that was a really long time ago with industrial machines. We had HUGE molds and small molds (Delrin wheels for dishwasher drawers) Boy, Delrin smelled bad. ABS and Nylon, not so bad. I think they would be OK in the house.

Derick Freese wrote:

motomoron wrote: As a sharp friend (who happens to own an adult-size CNC machine) said: "Makerbot? Oh yeah, those are awesome. If you want to make a ~whistle~"

Attitudes like that are what's keeping new tech from really reaching its full potential. The majority of these small 3D printers are made by, and for, DIY types. They're plenty accurate for one-offs and small parts, even just as part of prototyping.

I agree! Makerbot and the similar units are a fine "DIY community" thing. What I don't like is that it builds support for the separation of skill and talent from designing and making stuff. When people hear I have a machine shop the first question is almost invariably "Do you have a CNC? I want to make..." as though designing the parts, making toleranced drawings, and figuring out the fixturing, operation sequence, tools selection, feeds and speeds isn't an option.

And don't give me this "You're a luddite and a knuckle-dragging troglodyte" horseE36 M3. I design and make things for a living. I've been going to the SolidWorks World conference for more a decade, and have had my work featured in the Product Design Showcase and in a Case Study on their website. I've been keeping up with the state of the rapid prototyping space, and used it quite a bit when I was an industrial designer.

I find however that problems arise when attempts are made to hammer the square peg of entry-level RP into the round hole of the real prototype product/instrument workplace.