Colt SAA will always be a weak spot for me. I appreciate the long barrels too. Also Winchester 1873's
Colt SAA will always be a weak spot for me. I appreciate the long barrels too. Also Winchester 1873's
bobzilla said:In reply to dean1484 :
when it comes to firearms in general, everyone IS correct. What works for You may not work for someone else. I was being tongue in cheek, but the 1911 is pretty, it works and its worked for over a century. None of mine are more than 10-15 years old. My Remington Model 11 on the other hand is 114 years old.... same designer. Still works.
Only because I do so enjoy stirring the pot, I would argue that the 1911 looks quite ugly next to the sleek beauty that is the P-35, aka Browning Hi-Power, both in terms of aesthetics and in the elegant simplicity of assembly. 
In reply to 1988RedT2 :
Like a swiss watch.... sure its all perfectly fitted and hand machined but it works!
barefootcyborg5000 said:In reply to 759NRNG :
That'd be me. I don't know if I'd say large caliber, but I ended up with an AR308. Lately though all my range time has been with the .50 flintlock.
my bad Shawn err Bfoot my stick of shock is a Ruger M77 7mmMag. Why are peeps telling me this is way overdone for whitetail/feral hog? the last time I squeezed the trigger on this I drained a six point in a feeding pen at right 100yds with no exit wound....the bullet had split the fence....yea it kicks like a mule, but ya know what I'm good with it rock n rool and all......have you ever shot one?
In reply to 759NRNG :
No. Most powerful I've ever shot is 30-06. Hardly noteworthy. Unless you count a 1.25oz 12ga slug. That was rough.
barefootcyborg5000 said:In reply to 759NRNG :
No. Most powerful I've ever shot is 30-06. Hardly noteworthy. Unless you count a 1.25oz 12ga slug. That was rough.
so what appeals to you primarily or do i need and go back to page 3?
In reply to 759NRNG :
Hard to say. I enjoy shooting skeet, and the flinter is a huge laugh. My .556 is fun and more capable than I'd have guessed with 10.5" barrel. I've shot that farther than I've tried my .308. I want to work up a .308 load and see how far I can stretch. Limited time and too many hobbies means slow progress though.
In reply to Vracer111 :
I've been looking at the Xten. Thanks for the post.
AnthonyGS (Forum Supporter) said:In reply to Vracer111 :
I've been looking at the Xten. Thanks for the post.
Of all the 10mm's I've had or shot, it's hands down my favorite - Like it very much.
Decided to get a precision rimfire rifle... was mulling it over last week and went for it this weekend. Been forever since I had a rimfire and it will fill a void between the .22 airguns and .308 centerfires (occasional backyard pests but mostly inexpensive trigger time practice).
Going with a Tikka T1X with 20" barrel chambered in .17Hmr. Briefly thought about the .22LR version, but I really like the .17HMR round and cost wise ammo is really a wash.... the good precision .22LR ammo cost is on par with .17HMR. You'll get better precision with a .22LR, but .17HMR gives you a flatter, longer distance, centerfire-velocity level shooting round with double the power of .22LR (but from a tiny, high explosive hitting 17-20gr bullet). Already have air rifles if want to do the cheapest, most precise backyard shooting possible.
Have a KRG Bravo chassis & accessories, Talley medium scope mounts, and DIP compensator & extended bolt already incoming for the T1X. Will be passing down the Hawke Frontier 4-20×44 scope currently on my Sig Cross to the T1X and upgrading the Sig Cross to a Primary Arms GLx 4-16×50 Athena BPR Mil scope. Seems to be the most high quality 'not expensive' choice these days, and I love the reticle and features it has. Will have more adjustment range (both elevation & windage), better glass quality, and a more informational reticle presentation (much prefer holding over to dialing in).
Also just found out Sig finally recently released a plastic M-lok handguard grip which attaches to the foregrip of the standard Cross. It's been on my radar ever since they released the Born and Raised edition which had such a thing - so that was ordered.
In reply to Vracer111 :
I can vouch for the T1X/Bravo combination, though mine is .22LR. Fantastic shooter.
I have the Mueller 8-32x mounted, which is not a high dollar scope by any means, but one of the few out there these days with a target dot reticle, which is what I wanted for rimfire bench rest competitions.
A really good alternative to the PA optics is Athlon. I have a Chronus 4.5-29 on a 6.5CM long range rifle, and have been super happy with it. I recently bought a couple of the Ares line, and they are fantastic for Chinese glass. The Ares 3-18x50 would be a good alternative to the PA, and about the same price if you can do Expert Voice. The Athlon APRS6 reticle is very good, and similar to the Athena.
3-18x50 Ares:
We recently did a bunch of optics T&E for work, and I was able to compare the Athlon Ares glass to some high end stuff - Vortex Razor, Trijicon Credo and NF NX8. The Ares was right there with all of them, and better than the NF. We also looked at a PA PLx series and it was right there as well... great glass.
In reply to Rodan :
Looks very good. Have very similar Bravo chassis setup incoming - FDE with bottom hook panel, metal adjustable buttpad assembly, thin buttpad, and upgraded aluminum knob for cheek rest.
Since I decided to hand down the Sig Cross scope to the T1X, the critera was a little different for scope choice on the Sig Cross than it would have been for the T1X. Weight is a major consideration (it's a carry gun, not a target/bench rest shooting one) along with the reticle and other features.
I was considering two other Athlons near same price point (Midas TAC 6-24X50 & Helos BTR Gen2 4-20×50), but prefer the Athena BPR reticle over the APRS3 & APRS6 reticles, the Midas wasn't an IR, and both Athlons were about 3 oz heavier than the PA GLx. The Helos would be over a 6oz increase from the Hawke Frontier currently on it. Actually changing mounting setup as well so will actually be lighter than currently is... so even with a bit heavier scope will be an overall lighter setup than the current Hawke config.
Was not interested in spending over $750-800 on a scope, so no higher glass grade levels were really an option or even looked into. The higher grade levels are also significantly heavier... loose interest quickly in scopes over 24-25oz for a carry rifle when there are decent less expensive choices which work fine and are significantly lighter. Am fine with midgrade optics, the Frontier H7 line of Hawke glass is good enough for me without breaking the bank - an upgrade to the PA GLx line of glass for just a little more cost is fine with me.
What offset mount for the reddot is that on the AR? I'm looking to do similar with my M1A. Will be running the PA SLx 3X microprism with a Holosun LS117G rifle laser in front on the Sadlak picatinny rail and would like to run the RMR on an offset mount off to side of laser, just in front of the bolt away from the ejecting brass. Barely any room though, just a couple of pic slots the laser hangs over - something really low profile might work. I don't think the side mount PA has for the SLx microprisms would work as the mounting location would put it right in the ejecting brass area.
Vracer111 said:What offset mount for the reddot is that on the AR?
That is just a really cheap Weaver offset rail with a Holosun pic rail mount. It barely clears the power adjustment ring on the optic, but you should be good mounting it forward of a prismatic if the laser is out on the forend. If they're both on the receiver, you'll likely run out of rail.
I actually prefer the offset red dot further forward, but wasn't possible with this setup.
Looking to mount everything on the Sadlak rail - only rail it has being a standard M1A and I want it on the bore axis. The RMR is where the SLx 3X prism site base will be, and it may be possible to shift the laser back 1 slot. So will have either the front 2 or 3 slots right underneath the laser for mounting. Will need to remove the boss for the laser cap on bottom for clearance, but with the boss removed there will be plenty of room it seems from looking over a few the mounts like the one you linked. They are about same thickness as the head of the pic rail and the gap below the laser is noticeably larger than that, so there will be clearance.
The Weaver mount might work for you...
It mounts centered on a pic groove, and the screw comes all the way out so it can slide on from the end of the rail.
I really wish more companies would post dimensional drawings of this stuff... it would save a lot of time and money.
Picked up the T1X yesterday and immediately took off factory stock and put everything I got for it on it. Just this afternoon got in cheek piece cushion foam from Anarchy Outdoors and put it on the T1X and Sig Cross. Only thing haven't done on the T1X is install the lighter trigger spring, will shoot it first and get feel for it before doing so.
In reply to Vracer111 :
Looks good... and kinda familiar... 
Definitely try the stock trigger first. It's pretty good, though not in the category of an aftermarket centerfire bolt trigger like Triggertech. I haven't felt the need to change mine.
In reply to Vracer111 :
Nice. Tikka triggers adjust down to about 2 pounds.
Farthest shots I've ever taken today. And I wasn't using glass. But my little 10.5" 5.56 kept the PMC bronze on a 18" board at 300y Considering the board didn't look much bigger than the red dot, I'll take it. Shooting clays at 100y is east from a rest. Not so much with the 22. Little bro got a S&W AR22 out for the first time today too, so that was fun. Didn't take the 308, so I haven't tried my loads yet. Then it started raining so we left.
Thread needs a bump, so here's a couple of pics of 20 years of AR evolution just for fun.
~2001 - one stamp, Trijicon Reflex, Surefire light (spent waaaay too much $$$ on that!), and Magpul's namesake original product.
2023 - two stamps, YHM can, more Magpul stuff, Holosun optic, Streamlight light.
I do miss the original Reflex sight - no batteries, no switches. Illuminated by fiber optic and tritium. Worked great until the tritium aged out. Nothing like it on the market today. The Surefire foregrip/light not so much. It was bulky, expensive and a Bic lighter compared to modern LED light output.
I've lost count of how many rounds this gun has through it... still runs great, though.
In reply to Rodan :
Interesting, I've thought about swapping my 4-14 ffp for a higher power athlon a few times, but never could justify the move.
I actually have two from different retailers, one PA mil-dot on my .308 and a BSA mil-hash on a 6.8spc AR.
My only gripe with them is that the splines on the adjusters aren't fine enough that they line up with zero on the turrets when resetting zero. I have notes on my range card that stays with the rifle that zero is on one click on the low side of elevation and one on the right side of windage.
Taking the big rifle out this weekend with another guy shooting AR308. Not sure what range we'll use so I don't know how far we'll be able to stretch but 300y was addictive last time. My PSA could benefit from a better stock and trigger.
In reply to barefootcyborg5000 :
Shooting out at 300+ is a lot of fun. I'm very jealous of a friend that has a 100yd range on his property, and can shoot across a canyon onto National Forest to 300, 500, 700 and 1200 yds.
I have a .308 to zero, and some 6.5CM loads to chrono, but I'm not in enough of a hurry to go the range while the daytime high temps are in the low 40s. I can wait a month or so. 
In reply to Rodan :
Last time I shot, we left because it started snowing/raining. But that was 1500' higher than I'll be this weekend, and the forecast is clear. We'll see. Wind is a higher concern.
In reply to Rodan :
Do you still have the reflex sight? I think Trijicon will put fresh vials in just about everything they made. I have one of their Accushot scopes with tritium for that same reason; years before service.
Which can, by the way? I have one of their N20's.
In reply to matthewmcl :
Reflex has been gone for well over a decade. It had an Aimpoint PRO until last summer... wanted something a little less bulky.
Can is a Turbo K. Definitely not 'hearing safe', but takes an 11.5" 5.56 from 'permanent hearing loss in one shot' to 'uncomfortable'. Quieter than an unsuppressed 9mm handgun. Really impressive for a $400 can... I brutalized it with over 500 rounds the first day I shot it and it wasn't fazed at all.
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