I need to bend a wrench

As the title suggests, I have a suspension piece that I will be able to adjust far easier while it's attached to the car, but I need to bend a wrench to do it. The wrench in question is a 1 1/16" combination wrench, and it doesn't need to bend much. Just a few degrees tops to clear the fender.

So here's the question: I'm assuming I'll hit it with a torch and put it in a press and tweak it a bit. But after that do I let it cool on its own, or quench it? I don't want to make it too brittle and end up punching myself in the face. Although it wouldn't be the first time.

I usually let them cool naturally. You don't want a brittle wrench.

I've bent lots of wrenches (well, 3 or 4) and like toyoman said, I let them cool gradually. When I was at the dealer and trying to beat time, I'd put the end I didn't bend in water to wick away the heat without making it brittle (don't know if that works or not).

Clamp whichever end you want the bent in the vise, get it reallllllly hot with the torch and bend it with a piece of pipe slipped over or a hammer. Then forget about it for half an hour. For something that wont be seeing extreme torque(ie rusted bolts), as long as you don't take too much hardness from the ends, especially the open one, heat treat wont be an issue.

I've bent wrenches 'cold' for similar reasons more than once, never had a failure. Only a few degrees, though; if it needs to be more than about ten degrees it's time to fire up the cherry red wrench.

Toyman01 wrote: I usually let them cool naturally. You don't want a brittle wrench.

This is what I've always done.

yeah, i bought some husky wrenches in a set for junkyard use. you definitely do not want a brittle wrench, the 15mm left a hole in my face because the box end stayed put and the rest along with my fist decided to remove themselves from the area they were working in.

Go buy a new Craftsman wrench. Torch it, bend it, let it cool. Use it. Exchange it for a straight wrench.

Or, put the "fixed end" in the vise, heat a small bend area dull red, bend w/ a piece of pipe. Quickly remove from vise and drop into oil. Whatever - used motor oil - doesn't matter what.

Then, wire wheel it back to metal colored and use the torch to heat the general bend area back to a straw color then allow to cool. It's now been heat treated and annealed in a crude sense, but it'll be better than if you've simply annealed it to full soft.

I just hit them with the torch, bend or beat them into the shape I want and let them cool. I've got a 13mm combination wrench that is in a 3D "S" shape to fit the shifter on an Esprit.

I usually go to the pawn shops and find a cheap but serviceable wrench there to bend so I don't have to deform a Craftsman, etc. I also have a bucket of "junk tools" that I go through first when looking for donor stock.

I'm not following what the "piece of pipe" does in these descriptions. Is it the "fulcrum" you bend the heated wrench around to get the curve you want (doesn't sound like it from Kenny's description), or what?

Stealthtercel wrote: I'm not following what the "piece of pipe" does in these descriptions. Is it the "fulcrum" you bend the heated wrench around to get the curve you want (doesn't sound like it from Kenny's description), or what?

Put it over the opposite end of the wrench and use it as leverage. Also because a red hot wrench is you know, hot.

OK, that makes sense. Thank you!

Oh, and do this with real good ventilation, chrome fumes and all that.

If you know what the metal quench accordingly. If not, let it air cool.

If you're worried about hydrogen embrittlement, bake it for one hour at 300 degrees.