Lets talk garage improvements

My summer project is going to be fixing up my detached garage and getting it the way I want it.  After 9 years of living here, its about time.

The short and skinny:

• Located in a suburb of Milwaukee, WI.  No possibility to add on.
• Stick built, detached, 24 deep x 30 wide, 3 doors across the front, center door is 9x9, other doors are 7 tall x 8 wide.
  • Doors were replaced in 2016 with 2" thick insulated steel doors, high lift tracks, and jackshaft opener on the center bay
• Vehicles to be stored include a 2021 F150 CC/SB and a Dodge Viper.  Land Cruiser is gone (I know, I know)
• Nice concrete floor with no cracks, good vinyl siding, good windows, good roof.  No rot or structural issues
• Scissor trusses, 12 foot clearance in center bay.
• House has brand new 200A Service approx 30 feet away

The Goals:

• Clean, heated, and lit workspace
• Decent power for welder and air compressor
• Maybe a lift?  Dont do much actual wrenching any more
• Organized storage, not opposed to spending some bucks on some nice stuff.

The Current Plan:

• Move the Viper to the wife's attached garage, wife parks in front of her garage, I park in the back driveway
• Gut the whole big garage, get rid of all the hacked up shelving I have built, crap in the way, etc.  Big purge on 90% of the stuff.
• Pull down all the existing wiring, run temporary wiring from outside outlet on house for lights
• Install 100A service and pull new wiring.
  • Each wall on its own 120V 20A circuit
  • Dedicated 50A circuit at front of garage and at workbench for welder
  • Dedicated 20A circuit for air compressor (or whatever it needs)
  • Dedicated circuit for lift, at least roughed in and capped off
  • LED lighting, all on 1 circuit
• Install furnace
• Hire my contractor to insulate, sheetrock, and mud
• Paint and finish electrical
• Install cabinets in workbench area
• Install new air piping, drops at workbench and at overhead doors, hose retractor at workbench

Tool Plan:

• Sell horizontal IR 120V compressor, replace with upright 230V compressor
• Sell two welders (TIG and MIG), replace with multiprocess welder
• I have four toolboxes right now, all are full.  Two MATCO rollaways and two MATCO top boxes.  Some items could be condensed, could likely sell one rollaway and one top box
• 20 ton press - keep it?  It gets used once every 3 years right now, but when you need it - you need it.  
• Sell rolling car that drill press is on, move drill press to workbench

Questions:

• House is on oil heat with no plans to change, what is the best option for a furnace?  Currently considering a new LP/Natural Gas unit and a tank outside
  • Garage will be kept at 45-50 year round and only ramped up when I need to work on something
  • Small garage has a 240V milkhouse heater that works great, but thats not a good solution for a large garage or sustained heating
• Is drywall the best option?  I do some hot work, so flammability is a concern.  Steel is loud and looks unfinished to me.  Other options?  
• Buying new, what are some options for good garage cabinets?  Not looking to repurpose anything.  
• Should I do a slat wall?  Im not a huge fan of things sitting out - Tools and whatnot always get put away every day, but it may be nice for some things like chargers, cords, ladders, what-have-you.
• Whats the go-to for LED lighting?
• What else should I consider?
  • I don't really work on much any more.  Occasional brake jobs, oil changes, etc.  I work on bicycles mainly, have a dream of getting a project car but who knows.  I have a hard time getting rid of my mechanics tools since they are all bought and paid for.  Having a nice space to work would make it easier to get back into wrenching
  •  

Don't sheetrock. Its expensive and easy to damage. Just becomes a dingy mess. Hanging anything on the wall becomes a game of finding a stud. OSB painted white is way faster and more durable. 

Get a 2 post lift, you'll never regret it. Some work may be needed to the floor.

In reply to Gearheadotaku (Forum Supporter) :

I don't disagree, especially if we are spending someone else's money. 
 

Today's price on 1/2" 4x8 Sheetrock is $14.48.
 

7/16 OSB is $51.46. 

The #1 improvement anyone can make to any garage or shop is to build a tool shed. 
 

Nothing makes a garage better than getting the yard tools ladders and mowers OUT of the garage. 

Agreed... anything but drywall.  Slat wall is nice, but jeezes it gets pricey.  The panels aren't cheap, and then all the accessories just get nuts.

OSB is ugly and hard to clean, but functional.  I might consider OSB with whiteboard bonded to it.  White walls, gloss finish that's easy to clean, and your whole wall becomes a dry erase board.  It can chip easily but you could do a wainscotting of slats for when your engine block falls over against the wall.

For interior surfaces, I'd use drywall. It looks finished, and bounces light well. 
 

However, it's true that it can damage easily. I'd glue FRP panels over it for the bottom 4' only. It's durable as crap, cleans easily, and looks fantastic. 
 

(FRP panels are the white plastic panels with a bubbly surface. Often used in commercial bathrooms to avoid graffiti and make cleaning easy)

"Searching for studs" is a first world problem that any person with basic carpentry skills should be able to solve simply. 

In reply to SV reX :

Tool shed is exactly what I have planned.  I do have the option of adding on, so I'm doing a lean-to shed on the side big enough for snow blower, lawn mower, yard tools, and woodworking tools (which rarely get used at home since I work in a 30 x 75 wood shop so why would I cut anything at home :)

Also...

Drywall's resistance to damage is directly related to it's thickness. 
 

Residential drywall is usually 1/2" thick. That's passable, but not strong. 
 

3/8" drywall is sometimes used in residences. That's as good as toilet paper. 
 

5/8" drywall with studs 16" o.c. is the standard for commercial construction. It's really strong. With FRP panels glued on top of it, it would be really hard to damage. It's still reasonably priced, and has the added bonus of fire resistance. 
 

Today I am demolishing walls with 5/8" drywall on studs 16" oc.  It's a lot of work!  It's very resistant to a sledge hammer. 

For lighting, I'd install switched outlets in the ceiling, and then use plug-in led light bars screwed to your ceiling (or your trusses) as your light source. Folks here have enjoyed the Barrina brand ones, and I like them myself. Something to consider is to have multiple switches/circuits, because you don't necessarily want ALL the light all the time. It's nice to have a partly-lit garage sometimes.

Any plans for an electric car in the near future? How much of a pain will it be to add the charger wiring now vs in the future?

SV reX said:

The #1 improvement anyone can make to any garage or shop is to build a tool shed. 

Which is why I did exactly that last fall:

As for drywall vs. OSB, I always thought that wood paneling of any kind was a bad idea in a working shop. Drywall at least has some fire resistance.

In reply to Tom_Spangler (Forum Supporter) :

The OSB in my floor carries the same fire rating as drywall.  It's also waterproof for 100 days submerged which is something drywall can't do.

Granted, not cheap when you get the good stuff, but OSB is available with strong fire resistance.

I do like SVreX's idea of FRP.  You could take a scrub brush on a stick, some simple green, and a garden hose to clean it.

Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) said:

In reply to Tom_Spangler (Forum Supporter) :

The OSB in my floor carries the same fire rating as drywall.  It's also waterproof for 100 days submerged which is something drywall can't do.

Granted, not cheap when you get the good stuff, but OSB is available with strong fire resistance.

Curtis, this sounds like a bill of goods.  OSB does NOT have the same fire rating as drywall, and is rarely suitable for a floor.

Underwriters Laboratories has tested both plywood and OSB for flame spread characteristics, and found them to have flame spread rates between 74-200.  Materials with flame spread rates that high are NOT permitted in fire rated assemblies, and they have no fire rating.  5/8" Drywall Type X has a flame spread rate  of 15, and a smoke developed rating of 0.

The word "rating" (as opposed to "rate") is a reference to UL fire rated assemblies.  Basically, they build a particular test assembly and burn it to the failure point.  UL then gives the assembly a rating-  1 hour, 2 hour, Class C, etc.  There is no single material with a rating.  It has to be an entire assembly.  Stud spacing, type, surface materials... even the number of screws matter.  If an assembly is built in ANY manner other than the UL test assembly method, it is NOT a rated assembly.

As a floor, there are materials similar to OSB used for subfloors.  But they are usually thicker (3/4"- 1 1/8"), and use different glues.  While they may technically BE oriented strand boards (OSB- where the fiber strands are oriented in similar directions for engineering shear strength), they are usually referred to as "subflooring".  They sometimes also have tongue and groove edges.  "OSB" generally refers to panels used for wall and roof sheathing.  7/16 OSB (the most common OSB) is definitely not suitable to construct a floor.

There are also other materials sometimes called "OSB".  Chipboard is actually thick paper made from recycled materials.  VERY weak.  There are also materials like Advantech which is fantastic for floor construction, but that is not technically an oriented strand board.  It's engineering is different.  The particles are individually coated with resin, and not oriented.

Didn't realize OSB prices were up that high again. OSB or other paneling would reduce labor cost, no need to tape,mud, and sand.

For lighting in my garage I did a mix of A19 socket and outlets for the previously mentioned plug-in LED lights.  I put the LED bulbs in sockets on one switch that is illuminated so I can easily find it in the dark and the outlets on a second switch.  That way I can more easily get a mix of light color into the room via common 60 watt equivalents "soft white" bulbs and three foot long "cool white" hanging fixtures. 

Something I would like to do is tear down the bathroom that was built into the garage and double the size of that room getting rid of the toilet.  I want to add a plastic utility sink and a tankless water heater so I have hot & cold running water available out there.  While the toilet is a nice idea I would rather get the space back.  Plus this way I can use that room as a dark room as long as I keep it relatively clean.

Thoughts in incomplete sentences:

spray foam insulation

what size studs? can you add thickness to them for more insulation?

as much ceiling insulation as you can possibly get

IMO, this garage is too small to need air piping, but go ahead if that's what you want. I'd just use an air hose reel. Get enough air hose to reach about 20 feet outside the garage

one bay is work space and two for cars? That'll work.

not a fan of combustible-based heat in a garage, but I'm weird that way and it works out fine for most people.  Definitely vent to outside. Consider a mini-split.

Drywall has worked great for me for 20 years. No breaks or tears because I'm careful with my own stuff. Should be even easier for you if you're just working on bicycles.

Paying someone else to install and finish that Drywall was some of the best money I ever spent.

bright white paint, eggshell gloss

cabinets - I'd prefer clear plastic containers with lids, placed on shelves, so no cabinet recommendations

100A service is a good choice

Add outlets outside on each wall

make both 220V circuits 50A (#6 cable, 4 wire, which sucks to work with) and buy adapters to match your equipment

I put every other outlet on a different circuit (A-B-A-B etc), but that might be overkill

make all 110V circuits 20A (#12 wire)

outside lights on every corner

lighted light switches

place the lights around the perimeter of your work spaces, not in the center. Far fewer shadows that way.

Why do you want such a big compressor?

After reading about garage floor coverings, including just now on GRM, I think I like my bare concrete floor best

Exhaust fan?

Ceiling fans?

Screens on windows to get ventilation but keep the skeeters out (garage doors down, of course)

SV reX said:

The #1 improvement anyone can make to any garage or shop is to build a tool shed. 
 

Nothing makes a garage better than getting the yard tools ladders and mowers OUT of the garage. 

Agreed

Did a little building for my mower and such and it created a lot of space in my garage

In reply to SV reX :

I can dig it.  I was lumping in my engineered subfloor in with other OSB when it technically isn't.  Sorry for the confusion.  The stuff I have is the top of the line Advantech stuff, and one of the reasons I chose it was for its advertising for fire resistance.

Wow, lotta good stuff here.

Thanks for the rec on 5/8" drywall, ill talk to my guy and see what the price difference is.  

I will definitely drywall, I DIY'd my 1.5 car attached garage with OSB and it was a bit of a pain, drank the paint, and looks unfinished.  Its OK, but drywall looks so much better.  I am not a fan of the fire rating of OSB, drywall is much better so thats what we will be doing since I plan on some hot work.  

Ive heard that in a garage spray foam is not worth it, the doors are still a major leak point so having something sealed up tight everywhere else doesnt pay off.  Its also either special contractors or expensive DIY.  I did do spray foam in my basement and it turned out really well but I also wanted the water barrier of closed cell foam and I wanted to do my sills also.

Studs are 2x4, roof is 2 foot approx scissor truss on 24" centers so I can get the roof really insulated up.  I dont wanna give up the space to go to 2x6 thickness studs with firring strips.

Currently set up as 1 bay work space and 2 bay cars, by improving my organization I hope to be able to have a bit more parking room for my Viper.  I dont think I could ever get 3 cars in there.

I will go with a ceiling fan, not sure about the exhaust fan, would have to do a bit more reasearch.  I dont paint, and if I can, I work with the doors open, so not sure on the value of an exhaust fan.  

Outlets will be on each wall and separate circuits, all 12 gauge 20A wiring, double duplex outlets.  I also plan on installing outlets in the space between the overhead doors which is super convenient when working outside.  I had considered doing the A-B-A-B wiring scheme in double duplex boxes but I am not sure the juice is worth the squeeze.  I am just one man so I cant run two tools at once and all the big loads will be on independent circuits (welder, compressor, etc)

Regarding the compressor and air, the challenge is a twofold situation.  I cant put the compressor in a different building so I have to live with it in the garage.  I had at one point considered installing it in my basement and piping air to the garage, but marriage changed that plan.  I currently have a giant horizontal IR compressor, it works fine, but the horizontal form factor gives up a bit.  A guy could put it up on a shelf, but thats a lot of load without tieing back to the floor, which kind of defeats the purpose of moving it up.  A vertical compressor is much more convenient from a packaging perspective, and the overall footprint of a 20 gallon and a 60 gallon is strikingly similar.  Just like tits and TVs, rarely does someone say "I wish this air compressor was smaller"

I plan on piping the air from whatever corner the compressor gets installed in to the work bench area and to the front by the overhead doors, that way I can get all the way out into the driveway easily or into the small garage if needed without 10000 feet of hose.  Piping desnt cost that much in the grand scheme and it sure looks nice.  

I dry walled/insulated my attached garage about 8 years ago and it still looks great.  I have 14 (?) double tube fixtures that I just put LED lights in, they work great.  I have a 100k btu Hot Dawg garage furnace, it can make it shorts/t shirt weather in the dead of winter inside of 10 minutes, it works great and runs off natural gas. 

I love my 4 post lift but if you're going to do more mechanical work vs storage get a 2 post.  You'll have to redo the concrete floor where the posts will sit, most 2 posts lifts require 6" of concrete depth.

I wish I'd had my garage floor epoxy coated when we first bought the house.  Now my garage is packed full of stuff and I can't do it.  I'm in envy of your large 9x9 garage door, wish I had that!