In reply to Antihero :
I'm starting to hate being on the road for work and staying in hotels.
In reply to Antihero :
I'm starting to hate being on the road for work and staying in hotels.
Floating Doc (Forum Supporter) said:I recently broke a wheel stud for the first time in my life. Considering that there's two tire changes every autocross weekend, I guess I was overdue.
Since I often change tires in the evening after work for an event the next morning, and since I'm going to be doing more track days, I figured I should replace the studs with some ARP hardware.
I wasn't sure if I could get the rear ones changed without pulling the hubs, so I started there. I pulled the passenger side, looked at it, and decided to pay someone to do it. I didn't want to pull the hubs.
The slider pins needed to be greased, so that was good.
I reassembled it, then pulled off the driver side and greased the pins. I could hardly get the piston screwed back into the caliper. Test drive confirmed dragging brake.
Off to the parts store, mistakenly bought home the passenger side, went back to exchange. I then spent several hours over bits of three days trying to get the parking brake bracket attached after attaching the brake line and the caliper bracket.
I watched a video, saw that his new caliper already had the parking brake bracket attached. Pulled it apart, found out that the bolts wouldn't start even when working on the bench. No wonder. Threaded the bolts in from the back to clean up the threads.
In 20 minutes, it was back on the car. Did a preliminary bleed with a vacuum bleeder, full bleed on my next day off. Out for a test drive, passenger side dragging when I got home.
Back to the parts store for the caliper that I had previously brought home for a visit. Back on the jack stands, again. Pull the caliper and bracket as the sun is setting, and finally notice that the bolts holding the backing plate are accessible from the outside. Remove those (Florida car since new, zero rust), and guess what? I can change the studs now!
That means I get to remove the driver's side again!
And there it sits. I got to codrive a friend's Civic Sport hatchback today, so I skipped a day for autocross (9th in Pax!).
The good, the bad, the ugly, and still not done.
Five done, 15 to go. Got it figured out now, and the fronts will be easy. I've done front brakes three times on this car.
Floating Doc (Forum Supporter) said:I recently broke a wheel stud for the first time in my life. Considering that there's two tire changes every autocross weekend, I guess I was overdue.
Since I often change tires in the evening after work for an event the next morning, and since I'm going to be doing more track days, I figured I should replace the studs with some ARP hardware.
I wasn't sure if I could get the rear ones changed without pulling the hubs, so I started there. I pulled the passenger side, looked at it, and decided to pay someone to do it. I didn't want to pull the hubs.
The slider pins needed to be greased, so that was good.
I reassembled it, then pulled off the driver side and greased the pins. I could hardly get the piston screwed back into the caliper. Test drive confirmed dragging brake.
Off to the parts store, mistakenly bought home the passenger side, went back to exchange. I then spent several hours over bits of three days trying to get the parking brake bracket attached after attaching the brake line and the caliper bracket.
I watched a video, saw that his new caliper already had the parking brake bracket attached. Pulled it apart, found out that the bolts wouldn't start even when working on the bench. No wonder. Threaded the bolts in from the back to clean up the threads.
In 20 minutes, it was back on the car. Did a preliminary bleed with a vacuum bleeder, full bleed on my next day off. Out for a test drive, passenger side dragging when I got home.
Back to the parts store for the caliper that I had previously brought home for a visit. Back on the jack stands, again. Pull the caliper and bracket as the sun is setting, and finally notice that the bolts holding the backing plate are accessible from the outside. Remove those (Florida car since new, zero rust), and guess what? I can change the studs now!
That means I get to remove the driver's side again!
And there it sits. I got to codrive a friend's Civic Sport hatchback today, so I skipped a day for autocross (9th in Pax!).
The good, the bad, the ugly, and still not done.
Five done, 15 to go. Got it figured out now, and the fronts will be easy. I've done front brakes three times on this car.
The motor or gearbox for my lauter rakes died. This is going to be a really bad brew day.
Translation: the mechanical thing that scoops all of our spent grain into a dumper so that we can get rid of it is not working. So I am almost certainly going to have to climb inside a blisteringly hot metal box and shovel out 800lbs of grain by hand.
If even possible. This might not be safely doable today, because it will likely be too hot to climb in there safely today.
In reply to Beer Baron 🍺 :
Look for a local motor repair shop. They may be able to get a replacement or yours fixed today. I work for hammond electric motors in north carolina, doing exactly that. Fixing/selling motors and gearboxes and stuff. Most cities have a few motor shops. Bearing houses usually keep a supply of the common stuff on hand too.
In reply to Beer Baron 🍺 :
I've used Ohio Electric Motor Service on Livingston, but it's been about 15 years.
http://www.ohioelectricmotorservicecenter.com/ and 614-444-1451
a little closer to you is Mid-Ohio Electric Company on McKinley. I haven't used them.
https://mid-ohioelectric.com/ and 614-274-8000
In reply to Dusterbd13 :
I called up a couple. They're all busy.
This is also a massive motor and gearbox that bolt into our brewhouse structure, and probably can't remove to service without proper hoists. Possibly not until I get the grain out of the vessel.
So, when I put the supercharged 1999 1.8L in my 1990 Miata back in 2018, I was running low on funds and rather than getting a high-flow catalytic converter for an NA8, I went with a resonated test pipe. I've lived with that ever since but it's just way too damn loud, and I just don't enjoy driving the car, partially due to this. So, I decided to finally get a Magnaflow or Flyin' Miata catalytic converter and quiet it down (and make it less intent on murdering me when started indoors) and now New York is a CARB state and no one will ship me a converter. So, ironically, New York laws are actively preventing me from making my car quieter and more environmentally friendly.
dculberson said:In reply to Beer Baron 🍺 :
I've used Ohio Electric Motor Service on Livingston, but it's been about 15 years.
a little closer to you is Mid-Ohio Electric Company on McKinley. I haven't used them.
Those are the two that I called.
In reply to NickD :
Correct me if I'm wrong, NY doesn't care about CARB compliance on your '90 Miata, it's just that you're effectively buying a cat for a '99 (er, or a '94-97? for NA8?) and after an entire subculture was created for the joy of blatant pollution and goaded the EPA into stricter enforcement.
Moss has a 50-state '99, weld-in Magnaflow cat: https://mossmiata.com/909-802-cp-replacement-catalytic-converters-by-magnaflow-universal-fit
I assume they'll ship it to NY since you specifically choose a CA/NY configuration. It's expensive, but would that solve the issue? Or is it important that it's NA8?
Road trip and pick up an EPA cat? Again, it sure looks like NY considers a non-CARB cat perfectly legal and legit on a '90 Miata, we're just talking about businesses not running afoul of enforcement since telling them it's going on a '90 is no more enforceable that the golden era of "not for on-road use" disclaimers... Which was always silly, but when it was a relatively small number of people, most of whom were trying to make cars run *well* (which is not always cleanest, but certainly cleaner than explicitly billowing smoke), it was a workable bit of slop.
Berking people whose entire personality is a raised middle finger...
In reply to Jesse Ransom :
Yeah, it has to be a '94-'97 converter to marry the '99 engine, NA8 header, and NA exhaust.
Good-Win Racing does offer a CARB-compliant one, I discovered. But it's wildly more expensive than the Federal version. Like $1129 vs $279.
Beer Baron 🍺 said:In reply to Dusterbd13 :
I called up a couple. They're all busy.
This is also a massive motor and gearbox that bolt into our brewhouse structure, and probably can't remove to service without proper hoists. Possibly not until I get the grain out of the vessel.
Mmmmm....
Sew. Most likely burned up the motor. Or ate the hollow output shaft. We rarely see internal gearbox failures in that size.
Sucks you ain't nearby. We'd have figured out how to take care of you. But it may be tine to start a relationship with a motor shop so they will drop whatever and cone running to help like we do. Prevent product from going bad, cut downtime, etc. Good ones do machine work and other services as well to help you keep running.
In reply to Beer Baron 🍺 :
That looks like a SEW gearmotor. They have pretty quick turnaround out of Spartanburg, SC. It will be pricey though.
In reply to Beer Baron 🍺 :
Seems likely that the motor can be removed without removing the gearbox and thus without disturbing what's in the vessel. But it's going to be a heavy beast!
dculberson said:In reply to Beer Baron 🍺 :
I've used Ohio Electric Motor Service on Livingston, but it's been about 15 years.
a little closer to you is Mid-Ohio Electric Company on McKinley. I haven't used them.
Those are the two that I called.
Good news - Mid Ohio Electric was able to have a guy come out to look at it. After futzing about forcing the fan on the back of the motor drive shaft to turn, we got it to break free... and seems to be working fine now. I was able to grain out without any problems.
The worst that happened was we missed the window for our farmer to pick up spent grain, so ended up just dumping it in the dumpster out back.
Suspect that it was actually the shaft seal inside the vessel getting stuck that was stopping things from moving. Going to replace that which is relatively cheap and easy.
(Pulling that gearbox was going to be a PITA. Have to lift the shaft up into the vessel above to get clearance. Which would require first emptying all the grain out.)
In reply to NickD :
Ah, phooey.
Wait, hang on... As long as we're wading around in administrative mayhem, isn't a 1995 excluded? It's right in the text of the FM NA8 listing.
They're also not legal in states requiring CARB cats. That's California, Colorado, and New York for 94 and 96+ cars (yes, it's still legal for 95 cars in NY).
I'm not looking to create any trouble for anyone, but a '95 FM NA8 would fit your application, be legal for sale into NY, and would be absolutely legal for a 1990 Miata, no? Or is this effectively kiboshed by the simple fact of having raised the topic of off-label use? That feels like a not-unexpected facet of having to cross the t's and dot the i's. (side note; had to look up that it's correct to use an apostrophe when pluralizing single characters...)
Also, if you don't mind cutting up or replicating bits of your test pipe, Magnaflow will sell you a "universal" CARB cat specifically for a 1995 Miata (why do they call it universal when it's clearly a correct-documents specific to the application cat?) for $560:
https://www.magnaflow.com/collections/1995-mazda-miata-catalytic-converters?california=true
Interesting that Magnaflow, while doing a lot of work on the site to get folks the suitable cats for their car and region, doesn't "de-escalate" the Miata cat for '95, instead just indicating the same CARB item they presumably would for '94-'97?
Moreover, Moss has a 48-state Magnaflow '94-'97 direct fit that calls out only CA and CO as no-gos, though whether this is to accommodate NY's 1995 anomaly or for some other reason, I don't know, but it's $287:
https://mossmiata.com/909-800-cp-replacement-catalytic-converters-by-magnaflow
Why are other people's problems so much more interesting when one's kinda procrastinating? I gotta go shovel some mulch...
Jesse Ransom said:In reply to NickD :
Ah, phooey.
Wait, hang on... As long as we're wading around in administrative mayhem, isn't a 1995 excluded? It's right in the text of the FM NA8 listing.
They're also not legal in states requiring CARB cats. That's California, Colorado, and New York for 94 and 96+ cars (yes, it's still legal for 95 cars in NY).
I'm not looking to create any trouble for anyone, but a '95 FM NA8 would fit your application, be legal for sale into NY, and would be absolutely legal for a 1990 Miata, no? Or is this effectively kiboshed by the simple fact of having raised the topic of off-label use? That feels like a not-unexpected facet of having to cross the t's and dot the i's. (side note; had to look up that it's correct to use an apostrophe when pluralizing single characters...)
Also, if you don't mind cutting up or replicating bits of your test pipe, Magnaflow will sell you a "universal" CARB cat specifically for a 1995 Miata (why do they call it universal when it's clearly a correct-documents specific to the application cat?) for $560:
https://www.magnaflow.com/collections/1995-mazda-miata-catalytic-converters?california=trueInteresting that Magnaflow, while doing a lot of work on the site to get folks the suitable cats for their car and region, doesn't "de-escalate" the Miata cat for '95, instead just indicating the same CARB item they presumably would for '94-'97?
Moreover, Moss has a 48-state Magnaflow '94-'97 direct fit that calls out only CA and CO as no-gos, though whether this is to accommodate NY's 1995 anomaly or for some other reason, I don't know, but it's $287:
https://mossmiata.com/909-800-cp-replacement-catalytic-converters-by-magnaflowWhy are other people's problems so much more interesting when one's kinda procrastinating? I gotta go shovel some mulch...
I put the FM NA8 converter in my cart, go to checkout, enter my address, and it says they will not ship to that address.
Popup chat boxes. What the actual berkeley. If I want to chat with someone, I'll call my wife.
When your chat box pops up and covers what I am looking at, there is a pretty good chance I'm going to exit your website and buy from someone else.
When it does it the 2nd and 3rd time, finding another supplier is 100% guaranteed.
Take your chat box, fold it until it's all sharp edges and stick it up your web designer's ass.
Sideways.
Trying to get health insurance, I've been relatively healthy my adult life so it wasn't much of an issue until now.
Because of low income I should be able to get a discount but I have to apply for it. At the beginning of the application it asks for my expected 2025 income, the later it asks me to break it down by listing employers. And it asks for net but doesn't say net.
Then the next screen says it detected an income discrepancy and to explain why my income is lower. It just has a few options for reasons. None work, trying to continue just says we couldn't verify your income.
If I had any clue what they were basing it off of I could do something but I'm stuck.
I've been working for over a year, same job. Prior to that a couple months unemployed, after I was fired from a job (more money) and my father passed away around the same time so working wasn't a good time trying to help my mother at the time. So back to 2023 I made more money, but 2024 and 2025 pretty much the same.
Hopefully a call later today will help sort it out.
In reply to NickD :
Given the text on their site, I figure it'd be worth shooting FM an email.
OTOH, I just went as far as estimating shipping to NY and Moss' checkout process hadn't blinked, if you want a "no talking to anybody" option.
Holy carp. The Frigidaire fridge we got in December has quit making ice. Again.
It's infuriating how much they badger me to buy an extended warranty from them. "We know you paid us for the fridge, but as you can plainly see it's a pile of crap, so you'd better give us more money now so you don't have to give us more money later to fix the thing we alleged to be a functional fridge when we sold it to you."
So far this is not turning out to be the improvement over the Samsung I was hoping it would be, though at least on the first go they did manage to fix it, unlike the Samsung. I will not be stoked if we have to have someone come replace a fan every three months for the life of the fridge.
Also, pick a date to see available time windows for repair call.
Time windows: 8:00-5:00.
In reply to Jesse Ransom :
We had to replace an 8 year old Frigidaire oven because they stopped making parts for it. We picked another Frigidaire because of ease of replacement and a recommendation from teh tech that tried to fix the old one... they badger us constantly to buy an extended warranty for the new one...
In reply to Jesse Ransom :
We have the same problem with ours. The timer motor in the icemaker gets a little moisture in it and freezes. It's a known problem. One of the service techs left us one of the old units. Now, when it quits, we swap units and stick the frozen one in a cabinet. They last 3-6 months. It takes my wife about 5 minutes to swap it.
You'll need to log in to post.
