GIRTHQUAKE said:
tuna55 said:
84FSP and Girthquake, let me know if you're making a purchase, and I'll help out with 10x of the chest seal twin packs
I was focusing on the smaller things, but I was gonna talk to my hospital to see what I could get for donations from them too; Vikki, Bill- do they NEED to be that specific brand? Because one of the perks of working at a smaller hospital, is that I might be able to talk to material supply directly and order things directly through them, as questionably legal as that sounds 
Also Bill: Since I'm already sending things to you, I can also include Redline MT-90 in some of them. It's already ~$100 for each package sent, I can find the space for a few pints of the stuff.
VikkiDp inquired early on about the possibility of shipping UV lamps to and from other places. Ultimately what we were told was that the lamps are surprisingly delicate and prone to shipping damage. Our current supplier is in Kyiv and ships to Dnipro regularly. We think this translates well in the ability to provide spares as well (if needed).
However, if a supplier of hospital materials had good knowledge of what a prenatal center might need and was open to donating to the cause, that would be awesome! We do have a medical supply store in town that I have a good reputation with, so buying items locally (as opposed to buying and shipping them from the states) is a possibility.
RE: MT90. Man, if you had a spare jug or two laying around I'd happily take them off your hands. I don't know what the going rate is in the US these days, but it's $60 a liter out here 
Is there maybe a better brand I should be looking for out here? I mean, I'll swear on a bottle of Redline but that's getting to be a tough pill to swallow.
Oh shoot, ninja edit: Nope, better not send the oil. I forgot about our freight forwarder. I think that might be in the "no no" bin, but thank you for offering!
RE: MT90. Man, if you had a spare jug or two laying around I'd happily take them off your hands. I don't know what the going rate is in the US these days, but it's $60 a liter out here
berkeleyING $60?!? IT'S LIKE $70 A GALLON IN IOWA WTFFFFFFFFFF
However, if a supplier of hospital materials had good knowledge of what a prenatal center might need and was open to donating to the cause, that would be awesome! We do have a medical supply store in town that I have a good reputation with, so buying items locally (as opposed to buying and shipping them from the states) is a possibility.
I can actually spend some time with my regional trauma center/OB Ward/Baby Factory and ask around. Problem is naturally, that there's serious differences between what Americans think is necessary and what is used by Ukraine- I had a patient once coming to us from Jamacia whom none of their IVs or lines could be used with American luer-lock systems so I had to get all new IVs on them, for instance.
Is the prenatal center new, like BRAND goddamn new? Or are we expanding something that already exists?
tuna55
MegaDork
5/16/23 12:47 p.m.
GIRTHQUAKE said:
tuna55 said:
84FSP and Girthquake, let me know if you're making a purchase, and I'll help out with 10x of the chest seal twin packs
I was focusing on the smaller things, but I was gonna talk to my hospital to see what I could get for donations from them too; Vikki, Bill- do they NEED to be that specific brand? Because one of the perks of working at a smaller hospital, is that I might be able to talk to material supply directly and order things directly through them, as questionably legal as that sounds
Also Bill: Since I'm already sending things to you, I can also include Redline MT-90 in some of them. It's already ~$100 for each package sent, I can find the space for a few pints of the stuff.
Hungary Bill (Forum Supporter) said:
Girthquake:
We have contact with Ira. She's super busy right now as summer is coming up and reports that she can 1000% use those supplies as they will be in great demand over the summer break. We have permission to go "full send" with anything you can get (including ridiculous amounts of sidewalk chalk 
)
ORDERS RECEIVED; FLOODGATES OPENING.
hey, no worries. Just tell me where you can use something under $200 and I'll paypal you to augment your box.
tuna55 said:
GIRTHQUAKE said:
tuna55 said:
84FSP and Girthquake, let me know if you're making a purchase, and I'll help out with 10x of the chest seal twin packs
I was focusing on the smaller things, but I was gonna talk to my hospital to see what I could get for donations from them too; Vikki, Bill- do they NEED to be that specific brand? Because one of the perks of working at a smaller hospital, is that I might be able to talk to material supply directly and order things directly through them, as questionably legal as that sounds
Also Bill: Since I'm already sending things to you, I can also include Redline MT-90 in some of them. It's already ~$100 for each package sent, I can find the space for a few pints of the stuff.
Hungary Bill (Forum Supporter) said:
Girthquake:
We have contact with Ira. She's super busy right now as summer is coming up and reports that she can 1000% use those supplies as they will be in great demand over the summer break. We have permission to go "full send" with anything you can get (including ridiculous amounts of sidewalk chalk )
ORDERS RECEIVED; FLOODGATES OPENING.
hey, no worries. Just tell me where you can use something under $200 and I'll paypal you to augment your box.
You guys are awesome and I am LOVING how much this thread has grown since we started.
GIRTHQUAKE said:
Is the prenatal center new, like BRAND goddamn new? Or are we expanding something that already exists?
Nooooo. Very much already in existence.
Dang, I had no idea medical supplies would differ that much from such a short distance. So far I haven't had (or at least haven't heard about) any fitment issues with our local supplies going into Ukraine.
I did some quick digging and had some luck when I stumbled upon a Polish vendor. I have 4-quarts of MT90 and one quart of GL5 75W90 headed this way for 120-euro (and being EU, there should be no additional VAT). I'm going to call that a win
Hungary Bill (Forum Supporter) said:
GIRTHQUAKE said:
Is the prenatal center new, like BRAND goddamn new? Or are we expanding something that already exists?
Nooooo. Very much already in existence.
Dang, I had no idea medical supplies would differ that much from such a short distance. So far I haven't had (or at least haven't heard about) any fitment issues with our local supplies going into Ukraine.
So more like, ask what is always used up and needed for a prenatal center then?
I did some quick digging and had some luck when I stumbled upon a Polish vendor. I have 4-quarts of MT90 and one quart of GL5 75W90 headed this way for 120-euro (and being EU, there should be no additional VAT). I'm going to call that a win
Okay researching things- MT90 has no restrictions to USPS and it's flashpoint is high enough it's not considered flammable, so I'd ask your frieght forwarder because so far, I totally could lmao
GIRTHQUAKE said:
Hungary Bill (Forum Supporter) said:
GIRTHQUAKE said:
Is the prenatal center new, like BRAND goddamn new? Or are we expanding something that already exists?
Nooooo. Very much already in existence.
Dang, I had no idea medical supplies would differ that much from such a short distance. So far I haven't had (or at least haven't heard about) any fitment issues with our local supplies going into Ukraine.
So more like, ask what is always used up and needed for a prenatal center then?
I did some quick digging and had some luck when I stumbled upon a Polish vendor. I have 4-quarts of MT90 and one quart of GL5 75W90 headed this way for 120-euro (and being EU, there should be no additional VAT). I'm going to call that a win
Okay researching things- MT90 has no restrictions to USPS and it's flashpoint is high enough it's not considered flammable, so I'd ask your frieght forwarder because so far, I totally could lmao
Yeah, if we're going to venture outside their order of UV lights, we should probably keep it pretty "universal". I've had VERY good luck with suture kits, bandages, forceps, surgical kits, and the like. Stuff that needs no outside attachments or voltages to operate (our skin doesn't care if a suture is imperial or metric, and the needles get tossed anyway). OOH! and dont forget baby clothes, baby blankets, and diapers. Prenatal centers need ALL of those as well.
I wouldn't risk the MT90 though. There's an inspector on this end that runs a ridiculously tight ship. I'm scared about venturing into the grey areas because ultimately it will be just "what he decides" that would cause us problems. Currentl ETA on the stuff I just ordered is May 26th to June 9th. Plenty of time.
In reply to WonkoTheSane :
Your donations have already got Ukraine 
and i'm starting to work on buying and delivering the lamps 
Thank you so much!!!
In reply to GIRTHQUAKE :
I can actually spend some time with my regional trauma center/OB Ward/Baby Factory and ask around.
What could it be? for examples. Then i could ask the prenatal center if they need such stuff 
I saw this and didn't know where else to post it.
https://twitter.com/WJakubenko/status/1658320133851324416
We've helped Dnipro firefighters in the past and have the ability to do so again if there was enough interest. Gloves, boots, and who knows what else we could scrounge up for them that would be useful.
That is all.
Ok, truck update and sure enough it's raining outside so I'm stuck in the garage. No big deal as I can try to smash those swaybar bushing mounts into shape:
I think that one does a pretty good job of showing what's wrong. Obviously something came up and smashed these frame to bushing mounts at some point in this poor truck's history. By now the rubber ones are completely destroyed, which is why I went ahead and ordered Energy's poly set from RockAuto when I bought my end-links. If I try to install the new bushings like this though, they'll bind and I'll just end up destroying the new set.
So here goes!
I measure the bushing width to get an idea of what I'll need to get things formed correctly. It's 32mm wide.
I joke to myself that the dimension is going to match the thickness of my spare 22RE camshaft I have on my workbench and sure enough it does. I briefly ponder smashing this back to shape on the bearing surface of that cam but decide not to (maybe I'll want to RV it some day or something..)
None of my round stock I have laying around is the correct diameter either. Eventually I get creative and discover that one end of my ball-peen hammer is just about perfect for what I need:
Stop. I can hear you laughing, but I swear it worked!
Those things fit PERFECTLY around the back end of that hammer. it wasn't as easy as "smash and go" but it did serve as a solid point so hammer on
Next up was the swaybar:
It's pitted a bit from corrosion over the years, and this includes the surface that will move underneath those bushings. in what might be the biggest fit of "I don't really need to do this, but have nothing better to do", I decided to wire whip the whole thing and paint it:
Ta-da!
I had just a little more time to kill in the garage before I had to get back to my daily errands, so I decided to go after that radiator leak:
There she is. Found, sanded, made bigger with the awl, and stuffed full of quick-steel.
Hopefully that holds. If not, I'll take the tank in to have it repaired (I don't have a torch for such things).
Good times.
So here we go, the weather still isn't pretty but it's only "mist" and not actual rain so I have no excuse to stay indoors. I wasn't sure I was mentally prepared to drop the transmission so I initially started by disconnecting the clutch slave cylinder and the starter. But then one thing lead to another and pretty soon we find ourselves at the back of the trans with 20-socket wrench extensions and a universal joint...
Like I said, one day I'm bound to be too old for this but i guess today's not that day.
With the transmission separated, I got at that clutch and then zipped the fly-wheel off with my air gun.
And there we are!
Ok, so I still have to take the dowels out of the flywheel and that's a pain in the butt. I cant just press them through as there's no rear access. I also don't have the tool that I just discovered exists for this exact purpose...
I read that if you tap around them lightly with a ball-peen they can work themselves out, but no amount of tapping did anything.
No amount of pulling did anything.
Throwing caution to the wind, I decided to f-it-all and smashed a cheap claw hammer into place and then pried like it was going out of style.
There. I win.
Now the flywheel is ready for the machine shop!
This photo is for my reference later (Dowel locations)
Two quick points:
1) A cheap propane or mapping gas torch (BernzOmatic or Hungarian equivalent) from the hardware store is adequate to match that radiator tank. You will need acid-core solder and some flux.
2) I'm not positive that friction surface on the flywheel is really all that jó. It looks a little roached to me. You're this deep in, so you might as well have them skim the friction surface and then grind the perimeter to a 0.6mm step.
That friction surface actually looks like it has grooves, like a vinyl record. Hopefully the shop is actually grinding the flywheel correctly and not just cutting it on a lathe.
DarkMonohue said:
Two quick points:
1) A cheap propane or mapping gas torch (BernzOmatic or Hungarian equivalent) from the hardware store is adequate to match that radiator tank. You will need acid-core solder and some flux.
2) I'm not positive that friction surface on the flywheel is really all that jó. It looks a little roached to me. You're this deep in, so you might as well have them skim the friction surface and then grind the perimeter to a 0.6mm step.
That friction surface actually looks like it has grooves, like a vinyl record. Hopefully the shop is actually grinding the flywheel correctly and not just cutting it on a lathe.
Can dig!
I was thinking that since the clutch and flywheel had already gotten friendly then I'd leave the mating surface alone. I'll ask him to hit both surfaces (keeping the step of course).
No idea about the grind vs lathe though. Strong suspicion it's a lathe based on the record surface look (plus it's just a guy in a garage with a couple big BIG lathes, a mill, and some other things). The problem is, I don't know any other place in town 
Hungary Bill (Forum Supporter) said:
Can dig!
I was thinking that since the clutch and flywheel had already gotten friendly then I'd leave the mating surface alone. I'll ask him to hit both surfaces (keeping the step of course).
No idea about the grind vs lathe though. Strong suspicion it's a lathe based on the record surface look (plus it's just a guy in a garage with a couple big BIG lathes, a mill, and some other things). The problem is, I don't know any other place in town
Rats. Cutting it on a lathe is not the correct procedure.
Is kuplung the correct translation? There's a place in Kecszéd called, and I swear I am not making this up, Schmuck Fék-Kuplung. I know it's an 80km drive, but it might be worth it if the local shop can't grind it correctly.
Or maybe you have a buddy in a machine shop at work who can sneak that job in on his lunch break...?
EDIT: If the local shop has a mill and a rotary table, they can do the work on the mill with a flycutter. The issue, I believe, is in cutting concentric grooves in the friction surface.
Kuplung is correct for "clutch", yup!
Ok, I have a buddy building a Cossworth powered 4wd buggy and I just happened to catch him online. He says he normally doesn't bother with resurfacing flywheels (he wants the weight up for "power") but has a buddy at a Volvo shop that might know something. He's going to ask him tomorrow.
I took the flywheel to an undisclosed location and grabbed a measuring tool. Current step maths out to 0.53mm. Admittedly I'm inexperienced in this area (as I've never had flywheel issues before, I've always just dropped them off and picked them up, and left the rest to the pro's) but my gut is telling me that shaving that up by .07mm is going to do very much. But you never know!
(quick pause here for the people who are smarter than me: the gauge is scaled at .0005", the machinist counted off "46" and then multiplied by scale. I see "22" and then I multiply by scale. Which is correct?)
I'm currently considering a 2-pronged approach. Buying a new one, and machining this one.
Also: The discoloration on the friction surface of the flywheel is only that. It's smooth as glass.
Question: What if I let the man lathe it, and then I rough it up with a DA sander and 80 grit or something?
Ask him how he did it. He could have used a tool post grinder to finish after turning.
Edit on the scale. Each tic is .0005 inches. 22 is .022 = .56mm. You can just read it directly.
Also, you don't see 22, you see 21. One tic would be 20.5 thousandths, or .0205 inches.
matthewmcl said:
Ask him how he did it. He could have used a tool post grinder to finish after turning.
Edit on the scale. Each tic is .0005 inches. 22 is .022 = .56mm. You can just read it directly.
Also, you don't see 22, you see 21. One tic would be 20.5.
I can ask him to show me, but it'd be after the fact. Trying to explain something in a language that specific would have me completely lost.
Copy, 21.
You lost me a bit on your math though. With your confirmation of "21" then I'm multiplying by .0005 (giving me 0.0105"), which then converts to metric giving our current measurement of the step as .266mm.
If that's correct, then bringing that up by .334mm (and back into spec) sounds like a bigger step that might make more of a difference. (and I'll start the first prong of our 2-prong approach tomorrow with our original machinist. We'll just have to figure the rest out as we go). But if .56mm is correct, then really we're just a gnats rear out of spec and I don't see it making any difference.
Eitehr way, we can always order a new one from RockAuto.
Are we sure? 22 tics means 22x.0005 which means .011" or 0.28mm. Or am I missing something?
Can you verify it with feeler gauges between the dial indicator and the low side of the flywheel?
In reply to DarkMonohue :
22 on the dial means 44 tics. You can count them if you like, but it is just like a tape measure. 12 on a tape measure is 12 inches, even when it is marked in 1/16ths. For quick reference, you go 10 tics on that dial to get from 20 to 25.
Edit: the dial in the photo shows .021 inches, which is about .53mm.
In reply to matthewmcl :
The fact that the numerals on the face don't count the number of tics is exactly what I was overlooking, and why I would have been reaching for feeler gauges or a digital caliper to dumb it down a little. Thanks for clearing that up.
I have more stuffies, headphones/earbuds (20+?), And regular pencils ready. Also I found a little neocate junior powdered formula, but it's for 1+ yr olds; I'll look for other formulas but it might be too expensive for me
In reply to GIRTHQUAKE :
Looks awesome!!!
Hmmm... we have babies 1+ yrs olds, but you have to see if it's worth it
