N7Prime Reader
11/7/18 2:04 p.m.

Hello. I've recently been having an issue with my B18CR having difficulty starting. Keep in mind this is a STOCK 1998 JDM B18CR with the factory JDM ECU. Meaning I cannot connect this to a scan tool.

When the engine is cold. It can start usually on the second crank. However when I get it to operating temperature, turn it off and try to restart it. It will be VERY difficult to get it to fire up. It will crank no issue and try and get running but won't after many tries. Priming the fuel pump does nothing to help.
When it does start up. Sometimes it's with a CEL. Sometimes not. The engine runs great when running and driving. Its getting it started that's the issue.

I unplugged the IAT Sensor and cranked it over with no difference. I then unplugged the MAP sensor and cranked the engine and it fired right up but was in limp mode with a CEL. I don't know if the car just runs on a base map when the MAP sensor is unplugged, but the issue could be something else.

I also notice a fuel smell when cranking excessively and managed to get a backfire once.

Anyone have any idea? Thanks.

¯\_(ツ)_/¯ UberDork
11/7/18 2:17 p.m.

Disclaimer: I know nothing specific about that engine.  But I've berkeleyed with plenty of 80s and 90s stuff without a scanner.

How does it key on/key off- is it a regular ignition, wired the way it's supposed to, or some series of switches and buttons?  Maybe something isn't getting the signal it needs for a hot start?  Maybe just not for long enough before cranking?

Does it have a cold start injector?  If so, any chance it's being triggered somehow or sticking?

Does it "flood clear" if you hold it at WOT when starting?  Does doing that make it start repeatably and without a CEL?

N7Prime Reader
11/7/18 3:23 p.m.

Regular ignition.

I haven't tried WOT. I'll try after work. Thanks.


Nugi New Reader
11/18/18 12:58 p.m.

Unless using original exhaust, intake, etc, you are going to need to tune it eventually anyway to get all the power from it. I would find an OBD1 setup, (and jumper harness if obd2) and have your tuner chip it. You could easily sell the stock ecu to someone who doesent know any better to cover the cost. You will then have complete control, and knowledge of what is going on. 

If on the super fast and cheap, I would check your fpr, o2, and check for vacuum leaks.  Not familiar with the 'b18cr' but my old jdm b16a used dual o2 and would act like that with a single one. It was a per-runner style, not a pre-post cat style. If yours has the duals, I would double down on my suggestion to convert to obd1 ecu tuning setup. They are THE way on b series honda engines. 

Nugi New Reader
11/18/18 1:03 p.m.

Almost forgot, this is the age the coil in the dizzy goes for those engines. If at all possible, rebuild the OEM, or an oem, distributor. The aftermarket replacements are ALL terrible. Junkyard dive for a gsr one of the correct age if yours isnt stock. Check under the cap and clean it up if nothing else. Get an aftermarket cam seal when yours starts to leak. 

N7Prime Reader
11/21/18 1:27 p.m.

In reply to Nugi :

I bought another distributor because I could NOT find the #1 Cylinder position sensor separately. I'll replace the distributor when it arrives. 

iwannarace New Reader
11/26/18 6:40 p.m.

If you haven't already, try honda-tech. Great forum for this kind of stuff.

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