bbbbRASS
bbbbRASS Reader
5/6/25 6:31 p.m.

Normal disclaimers; do this at your own risk, don't sue me, you can injure/damage things if you are an idiot.

Next disclaimer; Yes lithium batteries are dangerous, so are all energy sources. If you are comfortable working on your home electricity or on fuel systems, you can learn enough to do this safely also. Gasoline is much more volatile and dangerous than lithium packs. Once you get about 30V, more safety/caution/experience is needed.

Final disclaimer; I'm not an expert, I've learned from the work of others and practice. I'm also going to add items to this thread as I go and have access to better photos but wanted to get it started.

PURPOSE:

This is a DIY on diagnosing, fixing, repairing (as in replacement of components), and repurposing tool cell battery packs. The basic principals apply to everything from flashlights to EVs.

Other places to learn:

Second Life Storage - Individual cells, home built powerwalls, DIY 18650/21700 pack construction

DIY Solar - Larger home packs, general DC wiring, DIY prismatic pack construction

Buggies Gone Wild - Golf cart batteries

Endless Sphere - EBike batteries, DIY lithium pack construction

 

A few more not linked: DIY Electric Car, OpenInverter

 

You for certain need a multimeter to do this. You most likely need a T10 security hex bit. You would be well served to have an adjustable CC/CV benchtop power supply but if you only need to get one or 2 packs started, you may not need this. If you are down with soldering and have plenty of time you can use a TP4056 chip (which can also make pretty much anything battery powered rechargable, fun!).

bbbbRASS
bbbbRASS Reader
5/6/25 6:32 p.m.

Holding for instructions photos

Typical Modes of failure:

Pack won't charge - Fuse is blown, physical damage, total voltage is too low for the charger to play with, or the protection chip fighting you.

Pack dies more quickly than it used to - Some capacity loss over time is normal. Sudden or dramatic loss of usage time means there is a weak cell, or one far out of balance.

Pack starts tool but shuts off almost immediately, then will start again after 10 seconds - Usually overheating, or a variation of the above with a cell with high internal resistance causing extreme voltage drop when under load.

Pack has weird flashing lights on it - Typical of Ryobi, but some other brands also do it. It is usually a code of failure, generally it means overheated or voltage too low.

 

Construction of Packs:

Many of the different brands have batteries that are all the same, but with a slightly different case. Some creative use of a Dremel can often allow for crossover, but be careful or unintentional incendiary experiences may result. Most packs are held together by T10 security hex screws (they have a little dot in the middle of the head). Larger yardtool packs are often T15 security. Use a good bit, clean out debris from the head with a pick. These screws strip easily. There will also usually be a sticker covering the joint of the top and bottom of the pack. If you need to use a pry tool, use a plastic trim tool or similar non-metallic option until you know the pack well so that you don't short out the innards.

Inside the packs are rows of cylindrical cells (note: DeWalt Powerstack batteries are pouch cells. Don't mess with pouch cells if you aren't advanced!). Generally for anything labeled 18-22V there are 5 cells per row, and then these rows are stacked to give you more capacity. Your job is to get all these cells to the same charge level, then figure out if there is a cell that keeps dying. These cells have a nominal voltage of 3.6V, low voltage may vary from 2.5-3V, and the top voltage is 4.2V. Never let a cell go above 4.25V!!! Cells are happiest stored at 3.7V, don't leave them on a charger, don't leave them connected to a tool, don't let them freeze, don't leave them in a hot car/laying in the sun for long.

The cells all have a positive and negative end, with the important note that the entire metal shell of the cell case is the negative! If there is a puncture in the wrapping of the cell know that metal is the negative the same as the end of the cell. The positive end will have a dip, and an insulating ring around the 3-4 "legs" that connect to the positive end of the cell. Do not stick metal pieces in here as you will cause a short very easily! Each cell (or pair of cells, if there are parallel rows making up a battery of more than 2.5Ah) will have a balancing wire going to the circuit board on the battery pack. One end of the pack will be the total positive (red wire) and one will be total negative (black, copper, or just plain wire). The pack with the purple cells is from a DeWalt, the Green are from a Ryobi. Both colors are made by LG. Don't worry about the consumer warning on the purple cells, that's from a lawsuit with some Vapers who liked to carry these loose in their pockets with their keys... The Ryobi pack I already stripped off the connections between the cells to show the positive end clearly.

Diagnosing the Issue: 

First, is your charger plugged in? Is the battery firmly and correctly attached? Is there a buildup of dirt/debris, or can you see obvious damage to some part? Ok, on the outside you should see a "B+ and B-" terminal for your battery. If you can't see any markings, it's generally the 2 outermost or opposite terminals. Put in your probes, see if you get a reading. Sometimes you have to use a little piece of scrap metal to stick out if your probes are too large. Occasionally there is more than 1 terminal (Looking at you, Flexvolt). Make sure you don't short something! If you are getting a reading of between 5-15V, you probably just need to charge the battery up to 18-20V and the charger will like it. You can "jump" a low pack with a good pack to do this if you don't have a power supply. Ideally, you open the pack up however and see what the individual cells are reading.

 

bbbbRASS
bbbbRASS Reader
5/6/25 6:32 p.m.

Ryobi 18V packs:

This is a good breakdown of the disassembly and testing of the packs. He has some rather sketchy methods with the electronics though...

Toolboy has a great site for Ryobi batteries!

I advise checking for voltage at the regular pack/tool terminal posts, then checking at the ends of the cell assembly. This lets you know if the BMS has shut off for protection if they are different readings.

Once you check the pack as a whole, check the individual cells. Hopefully there is voltage so you can see which ends are positive and negative. If not, the positive end looks like this.

Check each cell to make sure it is above 2.5V, and that all the cells are within 0.3V of each other. If this isn't the case, you need to charge each cell individually to 4.2V before going any further.

If the pack has flashing lights on it, or the tool terminal post voltage is still different from the pack ends voltage after the cells are all charged you will need to reset the BMS.

This is showing the 18V reset pin for the older packs. You jump the RST to the pack ground after charging the individual cells.

 

Newer model pack, getting recharged. The newer BMS will drain the cells as "protection" and only let you try to reset them once. Notice the proper Power Supply if you are doing much of this work, and the magnets on the end of the leads that make moving them between cells quick and easy. You charge cells by connecting them to the opposite ends of the cells, and magnets make it easy since the clips don't have much room. You want to use only 150mAh of current if below 3V on the cell. Once over 3V you can use current that is less than 50% of the listed cell capacity (so 1A for a 2Ah battery cell, 2A for a 4Ah cell...). Same current limits if working with a whole pack. Once you are at 15V total you can raise current.

If this still doesn't succeed, you can try a trick of putting the pack in a refrigerator (not freezer!) for at least 4 hours, then let it get back to room temp for at least as long as it was chilling. Then repeat the reset process (if your voltage is still holding steady). 

You may find a cell that will not charge fully, drops in voltage quickly, or gets hot when charging. You can also identify these cells by using a 4-wire internal resistance tester. These cells will need to be replaced, and we will cover that in a more advanced section.

 

bbbbRASS
bbbbRASS Reader
5/6/25 6:32 p.m.

holding for DeWalt

 

This was physical damage from a factory spot weld. Very uncommon.

bbbbRASS
bbbbRASS Reader
5/7/25 10:43 a.m.

Held for the 40V Ryobi batteries

wvumtnbkr
wvumtnbkr GRM+ Memberand UltimaDork
5/7/25 10:46 a.m.

 I love how you are demonstrating this inside your electric automobile.  Lolz.

 

Also, thanks for doing this!

 

 

AWSX1686 (Forum Supporter)
AWSX1686 (Forum Supporter) GRM+ Memberand UberDork
5/14/25 2:10 p.m.

Interesting info, thanks for sharing!

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