How to wire a race car | Project vintage race Mustang

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Update by Tim Suddard to the Ford Mustang Fastback project car
Aug 5, 2022 | Ford, Vintage Race Cars, Mustang, Vintage Racing, Holley, Ron Francis Wiring, National Parts Depot

Now to tie together our Mustang’s electrical system and wire up the car.

We started with a Bare Bonz Race wiring kit from Ron Francis Wiring–list price is $329.95, or you can get it for $323.35 from Summit Racing.

Jessie Spiker of Spiker Motorsports has wired a lot of race cars. He says this is a great solution for a basic race car with a carburetor and minimal lights and accessories.

The kit includes everything you need except a switch panel. We used the Express Series Switch Panel (part No. SP-70, retail price of $149.95) from Ron Francis Wiring: six switches with corresponding lights in a nice blank panel that includes labels that we could tailor to our needs. We even made a little mount for ours.

The cool thing about the Bare Bonz wiring harness: It allows you to control which wires go where while running circuits only as needed. No need to modify the stock harness.

The Bare Bonz panel includes three relays and eight fused circuits with plenty of color-coded and printed wires. The kit also comes with detailed instructions for how to wire your alternator, distributor, coil, dash and gauges.

And it's sophisticated enough to include headlights, driving lights, rain lights and taillights.

We kept the stock Mustang headlight switch, as they aren't considered problematic and are easy to replace at shops like National Parts Depot.

Once we'd run wires to everything from the fuel gauge sending unit at the rear of the car to the cooling fan and thermostatically controlled electric fan at the front, we wrapped them with a product Jessie turned us on to: Holley EFI wire loom. This easy-to-use, flame-retardant loom comes in sizes from 5/16- to ¾-inch in 10-foot lengths. Summit Racing has it in stock starting at $35.23 per package.

We used a Wilwood brake light switch, a Cartek Motorsport battery isolator (and kill switch), and a rain light from Lifeline.

We have a couple more things to wire, and then we'll make a wiring diagram and clearly label the fuse box. We'll keep the diagram with us in our racing logbook should we run into electrical problems at the track.

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