My 2002 Tii is still a few years from being roadworthy and I was getting the itch to get back on the track. I found a deal on a Mustang that was far less than the price of the performance parts already installed and bought it on a lark. I flew to Texas with some spare parts/tools and drove it home to Seattle via the Southwest. Boy, there is a lot of desert in this country. Since then I’ve completely gone through the suspension, interior and engine. It’s been a lot of fun working on it, and it’s payed off with a nice track car that is pretty fast and well sorted. I don’t have too much into it (not counting all the labor) but It’s a bit faster on track than an E46 M3, so it’s pretty good bang for the buck. See below for the long list of modifications. I’m an engineer by training and it’s an interesting challenge to get a nose heavy sedan with bad suspension and small fenderwells to handle well. I use it for open track days, autocrossing, and even a little drag racing. It’s a rough, noisy, god-awful road car, but it’s comfortable enough to drive it to the track. Modifications Drivetrain: The engine has a freshened stock bottom end with a reasonably well matched set of top-end parts. It should be good for about 360HP. A lot of the engine mods were already in place when I got the car, saving me a lot of money. Be Cool Aluminum radiator A/C removed with power steering relocator Flex-A-Lite black magic fan Underdrive pulleys BBK cold air intake C&L 76 mm mass air sensor BBK 70 mm throttle body Professional products 75 mm EGR spacer TFS Track Heat intake manifold Adjustable fuel pressure regulator FMS 30 lb injectors AFR 165 street legal heads FMS E303 cam Scorpion 1.6 roller rockers Timing advanced to 15 degrees BBK 1 5/8 long tube headers BBK 2 1/2 inch Catalytic H-pipe Flowmaster American Thunder 2 1/2 inch cat-back exhaust Double roller timing chain 190 lph fuel pump Compact starter FMS clutch Pro5.0 shifter with custom handle for better reach FMS aluminum driveshaft 3.73 gears Body: Weight savings, safety equipment, and bracing Battery relocated to rear seat area Maximum Motorsports bolt in roll bar with diagonal brace Rear seat removed Performance Seats Corbeau 4-point harnesses Pedal spacer for heel/toe Rolled fender lips Partial sound deadener removal Maximum Motorsports strut tower brace Maximum Motorsports G-load brace (modified to clear headers) Maximum Motorsports weld-in subframe connectors Suspension/Brakes: The front suspension has extended lower ball joints to keep the front roll center height reasonable despite being lowered. It also has a bump-steer kit to keep it pointed in the right direction. The rear suspension has a panhard bar for lateral location and roll center control, relocated lower control arms for additional anti-squat, and adjustable spring perches for setting corner weights. AGR steering rack Urethane steering rack bushings Bump steer kit Steeda extended ball joints Prothane offset front control arm bushings KYB AGX shocks/struts FMS 5300-b lowering springs Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates Urethane front sway bar bushings Urethane front sway bar end-links Braces welded to front control arm bushing area Pro 3 adjustable rear lower control arms FMS heavy duty rear upper control arms Maximum Motorsports panhard bar Vibration damper removed from rear axle Home-made lower control arm relocation brackets to improve anti-squat Bear racing 12 inch 4-lug brake kit (includes adjustable prop valve) Hawk HP Plus brake pads Factory proportioning valve plug (to disable) 2003 Cobra 4-lug 17x9” wheels Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 255/40ZR17 tires What’s next? I’m not sure. I really need to stop playing with this car and just use it. I should by spending my time on my other projects, but if I do change anything, it would be this: Maximum Motorsports adjustable rear sway bar. Modify the front K-frame to relocate the inner end of the control arms. Coil over kit for the front. Brake cooling ducts. Megasquirt or Tweecer for ECU tuning 347 bottom end for the engine.

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