1967 International COE, Small Adventure

In reply to java230:

The steering box still looks like the one on mine? Large lines on the right go to and from the power steering pump, the smaller lines on the left to the hydraulic assist cylinder, arm the size of my arm dropping off the bottom left?
What's wrong with yours?

I LOVE having parts in the Grosh. I can sneak out and play with stuff for 20 minutes at a time and pretend like I was pooping and nobody is the wiser.
Stuff is dirty. I think the oil bath filter was fogging the whole top of the motor, and then South Dakota dust got stuck on everything. The only positive is that the crust is old enough that the majority of it scrapes off.
Dry crust is easier to clean up than wet crust because you can just vacuum it up. As I made my way through the gunk I noticed something cast into the top of the intake manifold. I HAD to scrub it off to see what it was.
This is where you old timers tell me that everyone used to cast the firing order into the top of the intake manifold, but I've never seen it, and I think it's cool. Don't need to pull out the manual, and to make things even easier, every runner has the cylinder cast into it. This is #5 I pretty much have to keep this motor now.

I miss that feature. Unfortunately most aftermarket intakes dont have it anymore.

In reply to mazdeuce:

Nope looks a bit different. No ram, just a box and pitman arm.

It stopped working.... Seal at the steering shaft is toast, it cuts in and out randomly and pukes huge amounts of fluid. And these are serious parts bin trucks, no one knows what's supposed to be on it to find a new one.

International was very much like AMC by the time your truck was built. A little of this, a little of that. It must be a box from someone, just need to get the internet on it and figure out what.

I'll bet when you get to the timing marks zero will be labeled and the normal setting will also stand out somehow. The dip stick might tell you how many quarts or what weight oil to use.

In reply to oldopelguy: BWahahahaaahahaha snork!!!

Fun fact! When IHC went tits-up in the consumer truck market, their supply of TF 727 transmissions was bought by Rover. They were factory installed into Range Rovers for a few years behind 3.5 V-8's using an adapter plate.

Nick (Bo) Comstock wrote:

Ransom wrote: In reply to Cotton: I think I had that Stomper when I was 10. Having a real one would just be... I can't even get my head around it. For those who don't know them, it was a lot like this (this link says Freightliner; in my head I had a Peterbilt; I don't know how close to accurate any of them were...)

I had one. Those tires have a unique smell, and taste, kinda sweet.

Evocative, huh? Funny thing is, I went for a long bike ride today, and among the mental flotsam and jetsam that always floats through, I remembered that smell!

mazdeuce wrote: I LOVE having parts in the Grosh. I can sneak out and play with stuff for 20 minutes at a time and pretend like I was pooping and nobody is the wiser. Stuff is dirty. I think the oil bath filter was fogging the whole top of the motor, and then South Dakota dust got stuck on everything. The only positive is that the crust is old enough that the majority of it scrapes off. Dry crust is easier to clean up than wet crust because you can just vacuum it up. As I made my way through the gunk I noticed something cast into the top of the intake manifold. I HAD to scrub it off to see what it was. This is where you old timers tell me that everyone used to cast the firing order into the top of the intake manifold, but I've never seen it, and I think it's cool. Don't need to pull out the manual, and to make things even easier, every runner has the cylinder cast into it. This is #5 I pretty much have to keep this motor now.

The TBI 350 in my '89 Suburban has the firing order cast into the manifold, so it's not that old...

Firing order is the same, too. I've worked on so many Chevy SB's that I have it memorized...

In any case, very neat stuff. Part of me wants to see a big block Mopar in there, though. A 440 out of a motorhome would motivate it along quite nicely.

In reply to Recon1342:

I was going to be all snarky and point out that and 89 Suburban is 28 years old and qualifies for antique plates here in Texas, but.....that says more about the cars I've owned than how old an 89 is. Thinking about it, I still own every V8 I've ever bought, and it's only four.

Mr Deuce, I can personally vouch for the Acetone/ATF mix and how well it works. Over the years I've used pretty much every product out there, including the real expensive ones. The 50/50 mixture works the best.

I keep mine in a nice little 12 dollar (Made in USA) squirt can.

click here to find it at Amazon

Another little comment too, if you'll indulge me. That picture of the hammer and razor blades made me chuckle. You're no longer in the land of German exotic engine parts. On an engine like that big cast iron lump, to unstick the head, you drop the end of a long prybar down into one of the intake ports and jerk on it, and the head will pop off the block. You don't have to worry about injuring the cylinder head. You could drop it out of an airplane and it wouldn't hurt it. These things are built bombproof and you have to take on a bit of a knuckle dragging old school mechanic mentality.

Interestingly enough, Ford and Chevy small blocks have the same firing order. The cylinders are just numbered differently.

In this case, the firing order is the identical, but the cylinders appear to be numbered differently. So even though the numerical sequence is the same, it does in fact have a different order. LOL

Crackers wrote: Interestingly enough, Ford and Chevy small blocks have the same firing order. The cylinders are just numbered differently. In this case, the firing order is the identical, but the cylinders appear to be numbered differently. So even though the numerical sequence is the same, it does in fact have a different order. LOL

That's almost correct. There are two different reasonable firing orders for 90 degree v8 engines with cross plane cranks. Ford used both of the at one time or another. It seems like there are more because different manufacturers use a different numbering scheme.

Plenty of old engines have ben freed up well enough to run again and it would be cool neat to see you get it broken loose and running again. If not and the truck is going to be mostly to putter around town I think I would lean towards replacing it with another IH motor as a swap to something else will add headaches I don't know I'd want to bother with unless there was a huge improvement to be had.

Once you tire of that and succumb to peer pressure I would consider a 6V92t, moved back out from under the cab to help balance the truck, hooked to an Allison and a transfer case with 2 1/2ton Rockwells at each end.

In reply to Wall-e: rollin' coal bro rollin' coal....hell yeah!!! Mazd everyone near you has Cummins or a Navistar....step your game up! And now Mazd will reply (or not) esplainin' that he's digesting this tear down at his leisure (patience everyone).

While I am being leisurely (as usual) I had proper work to do today. Mrs. Deuce had to go look at office spaces and I got to be her cheufer/gentleman in waiting. We had fun hanging out and sneaking into vacant offices.
Eventually we ran out of places to look at without appointments and headed home so I could play with the cabover. First I pulled the clutch. I've seen worse.
Then I used the hoist to keep my toes attached to my feet while pulling the flywheel. The bearing in the middle of the flywheel (the pilot bearing, yes?) looks like it once had a spacer behind it. Now it has metal chunks behind it. I feel like that's not right. Out with the engine! This is probably the fifth engine I've pulled, and the first one I've taken out the top.
The cement slab I'm working on has a couple of significant imperfections.
These made me have to put the engine on the stand to get the weight off the hoist so I could move the wheels over the bump and then pick the engine back up. At least I'm not working in the dirt. Of course I can't pick it up high enough to just load the stand so it has to sit in the bed. Strapped down tight for the fifty yard journey. Engine and transmission unloaded and ready for me to work on them. I need to organize a bit. I feel like I juuuuuust got the R63 parts cleaned up.

In reply to Wall-e:

That's the general plan. Try to fix this. See how it goes (they only need some compression on most cylinders I bet) and go from there. If a swap happens it might as well be interesting and involve two drive axles.

In reply to 759NRNG:

Our buses ran Detroits without much smoking while still making plenty of power and noise.

And since nobody wants to see me stick something in a dirty hole, I'm going to need to pick your brains about frame prep and painting. The frame is currently a mix of lightly crusty rust and factory paint. Doesn't need to be show car finish, but I'd like it to look decent as it's pretty easy to see. Also, it's going to be nigh on impossible to paint it all at once, so something that blends well between sections would be nice.

I used to brush rustoleum on my flatbed. It looked ok and I could touch it up easy when needed.

POR15!!!!! goes over the nasty stuff really well

In reply to Wall-e: I'm sneaking this in on MazD's thread ....in this part of Texas(we live maybe 40miles apart as the crow flies) there are copious amounts of over amped diesel PU's...with most sportin' any kind
coal rollin' device to basically Peeoff the little people. Sootinyurface.com (not real)

Clean, de-grease, rattle can prime, then rustoleum from the quart can. If you want the nicest finish, run it through the $39 Wagner power painter, straight or thinned about 3:1 paint to thinner.

(Also the recipe for flatbeds and trailers.)

In reply to mazdeuce: Here deucelings Daddy has a allowance($$) project awaiting y'all (after your home work). Grab a brush and go....yes I know it's hot out here...quit your complaining....I'm sweatin' too