What is up my dudes.
long time watcher, first time poster.
This will be a project log + motivator for my MGB. A few other projects either belonging to me, my dad, or friends will probably pop up along the way.
This is my 1969 MGB GT.
Originally British Racing Green it was repainted a champagne pink sometime in the 80's and eventually sprayed a phenomenal Baby Food Yellow in the early 2000's by some of Maaco's finest.
Here it is in its natural habitat.
99% joking. Both tow truck trips were a result of me not checking the fuel filter for crud. A new 16 gallon tank and fresh filter had it running great.
Brake rebuild
Met up with Tanny from the MGEXP forums and he showed how a well sorted MG can perform. Really cool dude, we got lunch and had a 3 hour conversation and haven't talked since.
Here's his video with Matt Farah https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JOBGQKHxPLs
With by buddy's Miata powered Opel that has since been sold and wrapped sideways around a pole.
I purchased the car for $3500 in 2020. I was looking at Mustangs and Corvairs but my then girlfriend's dad was into MG's so when this popped up I grabbed it for the brownie points. Said GF liked to mix other dudes with her drinks so that relationship ended and I lost motivation to work on the car but liked it too much to sell. After a few months of driving it around it got parked next to the garage where it has sat ever since.
For a while the plan was to do a 302 with 4 webers on top of a miata suspension swap. Removing the heater and massaging the firewall a bit would have let me push it way back in the engine bay giving plenty of clearance with a stock miata subframe.
But, if more power is better then why stop at a 302, right?
An LS3 actually fits in there pretty dang nice.
After comparing P/W ratios with supercars, considering my driving capabilities, watching some 60's crash tests, thinking about how much I like working the gearbox and how little I like speeding tickets, I decided against those options.
The current plan is to rewire the car, strip the paint, do a basic tune up on the current engine, then run around in it for a few months. Meanwhile I can start collecting parts for a...
2.0 Ecoboost swap! (Thanks to enginenerd for the 2.0 and engine bay scans)
It's not as cool as a 4 stack Weber 302 and not as radical as an LS3 but it should retain more of the sports car feel that I really enjoy about the MG while still pushing out plenty of power.
Here is where we are right now.
Stripping the paint was an absolute chore. the non MEK paint strippers wouldn't touch it and it was gumming up sandpaper after 30 seconds so I had to take drastic measures.
Thankfully that dirt pile is only 5% rust, most of it is just road grime and dirt that sits on the handy shelf Morris engineers included.
Here is my first ever patch panel/sheet metal weld.
Fit up wasn't nearly tight enough but it's good enough for me. Grinder + DA + a little hammer work finished it off nicely.
There are 2 other rust spots in the usual spots where the wings attach but they're honestly not bad.
I'm going to replace the bolts with some stainless hardware and coat the whole thing with some undercoat when it goes back together.
My next step is fixing up the hood.
I wish I had stocked up on some 50 gallon barrels of paint stripper prior to the MEK ban because the current stuff just does not work. I ended up using the paint stripping drum on the Harbor Freight Surface Conditioning Tool (definitely not made in the same factory as the Eastwood SCT) and it worked phenomenally. I was worried about damaging the aluminum initially but it barely scratched it.
After following up with 220 DA -> scotchbrite drum on the SCT.
Side note - The SCT is probably my favorite tool ever, you should buy one.
Now I need you all to prepare yourselves to see a 5th degree black belt bondo master's work.
I joke with friends about finding a half inch of bondo when anything has more than a skim coat, this was honestly impressive.
The aluminum is definitely work hardened in this area so it's going to be a pain to get it back in shape.
Now I need to remove the front section of the hood/bonnet's frame to get access to the damaged skin.
The first step is to start drilling out the spot welds holding the pieces together, the second step is to realize you literally just bought a spot weld drill and you just doubled the work on reassembly...
There we go.
Checking with a sharpie/some sandpaper on a backer.
Dykem then the first pass with a slapper/dolly
2nd pass with slapper/dolly.
3rd pass
Those small divots aren't from me, it looks like the previous owner went at it with a shrinking disc and a framing hammer before remembering he had 2 gallons of body filler.
I'm avoiding the areas to the side of the center hump since there's so much deformation there. I want to have the surrounding area sorted so I can focus on just slowly popping that up.
I'm going to finish the top of the hood tomorrow and then worry about re-forming the front lip. The frame is warped as well so I'll have to beat that into shape once the skin is done.
Also, I am 100% self taught/youtube university when it comes to panel beating so if you see anything I'm doing wrong or that could be done better please let me know
The old armstrong shocks were absolutely shot, I purchased remanufactured ones.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EwziV_fuFs
I wanted a better steering wheel but the 68 and 69 MGB's have a funky spline and the only hub adapters at the time were for moto-lita wheels which have a massive center hub.
Absolutely garish proportions. Grotesque, rotund, unsightly, generally unpleasant to look at or even be in the same room with it.
So I modified the hub and made an adapter for 70 and 74 mm PCD wheels.
CAD pics since I don't feel like going outside right now.
The holes in the side are for bolts since I didn't have a TIG welder at the time. The plan was alum-bond + bolts and the just never yank on the wheel too hard.
A custom hub needs a custom wheel, right?
I saw this wheel in an article about a MOMO wheel anniversary party. It was in some multi-million dollar ferrari but I couldn't find any info about the wheel so I made one. The top and bottom of the steering wheel sandwich will be leather wrapped leaving the aluminum ring exposed on the perimeter. It'll burn my hands a bit in the summer but it'll look cool so it balances out.
Re-designed gauge cluster
I need to make a matching Smith's face for the round oil pressure gauge. I'm not completely sold on this layout and may end up just going with an older style B dash.
This custom finned side plate looks really cool! I'm glad I spent 2 days on it!
Those manifolds covered a lot more than I thought. Oh well, it'll look nice when it's polished along with the intake.
If I was going to keep the stock engine I would either get this cast or make a 5 piece weld-together setup.
Now you may have noticed I didn't put paint on my to-do list after strip the paint. I'm thinking something like this would look awesome.
Scotchbrite, wax, and then gibbs lubricant rubbed in keeps it rust free. A brushed finish on the aluminum hood with a black nose
But I'm torn between that and a nice Porsche Irish Green. BRG generally has too much blue hue in it for my taste. It reminds me of the acrylic paint you use in pre-school
I think I'll finish stripping the paint and see how I feel about it.