1994 Volvo 850 Turbo Sport Wagon Non-project/Project Daily Driver (Bruce Banner)

My Volvo 850 Turbo Sport Wagon is my daily drive, and is not supposed to be a project car, but there is always room for improvements.

The Volvo 850 Turbo

Here’s my 1994 Volvo 850 Turbo. His name is Bruce Banner. The photo makes the paint look better than it is.

The Goal Of A Have A Fun Daily Drive, That Was Cost Effective

When I purchased the car it was not making boost, but the sell as all hyped about how much power the car had. I seller said the car was his wife’s, but based on some his comments he was a car flipper – like his insistence the car had 178K miles on it, when the odometer didn’t work, and the title noted 178K the prior year. He was bragging the he was impressed with the power -- on that specific day, as if he had never driven it before. I asked if it has had any check engine lights, he said yes, and they that a sensor was changed. But, late I realized the check engine light neve illuminated. That fact led me to believe that the bulb had been removed. I forgot to check the bulb when I had the dash off…but next time I have it off I will look into it.

Getting Started

My first mission was to change the timing belt and coolant system. Volvo 850s and 70s are known for coolant system issues. So, I changed all of it, including the bulkhead connector and the heater core.

The second think I did was to change the PCV system, which is another weak point in the these models

Thirdly, the control arms and strut top mount were shot, so I replace those so that the car could drive in a straight line without my need to saw at the wheel…like I was drunk.

Then I need to find out why the car was not producing boost, since it ran well. The reasons boiled down to multiple leaking vacuum lines. I went through and replace all of them. So the car then made around 7psi of boost.

The Modifications

Then the fun began. I start to up the boost with some mods:

Improving Boost

1.) Japan turbo manifold from a new model Volvo Turbo. This manifold is known to flow better than the stock 850 manifold

2.) Volvo 16T turbo

3.) 3” down pipe, that I custom-made

4.) 3” exhaust to let the turbo breath better (high flow cat)

Here is the Grassrootsist-thing about this. The mods that I listed cost me less than $200.

While I was doing those mods, I added a boost gauge and a wide-band O2 sensor to keep track of the engine’s health and performance.

Comparing boost performance with the new mods, there was a good improvement in boost production and spool up.

Spool up after 16T turbo upgrade

5.) I make a manual boost controller to build more boost. The target boost level was 14psi. Stock is said to be 7-8psi for the 1994 850 @222hp. So, this is about doubling the boost pressure. I know that mathematically that should be close to 400hp, but I know that efficiencies and other aspects of power production won’t equate like that.

Here’s a look at how the mods impacted boost performance:

Boost Mods Compared

The I 5 Sounds

The sound the 5 cylinder makes is interesting and unique…I would say a cross between am I4, I6 and a H4:

I5 850 Volvo Sounds

On the Road Sounds

After that exhaust, I make a dual exit pipe because I thought it was more aggressive looking. I like that staid appearance of the Volvo, with the sporty looking exhaust

Solid Motor Mounts

The stock rubber mounts were torn apart, so I trying to fill them with silicone, which worked for a while but didn’t last. So, I make a solid mounts for the top mount.

Intake Modifications

I noticed that the car seemed to be choked a bit at WOT, so I want to improve the ability for the turbo to suck in the air it needed. Here’s what I did for that, but one thing I failed to mention in the video is that I added in an air straightener in order to keep air velocities up with the larger 3” intake. I will build a shroud around the filter to stop the hot air from entering the intake.

Now I can hear the turbo spool up and the recirculation valve…recirculating.

Custom Intake Modification

Wheel Spacers

I installed wheel space on the back to help the look of the track. The stock wheels were tuck way inboard. The rear track was narrower than the front, so wheel spaces evened things out.

I love these cars. I still miss my 1996 850 Turbo but it had to go to make room... I think they handle way better than they have any right to.

Nice project. Congratulations on the low spend too.

IPD swaybars and koni shocks really help with the handling department.

Yes. They have the passive rear steering, which will help

dculberson wrote: I love these cars. I still miss my 1996 850 Turbo but it had to go to make room... I think they handle way better than they have any right to.

Those are next on my list

brad131a4 wrote: IPD swaybars and koni shocks really help with the handling department.

Thanks!

conesare2seconds wrote: Nice project. Congratulations on the low spend too.

Great car, I had a yellow T5R. Used it to tow my race car, that poor car had a hard life. Not sure if you know about the little delta link brackets, they basically mount the rear suspension and they fall apart. Might want to replace those when doing the shocks.

I didn't know about the delta links, but they are on my list now Thanks

TED_fiestaHP wrote: Great car, I had a yellow T5R. Used it to tow my race car, that poor car had a hard life. Not sure if you know about the little delta link brackets, they basically mount the rear suspension and they fall apart. Might want to replace those when doing the shocks.

From under the car if you look up at the rear suspension, the suspension looks like two large triangles. The delta link part, it is like a bushing type mount that mounts one corner of each triangle. It is aluminum with a bushing and the bushing has a steel sleeve. The steel sleeve will rust and expand, that will cause the aluminum to break away. The dealer had examples on display... If I recall they were not real expensive, but not real fun to replace. I always thought it would be fun to take a base turbo model and make a car better than the T5R, which is what your doing....

Another 850 owner. I can tell you from experience, if you do the delta link replacement yourself, go OEM or Lemforder (most OE Volvo parts are made by Lemforder and just packaged in a blue box with a much higher price tag) and avoid Scantech parts. In fact it's a good rule of thumb to avoid Schantech parts all together, there's the rare exception, but it's easier just to avoid them.

They can be replaced without the delta link tool, I know, I've seen me do it, but if I do it again I'll be buying, borrowing, or fabricating my own version. I didn't have near the tool arsenal I do now, or a welder back when I did my first DIY delta link replacement.

Good stuff to know. I have found that non-Volvo parts are trouble and not cost effective. I will be looking for a delta link tool. I looked this up after TED_fiestaHP called it to my attention.

bigdaddylee82 wrote: Another 850 owner. I can tell you from experience, if you do the delta link replacement yourself, go OEM or Lemforder (most OE Volvo parts are made by Lemforder and just packaged in a blue box with a much higher price tag) and avoid Scantech parts. In fact it's a good rule of thumb to avoid Schantech parts all together, there's the rare exception, but it's easier just to avoid them. They can be replaced without the delta link tool, I know, I've seen me do it, but if I do it again I'll be buying, borrowing, or fabricating my own version. I didn't have near the tool arsenal I do now, or a welder back when I did my first DIY delta link replacement.

Cool ride man! I have a '98 V70 T5. Bought it from a buddy who already did a manual swap. Had fun driving the hell out of it then burned an exhaust valve but still drove it for a while after that with only 4 1/2 cylinders (I know... Stupid me but tough motors).

Eventually I found a "Craigslist special" rebuilt vvt head from an '02 (I think) and swapped it with the vvt disconnected since mine is a non vvt car. Other than the head and manual swap, everything's still stock.

Yea, delta links are supposed to be awful without the tool. That's actually why I ended up dumping my last 850 (well, that and my dad offered me a sweet deal on his super clean E36.)

I think I've still got a set of rear Konis kicking around my garage. If you're interested, they could be had for a very reasonable price.

Furious_E wrote: Yea, delta links are supposed to be awful without the tool. That's actually why I ended up dumping my last 850 (well, that and my dad offered me a sweet deal on his super clean E36.) I think I've still got a set of rear Konis kicking around my garage. If you're interested, they could be had for a very reasonable price.

I recall my version of removal procedure involving a Rube Goldberg-esque assortment of ratchet straps, a come-a-long, and MAPP torch.

Putting the new ones in weren't too bad, it's taking the old ones out that's a real booger.

IIn reply to driver109x:

I want a manual in this thing!

bigdaddylee82 wrote:

Furious_E wrote: Yea, delta links are supposed to be awful without the tool. That's actually why I ended up dumping my last 850 (well, that and my dad offered me a sweet deal on his super clean E36.) I think I've still got a set of rear Konis kicking around my garage. If you're interested, they could be had for a very reasonable price.

I recall my version of removal procedure involving a Rube Goldberg-esque assortment of ratchet straps, a come-a-long, and MAPP torch. Putting the new ones in weren't too bad, it's taking the old ones out that's a real booger.

I am interested in a set of Konica. Email me: vazfx16@hotmail.com If you still have them

Furious_E wrote: Yea, delta links are supposed to be awful without the tool. That's actually why I ended up dumping my last 850 (well, that and my dad offered me a sweet deal on his super clean E36.) I think I've still got a set of rear Konis kicking around my garage. If you're interested, they could be had for a very reasonable price.