71 Karmann Ghia ej22

I wouldn’t mind doing this to the Baja bug in my avatar.

This belongs to a friend of mine.  He and his uncle have done several Subaru into VW swaps.

Here is where I stand with my ej swap. 

I love that you still have the stock air box. How much power are you looking to put to the ground? I can't imagine anything close to ~200 BHP would be controllable or friendly in a car that weighs so little.

Very cool!

Not a very exciting update. Made couple cuts in the tunnel to weld on the new clutch tube. To bad my tube got delayed in shipping and wont be here until Monday.

GIRTHQUAKE said:

I love that you still have the stock air box. How much power are you looking to put to the ground? I can't imagine anything close to ~200 BHP would be controllable or friendly in a car that weighs so little.

It's all stock, les the catalytic converters, with an eBay header and a turbo muffler. I doubt it'll have much more than the factory rated 135. It is drivable now, but I only have 52% throttle opening due to the ratios in the VW pedal and the Subaru throttle body. Even so it scoots pretty good. Fixing the throttle pull is one of the things on my list to complete. 

The current goal is to make it a reliable daily driver with heat for the cold mornings. Once that has been accomplished I'll go into making it stop and turn better, then cleaning up the install and more power. I'm pretty close to the first of those goals.

Wife and I worked on cleaning the ej22 up. A lot better than it was. 

Before 

Here is after. If anyone knows a magic cleaner let me know. We use purple power for the nasty first clean then dawn after that. 

Cotton said:

I wouldn’t mind doing this to the Baja bug in my avatar.

I actually bought the 94 legacy donor to use in a Baja bug about 5-6 years ago. Ended up selling the baja as a roller and have had this engine and trans laying around since. Have not started the engine since it was pulled out of the donor. It was a 1994 legacy that had been rolled over and only had about 130k on it.. 

We got the flexplate off and cleaned off the rear of the engine. Got the adapter plate and flywheel on. Then realized I never ordered bolts for the pressure plate. 

Since we couldn't put the clutch together. We moved onto replacing the broken clutch return spring on the trans. 

If you plan on using the stock trans mount, and it is the same as a type 1, you are going to run into an interference issue with the 2 lower adapter plate to engine bolt heads.

They will hit the rubber mounts, holding the engine away from the transmission.  Apparently there is additional machining needed on the adapter. Acording to Kennedy the lower holes need to be "back cut"  I never got the full details as their machining guy was on vacation and it would be 2 weeks if I sent it back to them before they would be able to do it. I was on vacation too, so I could get this together. I could not wait.I went to the local machine shop. They counter bored it 1/4 of an inch, aI think and I took 1/8 maybe 3/16th an inch off the bolt heads. This is for the lower 2 only. 

If you watch the mcm sleeper vid, you will see they have flush fitting lower bolts. 

The issue:

For some reason my phone is not letting me post mutiple pics, the fix in next post. 

PS: you meed to use a nonshoulder bolt.  The one in the pic will not work once counterbored/sunk. 

In reply to lrrs :

Weird that I have never heard of that issue. Not saying that its not one, just that I haven't heard anyone mention it. 

But I plan on running a raised front mount to lift up the trans and engine. Then making a plate to mount the subbie mounts too. 

Kinda like this one, except it wont have a subbie trans attached to the motor. 

In reply to lrrs :

I'm assuming "shoulder bolt" is mistakenly replacing the term "flange bolt", but either way, can you go into detail as to why one cannot be used in a counter sunk hole? 

Crackers said:

In reply to lrrs :

I'm assuming "shoulder bolt" is mistakenly replacing the term "flange bolt", but either way, can you go into detail as to why one cannot be used in a counter sunk hole? 

Edit now that I am at a real keyboard:
The shoulder now passes through the plate (see second pic from previous posts) and bottoms out before the head does due to the counter sunk hole on the plate  They did provide shorter, fully threaded bolts with the adapter plate as part of the kit, I assume for the "back cut" plates.

Here is another shot of the bolt hitting the rubber transmission mount. Subaru engine to the left, adapter plate, beetle trans mount to the right.

This shot may clear things up a bit. You can see the imprint of the plate bolt head on the rubber of the beetle trans mount. Beetle trans to the left, the round piece to the right is the frame horn (I think that's what the ACVW folk call it) The square tube at the bottom is part of the Kelmark body support, for those familiar with beetles and possibly toughing you off.  I should also state this is an IRS transaxle, I cant say  if the back cut is needed for swing axels cars.

If your trans mount is set back 1/4 an inch from the plane of the surface of the trans, then this is a non-issue.

Steve

Oh, I got you.

You mean he'll need a fully threaded bolt. 

A shoulder bolt is a different animal. 

I get what Irrs is saying now. I'm not running the stock trans mount, so that shouldn't be an issue for me. But thanks for the heads up and might help someone else doing this. 

Tap bolt, Din 933, whatever you want to use to describe a fully threaded bolt. I got what you were trying to say,  as long you don't ask for a metric bolt in inch lengths we are good. 

Didn't have a chance to work on it. Took the opportunity to finally burn my burn fire since it rained. 

As some one else who is also working on a Subaru powered ghia thanks for posting the sort of details that i know that i need to go look for. ( i have a 1968 swing axle ghia and have a ej 22 that i just started working on again)

What are your big picture plans,is it just swap in the subaru and just drive the car or are you planning on doing other changes? Do you have the whole swap planned out or are you still planning on how to things like the fuel system, the cooling system, reverse the intake manifold , cut down oil pan ect.

Now i just need to go start my own build thread and would love some ideas,feedback ect

Don't worry fan bois, its a rusty relic.

I hope at least the pan is sound...

In reply to Outlawghia :

I'm going to run two 3/8 lines in the tunnel after I weld in a clutch tube. I'm going to be  running a VW CIS style fuel pump. 

For cooling I'm going to running a Honda Civic radiator and fan. I'm going to get 1.5in tubing bent to follow the recess on the pan (where the pan bolts to the body)

There are a bunch of threads on flipping the intake around. I can link to one later if you want. 

For the oil pan. 

I'm going to raise the engine and trans some. Not going to raise it where I have to alter the pan. I will see what kind of clearance that gives me. Then go from there. There's a few companies out there selling modified pans. But I'm hoping to get by just with raising and maybe tilting some. 

In reply to Outlawghia :

Have you seen this guys? 

http://driving.ca/volkswagen/auto-news/entertainment/this-pavement-scraping-turbocharged-franken-ghia-is-the-coolest-winter-car-ever

We got the trans stabbed in place. We got the new clutch tube mocked up and just need to weld it in now. We didnt want to weld it in since we took out the factory tiny fuel line and dumped some gas in the tunnel. 

We did run into an issue with the shift rod. The parts car I got was a 67 and has the longer shift rod and won't work. So I'll had to modify the autostick shift rod couple to make it work instead. 

Next step is to weld up the clutch tube. Then mount the clutch setup. Adjust the throwout bearing. Then we can bolt the motor up to the trans and make a new mount plate