First order of business is going back over everything I touched last night. Then I'll run some more ground wires.
I'm going to replace the ignition switch then start the tedious process of rooting out an electrical gremlin.
First order of business is going back over everything I touched last night. Then I'll run some more ground wires.
I'm going to replace the ignition switch then start the tedious process of rooting out an electrical gremlin.
The thing that scares me about this car is it has tons of electrical connections and relays that are a complete mystery to me. That's why I replaced the air springs with coils and the TEVES system with a booster and master cylinder; familiarity.
It's never good when you're under the hood, dash or in the trunk and see a large, important looking thing with wires running in and sometimes out of it and you say to yourself, "I wonder what that does...".
At least the seat feels nice...
The game is afoot.
Looks like this was replaced in the not too distant past.
New ignition switch, no improvement.
$12.99
Still eliminating possibilities.
New voltage regulator, no improvement.
$21.99
I had the alternator tested and it read 13.7 volt output.
I'm going to either get a second opinion or just buy a new one to eliminate another variable.
New total = $971 (rounded up)
These are the problems that make me want to give up and sell the damn thing. Good luck.
In reply to nicksta43:
Me too. I'm busy making improvements and whop, how about a shot to the junk?
I wouldn't touch the alt. It's making enough voltage to charge the batter.
I'd get a timing light and have a friend crank the engine and watch the light to make sure something is or isn't happening at the plug. If things are happening, and it sounds like they aren't, then you have a fuel issue. If things aren't happening you go after the ignition. Right?
I looked for about 12 seconds and it looks like this is a really old school ignition with a ballast resister. Check that. Check the coil, what power it is receiving. If there's some sort of control module like a TFI module, pull it and have it tested.
From your write up over the last couple pages it sounds like current found a sneak path through... something. What, I can't tell, but even if the alt was fried only you would still be able to start the car. I would try to not disturb things any more than you have to, otherwise you lose control over your testing.
My 2 cents, someone check my logic, but I think it's sound. Backprobing connectors, using non-invasive checks, that sort of thing is probably going to help a lot in figuring this out.
I've been updating another website, I'll bring my GRM thread up to speed.
I replaced and added a few ground wires and the dash light weirdness went away.
I've been able to jump start it and it'll run just like it always has until I yank the battery cable off of the terminal. If I don't pull the cable it runs longer then the gauges start acting wonky, it sputters and dies; like it's just running off the battery.
Wondering about this;
http://thelincolnmarkviiclub.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=5889
Fusible link issues?
I hope it's not a fusible link...tracing those doesn't seem like a lot of fun.
I may have a lead. Apparently I might have to find a different spot for my mechanical gauges and put the warning light cluster back in.
I'll update with the results in a bit.
If that's not it, I'll start tracing wires...
It sounds like a fusable link to me too. I had a cavalier that had the heater fan leads connected backwards. Car ran like a top until I turned on the fan, then died completely. But mine wouldn't crank or anything, so you're that much further ahead.
the warning light cluster includes an idiot light labeled "amp". If that bulb is burned out, or some meat head like me removes the cluster, the charging system is disabled. How's that for an Achilles heel?
It's fixed now!
Jebus, that sucks. Well now you have it fixed. What if you wire a new "AMP" light between the gauges?
I don't know. There's some sort of primitive printed circuit on the back. I'm definitely no electrician!
I assume it would be that simple but I assumed I could just remove the idiot light cluster too!
Right now it's working and I don't want to mess it up. Kinda gun shy!
Jayne? Malcolm? Firefly?
In reply to m4ff3w:
Yep! We're big fans!
So the alternator is fine but it's not charging? This is the era where Fords need an operating idiot lig...
The_Jed wrote: the warning light cluster includes an idiot light labeled "amp". If that bulb is burned out or some meat head like me removes the cluster the charging system is disabled. How's that for an Achilles heel? It's fixed now!
... nevermind, beat me to it.
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