Love the build, read it from the beginning over the last couple of days.
The wiring module from Bussmann really intrigues me. I built a PDC for a Magnum swap using a Jeep box and plan to use it for my G3 Hemi swap now, but that box looks so much cleaner and has the bonus of plugs for connections. Really has my mind working.
Wish there was some documentation for it though.
oh, and I am late to the party but I vote for the Green/Black vinyl. But I might be biases.
Found this while looking for info on the Bussmann module:
https://www.connectorconcepts.com/eabumupodi.html
Looks like the same deal, but incorporates CanBUS controls. No idea how to control it, but it would be cool to run a twisted pair to the trunk and control the fuel pump, brake lights, tail lights and turn signals. Then add logic like flashing the brake lights 3 times before going solid would be cake. There are other systems that do the same thing, but tripping over things like this always take me back to ideas like that.
In reply to RacetruckRon :
This isn't a match for the module you have, but there is a datasheet in this link for the smaller one with wiring
Sometimes it is the datasheet and sometimes it is the product drawing, but both had wiring. Could not find wiring for the one you have anywhere.
In reply to DionR :
Those Bussmann panels are pretty neat and compact but I kinda dropped trying to make that one work for time and simplicity's sake. I might revisit it on a future project.
In reply to RacetruckRon :
Yep, I saw that you had moved past the idea of using that module, at least for now. Wasn't trying to slow you down or anything. I just get overly excited about new ideas like that and was tossing stuff out there if it help you or anyone else.
Keep at it. Really cool build.
In reply to DionR :
Thanks man, appreciate the love.
If you are looking to go down the Bussmann route, I bought wire terminals and the mating connectors off of Connector Concepts for pretty cheap
I think I'm done playing musical AN fittings now and have the pieces I need to put the hydraulics back together. I shimmed the TOB bearing 2.5mm by hot glueing some washers behind the internal slave cylinder. I'm not paying $25 per shim from Tick Performance.
I update the to-do list and broke some items up for if I get a heater installed this fall and can actually wrench this winter.
Clutch line dry break installed. No more of that OE style "quick connect" bullE36 M3 that needs the special tool I can never find. I also got a long enough line for the remote bleeder that it should be able to dunk right into the master reservoir for super easy clutch bleeding.
Is that an air hose chuck being used as a dry break?
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
The click clack interface is similar but it appears to actually be a dry break hydraulic connection. I've seen the same thing used on skid loaders and tractors just a couple sizes bigger for hydraulic attachments.
Power washer has similar fittings and they are good for over 3000psi
In reply to RacetruckRon :
Yup. They're usually rated to like 5K psi. Use em all the time at work.
Berk this adapter plate and it's stupid non perpendicular dowel pins.
-sent from underneath a stupid truck
I got the transmission in last night after changing my strategy. I was going to try and install the bellhousing and then line the transmission up to the clutch and bellhousing under the truck. I thought this would make trans easier to manuever given the tunnel shape and then I wouldn't have to jack the truck up as much to sneak the trans jack underneath. That failed so the bellhousing went back on. The trans went on most of the way by itself, this 4.8 does not seem to like the CD009. I have to break the rules and use the bellhousing bolts to pull the trans on the last 3-5mm. The clutch alignment might not have been perfect thanks to the plastic alignment tool but that's a struggle every time with this drivetrain.
I need to make a little bit of a cover plate but this Miata shifter boot is a nice addition to the truck.
In reply to RacetruckRon :
I have the same boot ready to go in my truck :) such a nice/easy isolator
Glad to see the transmission back in and the project moving forward!
In reply to classicJackets (FS) :
I really like the over molded metal base plate. It gives it a lot of rigidity compared to other options I have seen and bought. I bought a nice OE shift boot for some older Freightliner truck but it ended up being like twice the size I thought it was with a 10" diameter mounting flange. I'll probably just save that for when we build Mrs. Racetruck the 60's farm truck she really wants.
Another side quest part that kinda goes back to my roots of 3d printing parts for the truck. This one I had to farm out because I can't 3d print 316 Stainless Steel.
This is a replacement I designed for the shift rod actuator. I bought a CD009 short throw relocation shifter about 2 years ago. It sure has a short throw but it's just as sloppy as it's short which is not great when it deletes the reverse lockout and 6th and reverse are really close together. The source of the sloppiness is some wallered out roll pin holes in this horrendous cast aluminum piece. Seriously what mouth breather puts aluminum in a cyclically loaded torsion joint against hardened steel roll pins and bets on the aluminum?
What do the say on the cereal boxes? Enlarged to show texture.
I will probably need to clean the two larger (16mm) holes up since I printed them a little on the small side because holes like this can warp depending on print orientation. All in all not bad for $50 plus shipping and 5 days from file submission to my doorstep from Shanghai.
That is impressive. And smart.
Would never have thought to use a service like this for a part like that. Obviously I should have.
In reply to Piguin :
I have a couple contacts in Shenzhen that probably would have CNC cut it cheaper but it would have taken more time on my end to make 2d drawings and longer for them to set up a single run piece. This was done through Craftcloud and all I had to do was upload an STL file.
Did you 3d scan the existing part and clean up the model, or did you draw the new one from scratch?
In reply to RacetruckRon :
you've got mail
In reply to bigeyedfish :
I drew it up from caliper measurements. I didn't even do a test print of my own before pulling the trigger which was a little reckless of me.
In reply to RacetruckRon :
reckless? Thats the Ron I know.
I tried drilling out the holes that were a little undersized from printing with a 16mm drill bit which did not go well. I really needed a reamer or an adjustable boring bar. So a carbide burr on the die grinder followed by guess and check got the printed stainless piece fitting real nice like on the transmission. I tapped the roll pin in and slapped the shifter on their, no play at all. The shifter wouldn't go into any gear which had me panick for a second before I realized the engine and clutch are attached to it now and I hadn't bled the clutch yet.
I got this extra long clutch bleeder line so I could just dump the bleeder valve into the clutch reservoir. I will never have to lay underneath the truck with a 1/4" wrench battling the headers and DOT 3 fluid at the same time ever again. I pumped the clutch for 5 minutes straight getting a little bit of air out of the bleeder line but not much pedal feel at all. I figured I'd try and bleed the master since I had it open to air for a bit and almost immediately got the pedal to firm up. I need to add a couple p-clips or zipties to keep the clutch line and bleeder line away from the headers but the clutch feels great and I'm so stoked to have the a factory feeling clutch in this truck. Finally.
I'm sick and tired of these mothaberkeleyin bees in this mothaberkeleyin truck. Seriously I don't miss the dirt daubers of the south but I keep finding their homes. This time in the exhaust ports of the odd side passenger head. Cylinders 3 and 5 have wasp houses 
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