Sure. I run a 13 row Mocal oil cooler for both the engine oil and the power steering (prob not necessary on PS, but I got cooler nearly free due to price marked incorrectly, a decimal back).
Here is a fairly accurate diagram of my oil system. I run everything in the picture. 3qt Accusump, Earls 180 degree oil thermostat, filter relocation, etc. It makes for almost a 10qt oiling system. I also felt ok with this because it would allow excess fluid to sink heat. Is spendy on oil change day, but thus is the tax for the things.
Sorry for the incomplete/crappy pictures, but here's what the coolers look like. I went small so I could fit it in the fender. I calculated the heat dissipation transfer function and it could shed heat before system is overcome with like ~47mins of track time/WOT, so you can't run it forever, but...eh...good enough. Never had an issue. Brakes and tires complain before the oiling system.
I mounted both in fenders. Ducts are total quantity of 4. 2 per side, one for cooler, one for brake caliper on their respective sides.
Accusump is mounted in the bumper support. I had it cut up for my intercooler when I had an SR20, so it was amazing place to stick this huge thing.
Again, no awesome pictures, but I used dual 3" NACA ducts in front to supply the brakes, PS, and engine oil. I have about 4 high ambient track days under my belt and highest oil temp I think I ever saw was ~230-240deg F in a 20 minute session. I'd have to check the logs to be sure. But I don't think I hit 250deg F, and hit 250+deg F with SR20 often.
I can try to get some better pictures as she comes out of hibernation as I realize these don't likely show what you wanted (mounting solution, hose routing, etc.).
In reply to RACEC4R :
Thanks, this definitely helps give me an idea of what you did. I am also planing on running a p/s cooler mine is a little more pedestrian, a trans cooler sourced from a Ford Ranger sized about 7.25” by 10”. I am interested in seeing mounting and hose routings. Also how did you deal with the discharge air? I am assuming into the wheel well. Are you still running part of the oem plastic fender liner, and is the back sides of the coolers protected from debris flung off the tires or is this not a problem? No rush on the pictures as I am not able to do a lot in the shop right now. Thanks!
Here are a few pictures of the rear subframe that I modified and is currently under the gold car. The front mount points for the lower control arms are 
lowered resulting in a 5 degree shallower angle. The diff mounts are modified to accept a S14, J30, Q45, etc type rear diff cover. This must be combined with solid front diff mount bushings. Also added reinforcements patterned after G-tech kit. Also some tube reinforcements to stiffen the front upper link mounts.
Before control arm mount relocation.
madmrak351 said:
Here are a few pictures of the rear subframe that I modified and is currently under the gold car. The front mount points for the lower control arms are lowered resulting in a 5 degree shallower angle...
Why? Is this an anti-squat thing?
In reply to obsolete :
Yes this will slightly reduce the anti-squat. It puts it in between the stock S13 and S14.
In reply to madmrak351 :
Neat, thanks. I was going to ask why, but then I found this and I think I get it now: https://us.gktech.com/s13-240sx-r32-skyline-subframe-anti-squat-reduction-weld-in-kit
Yes that is why. If I had seen these, I might have went with them. I did this subframe build in spring of 2020.
Got a few minutes in the shop Saturday night and about an hour Sunday. Saturday I heated and removed a broken off bolt from the fuel tank filler neck mounting ring. Tank (from black car) had been cleaned multiple times since the last time it had fuel in it. Heated the 6 mm bolt remains with the smallest acetylene torch tip I had and removed it with a small vice grip. Sorry no pictures on that. That inspired me Sunday to upgrade the fuel pump/ sending unit thing with a 3/8 pump discharge line. The original was 5/16. Did this a while back on the one for the other car. The return line tube is still 5/16 so the difference is noticeable in the pictures. Used a double flare tool to put a slight bulge in the line where the pump hooks up for hose
retention.
Wire brushed and applied ospho to the surface rusted areas on the tank from the black car. Getting ready for the rattle can.
Well my wife and I have been wide open on the spec house since February 9th, I am reasonably confident that we have passed the half way point. His has been a 5 day a week thing plus the one day a week I work for my friend at his RV shop. This afternoon my wife says “go out to the shop you need some 240 time.” Didn’t have to tell me twice!! I got back on the radiator notch in the left frame rail. Made a slightly week but effective tool to bend flanges to make fitting the patch over the notch easier. I got everything the way I wanted it and made a template for the patch. I will pick up some material for the patch sometime this week. Doubtful i will get much more done until the following week as my younger son and I are going to a motorcycle event in south Tennessee tho coming weekend. Here are some pictures of the notch work.
Been working on the flip house most of my waking hours. Trying to get wrapped up by the end of the month. Don’t want to wait to long to finish with the prime rate going up regularly. So had a little time this afternoon and having picked up the metal for the patch last week, I cut out the patch and bent it on the HF press brake. Hope to get time tomorrow to weld it in place. Hopefully I can do a better job than I did on the flange bending tool. Switched back to my older Lincoln welder from my son’s Miller. Then I remember you can’t weld near the fan vents on the Lincoln as it moves a lot of air.
Got some time yesterday and welded in the patch plate. Cleaned it down to bare steel and then sprayed it with weld through primer. Am not a fan of carmites.
