93 240sx coupe build by rambling old man

I also reversed the bolts that hold the radius rods to minimize the number of holes in the lower plate to just what is needed to mount the swaybar end link. Also the after market rods I am using have a better fit on the 1/2 bolts.

In reply to jfryjfry :

Yes they are indeed standard bolts. I  used them only because they were the best (tight) fit into the after market radius rods I am using. Also beefier than the OEM 12mm studs. Good eye!! I typically try as much as I can to keep everything metric but I don’t always do that obviously.

l have gotten a little further along on the harness for the engine for the gold car. Also I have started weighing the various coil configurations available on the engines I have around.!Thus far l have weighed the early truck coil bar with coils (4), and the LS1/ LS6 car bar with coils. With my rather crude spring scale the both came in around 3.6 lbs. looking to weigh the ones off my later  (2005) truck when I get a chance. I know I can get rid of the brackets with the Holley valve covers, but the price is above my comfort zone and I expect the weight loss to be around 1 lb or less.

That's coming together well!

Don't forget to drill an access hole in the bottom of the LCA to get to the swaybar nut!

In reply to rallyxPOS13 :

Thanks for the advice and positive feedback. I still am deciding if I am running the stock style end links or putting a bracket on top of the arm for a double heim joint type link. Therefore I have not made any holes yet. 

More harness progress today.  I need the harness length from center of back of engine to the ECM connectors to be 36”. I will have to lengthen roughly 10 to 12 wires. This will allow me to locate the ECM in the same place as the original was at.

Got some more work done on the engine harness. I lengthened some wires and shortened others to get the length right to put the PCM inside the passenger compartment near the original Nissan location in the right kick panel area. I have started looming the front part. I fired up the Brother P- touch and made some labels to make it look more professional lol.

Now this guy is giving me strong "I want to play frisbee hints.

Glad to see you're back at it! What's in that there Tremec box?

Thanks, good to be working on it some. Magnum F, got it at LS fest last year. I have another project that will be sharing my time with this one as I bought a challenge car from CruiserMatt last month. I have a build thread on it too.

Welded up the right LCA for the gold car today. Warmest activity I could think of in a cold shop. I hate winter! I don't know how you guys in the real cold do it!  My welding skills have certainly declined in the past 30 years. Lack of practice and old eyes can do that. I decided to follow the advice from the 10 ways to improve your welding column. So I was more diligent about clipping the wire between welds and wiped down the joints with acetone first. Seems to have helped some. 

I warmed the arms in the shop oven at about 100 degrees, and warmed the rattle can in the kitchen sink to get better results in the unheated shop

Mmm, shop oven. That's a valuable tool.

In reply to obsolete :

Yes, I have used it for everything from changing sleeves in Honda ATV cylinders to powder coating. It and the freezer in the garage have helped reduce the interference in many interference fits.

So I've been out of town for a few days and forgot to take pictures of my latest progress before I left. Pressed the ball joints into the front control arms. Then installed the front subframe that was previously reinforced and painted. Remounted the rack and installed the front arms. Next up front calipers.

I installed the calipers this morning and discovered that the hardware kit with one calipers  has the wrong pins in it.

So I went by O for really and they got a new caliper coming to swap out the hardware kit. So I kept going with the installation. 

Then I found out that the Infiniti wheels I have will not clear the front calipers without  15mm spacers.