AE92 Corolla SR5 - GTS goodies swap-in mini-build-thread

I'll check out that cable track. Did your engine crank any weaker after the relocation?

i have done probably or so rear mounted batteries, both in daily drivers, track cars, etc.

none have cranked slower after relocation.

I use 0 gauge cable to the starter. ground from starter bolt to frame for engine ground with 0 gauge. ground battery to frame with 0 gauge. ground battery to body with 8 or 4 gauge, depending on the amount of electrical accessories.

I also route the main positive cable tight along where the trans tunnel meets the floorpan, securing every 5 inches to prevent any movement., this is typicaklly done with zip ties that have the loop for a sheetmetal screw. I then drill a hole in the floorpan directly over the starter, making for a very short unprotected run of cable.

in a fwd application, this probably would still work, though I am unsure of the routing through the firewall/engine bay.

and as long as ive been following this thread, ive been wondering: what country are you in?

Barbados.

trucke wrote: Run the positive wire under the door sill plate. The FX16 has a cable track there. The AE92 should too.

Just to be clear do you mean on the underside of the car, or through the door sill itself?

Looks like I'll find out which parts were lost on Monday.

Avast ye scallywags, more booty from the cove!

1NZ CoP connectors, second time Dom's Auto Parts saved me from big $$$ dealership prices on Toyota ignition stuff:

MS2 Daughterboard for running the CoPs:

Hall effect sensor and hub-centric rings:

Moroso oil catch can. I was worried about the packing of my DIY-modded ricemart special blowing out. This one's also much smaller and lighter:

It came with a CNC-tastic billet aluminum mount that was too big to fit anywhere, had to use the ghetto bracket & hose clamp from the old catch can:

The shipping company has sent their info off to customs and they're never in any hurry to do anything...so the shipment of partially lost parts is still a mystery.

I've laid out a plan for mods to come:

Spring 2014 - TwosRus oil pan baffle kit, rust repair to rear deck, spare well (again) and doors, maybe a DIY crank scraper.

Fall 2014 - MS2x, ITBs, bigger cams, CoPs, DIY variable trumpets.

Winter 2014 / early 2015 - Plasti-dip paint job.

Where have I been? My battery cable is run inside the passenger compartment. There is a wiring track under sill plate that sits over the bottom of the door.

No cranking issues!

I was actually looking at that on Monday, I think I found what you're talking about.

Here are some pictures of the battery cable routing.

Here is the battery in the hatch with the battery cable routed under the seat back. <img src="#//s995.photobucket.com/user/trucke41/media/DSC01410_zps72c19ed2.jpg.html][/URL]" />

With the back seat bottom removed, you can see the cable secured and routed under the side panel. <img src="#//s995.photobucket.com/user/trucke41/media/DSC01411_zps0e1b690b.jpg.html][/URL]" />

A shot of the sill plate.
<img src="#//s995.photobucket.com/user/trucke41/media/DSC01412_zps45d8bc87.jpg.html][/URL]" />

Sill plate removed. You will need to pry up the carpet. <img src="#//s995.photobucket.com/user/trucke41/media/DSC01405_zpsa3de466b.jpg.html][/URL]" />

With the carpet up, you can see the plastic wiring channel. The battery cable is clearly shown at the tip of my thumb. This channel is on both driver and passenger sides of the car. Pretty certain the AE92 is the same as the AE82 FX. <img src="#//s995.photobucket.com/user/trucke41/media/DSC01404_zps68b373bd.jpg.html][/URL]" />

Run the cable under the side kick panel and up under the dash. I would place it above the steering column to ensure it stays out the way. Zip ties work great! <img src="#//s995.photobucket.com/user/trucke41/media/DSC01408_zps8fa5205e.jpg.html][/URL]" />

Here is a shot from the firewall side. The battery cable is routed through the same hole as the speedometer cable. Had to cut the rubber grommet a little for the cable to clear. <img src="#//s995.photobucket.com/user/trucke41/media/DSC01414_zpsbefb0974.jpg.html][/URL]" />

After that, just route it to the current battery base plate and mount a pillow block for distribution.

When I bought this car, the battery cable was laying on the floor under the drivers feet. Brilliant!

Thanks trucke! Sending the pics to the mechanic now. We're gonna take a second stab at this thing.

Might find out what parts are here later today...looks like most or all of the parts are here. Apparently a woman at the freight forwarding company died and took a lot of info with her which caused this clusterberkeley. Before I was kind of hoping the spring helper setup and exhaust stuff would be lost so I could revise my choices but now I'd rather just not have to wait for any more shipments. Shipping problems hate us all.

Battery relocation is unfortunately still not looking doable. While there's a lot of room in general under the panels to the sides of the rear seats, there are a few places the cable would have to pass through to enter the trunk without going under the floor or rear seat that are so tight that the cable would rub on the interior panels and unibody. Now if it were just me doing this I might add some sheathing to the cable and call it good enough, but I think the mechanic's seen too many fiery disasters caused by sub-par battery relocations and he's strongly advising me to leave the battery in the front.

Looks like only the intake kit was lost...last thing I would have guessed with the cam wheel & springs being made on demand but at least that won't cause a delay.

Looks like I'll get the parts tomorrow or the day after.

A few parts cleared on Friday.

2nd adjustable cam wheel:

Helper springs:

I hacked up an exhaust deflector from some scrap metal...best I could do with just aircraft scissors & pliers:

Hopefully I can keep it down to 2 trips with this thing, but it could be as much as 4...

I'll get the rest of the parts that made it on Monday.

I am so jealous of you - just buying adjustable cam gears.

Got news that the only parts that were lost were the intake and MS2, the AC compressor should be in as well. I'll try to get pics later today or early tomorrow.

OBX resonator. This isn't a KV1013, this is a CAT000-18 round resonator. That's even less glasspack volume, I really hope it can cut down the sound enough. A Magnaflow 12276 would have been way better but neither me nor the mechanic ran across it in time when researching the options.

New rear springs:

Dynomax 17219 muffler, this box is far heavier than the resonator and I couldn't be bothered to unbox it, but don't worry there will be plenty of exhaust build pics.

AC compressor and idler pulley already bolted onto the engine. Thanks trucke!

Hard to show with a pic, but the alternator and all the belts are hooked up now. Had to swap the AC belt tensioner mechanism from the donor car's AC bracket, this one would slip before reaching the proper tension.

Whoops spoke too soon, 'nother problem, apparently the tensioner pulley should be smooth maybe a mid-model change or USDM/JDM difference?

Edit: Oh it depends on the belt configuration. Need a smooth pulley for mine to go on the outside of the belt.

Maybe these delays weren't all bad. A dude in a Nissan Navara just smashed in the back of my mom's GD, parked where my 'rolla usually is, less than 12 hours after it got back from bodywork and a total repaint.

I'm going to get some big cones with flags on top bedazzled with retroreflective tape to put around my car when it's done.

Think I'm gonna end up shelling out for that AC idler pulley at the dealership (having tried almost all the local junkyards & used part places today)...even if I can get it used for cheaper, the price difference isn't really worth the door-to-door time.

Dammit, can't get the pulley locally. Gonna try importing used, then fabbing locally, then importing new (That would REALLY suck).

Oh man I berkeleyed up. I berkeleyed up SO bad. Nobody's perfect but there's just about no room for error when the stakes are so high. And I made a big mistake by these standards.

I ordered the wrong rear springs, and they're on the car already.

At some point I found some application guide online (which I can't find now) that said the D2 D-To-26 spring rates were 420lb front 228lb average rear. Either those numbers were extremely wrong or the soft section of the rear springs is skewing the average way down, because the 275lb springs were softer than the ones that came off, I found out after the fact. And despite being 2-3" shorter the lower spring seat ended up in about the exact same position as before instead of above the tire where I wanted it, how the hell does that work?

The mechanic's upbeat about it and says I should give them a try but I know that softer springs on the rear can only hurt...and it hurts handling, which is this car's bread & butter.

I have the no-name springs that were on the donor car. They're very short (good), I don't know how hard. And they're my only hope. I think I'm gonna end up slapping them on and hoping for the best if they seem stiffer. Otherwise I'm going back to the D2 springs. 275lb was a conservative increase in stiffness, I absolutely can't afford softer than what I started with. If the streets were in better shape here I'd be running much harder springs all-around.

Are those variable rate springs?

The D2 springs are. The new Eibachs and the ones from the donor car are linear rate springs.

Ick. You might save money in the long run by making/buying something that will accept typical 2.5 inch coilover springs. I can get a new set in standard stiffness for like 100 bucks total. Also lets you get rid of the variable rate stuff.

It does take standard 2.5" springs. The problem is that if I bring them in legally it roughly doubles the price through duties & other fees, on top of expensive shipping.

The rear D2 springs have "O-11-250" printed on them. I'd like to think that means "Obviously 11" long 250lb/in" but they're 10" long...

Gonna see what I can do to measure the stiffness of all these.

Edit: Calculated rate of the no-names is 233lb, I figure that could be off by an easy 10% in either direction though because it has ground ends and I'm making a guesstimate.

Update: gonna revise that to 250lb. That's my final answer.

Edit2: Now here's something interesting. Using an average coil width for the slightly egg-shaped D2 spring, I've got a rate of 225lb/in, almost exactly what I saw on the lost spec sheet and not far off the number on the side of the spring either. 11 happens to be the diameter of the spring in millimeters.

On the weekend I'll try to get the rates by measuring compression with known weights.