In a first for me in a non-building sense, I'm taking on a project with a time frame. The goal is to have this wagon looking pretty by the little ones birthday party at the end of May. Not a lot of time, but hopefully not a lot of work either. I'll be updating this thread in real time, so hopefully it won't be too slow going.

Currently, all the bolts on the wagon are soaking with PB blaster. Even with a flathead trying to hold the bolts, my impact was just spinning everything, and I'd rather not cut them off if I don't have to.

Now that that is out of the way, onto the pictures and the plan.

This is as it was sitting down in the carport until about 45 minutes ago. Doesn't look to bad from the side.

The floor, not so nice.

But the bottom is in great shape, so this should be an "easy" paint job.

I expect this pile of stuff to make it all better. a 120 grit and 80 grit flapper wheel, rubberized paintable undercoating, wire wheels, a new cheapo angle grinder, some 80 grit for my palm sander, and a can of self etching primer. I haven't decided on a finish color yet, but I still have lots of 400 and 800 grit paper left from painting the Miata, so whatever color it winds up should be shiny. But I want to coat the whole thing with paintable undercoating to maybe help prevent future rust, and make cleanup easier at the end of the day.

The wheels are 13x5x6, and look like they'll fit onto the existing axles. Just setting things side by side, I don't think I'll have any clearance issues, but I may add lift. We shall see once I get the wheels on.

Longterm plans are to make the wagon grow as she does, so by the time she is 10 or so, it should have a full suspension and be useful for hauling crap around the yard again, but right now the goal is to make it not a tetanus trap by her birthday party.

Currently, I've got the old hardware soaking, but I suspect I'll be cutting it off and replacing it with new. When I do that, I'm going to look at 1inch square tubing and other options to make the frame a little beefier and raise the rise height a little bit.

At the very least, these new wheels and tires should make getting through the swamp I call a yard easier than it was when I was a kid.

If I finish this in time, I'll be working on a way to connect it to her power wheels quad, but I don't know if the little 6v motor would be up for towing.

I love retro big wheel Radio Flyers.

Please work faster.

I need 2 inches of lift to clear the new wheels. I also need a fatter axle.

I just so happen to have a 3ft length of 5/8" round stock that folks the hole perfectly, so new axles already figured out.

But this means I need a bigger hole on the wagon. Currently, front and rear are hollow axles tack welded to the "suspension" and the wheels spin free. Simple, easy, I like it. But, I can't just bore these holes out and run a live axle. The stamped sheet metal will die quickly. And not owning a welder is kind of annoying.

But I guess if I got an outlet I can run the stick welder it might work... I'd rather just run loose axles but then I'd have to bolt the wheels on somehow. I guess I can clean Mike's garage so I can use his welder, but in sick of cleaning up after him.

Sorry, I'm just using this post like a note pad. Some things will make more sense when I'm able to upload pictures.

It's a wagon, not a car. I can use loose axles, won't make a difference cause the wheels will be spinning regardless.

For building a new drive train... Square tubing for the rear, definitely. Unless I can get a good deal on a yard wagon that steers better from the get-go and just frame swap.

Steering though. Adding lift is easy, building a new steering assembly from stronger materials might not be. I'm going need to stare at this for a while.

It was fighting these pushnuts off that made me realize the axle was too small for the new wheels. So out came the dremel. Luckily they are cheap and prime eligible for the 5/8" rod I have for axles.

Just a little bit of tire rub on the test fit.

It was at this point I realized the stock axle was both too narrow and too short.

Stock steering. I need to figure out the part that does the spinning.

So yea, I'm going to say 2" of lift to fit the bigger wheels lock to lock. Should be simple, I might even just use some pressure treated lumber for the lift. Might help absorb bumps slightly better and I have scrap onhand.

But if I go the square tubing route, it would look a little better, and I'd still have the option of not welding if I make good cuts. Welding would make it worlds easier though.

I've also been thinking, I have 1/8" steel strips about 2 inches wide I made the lightbar for the miata from. I can bend it pretty well, drill it, bolt it, reinforce it, and not need to weld. I want to think it would be weak to hold the weight, but it's thicker than the stamped stuff currently on the wagon.

I'm debating adding side rails as well. I would run wood around the lip and attach vertical slats to the body and the wood, and cap them.

Edit: I may be looking at the axles all wrong.

slightly bigger lift guy with his own website said:

zigsworkshop I bought some 3/4 OD “dom” tube from a metal supply place, and was able to simply JB weld the 2 new front axles over the existing ones. For the rear I ended up taking my mig welder, and tacking some weld material on the existing rear axles and hammered the new ones on, making a press fit. The JB weld wouldn’t hold on the rear for some reason. If I had to do it again, id replace the entire rear axle with a 3/4″ rod. Hope that helps!

This guy also made his "lift kit" out of 3/4" EMT conduit. I happen to have a stick of it on the porch. That's easy to cut to length.

I need to start mathing up a hardware list.

I still want to replace the rear axle entirely though with 5/8 rod, but seeing what he did for the front end, JB welding on DOM tubing for an axle, hell, I can do that. And seeing he left the steering and everything the same just made the lift and replaced the bolts, I think this got easier.

here's his wagon, mostly done. The picture I think most describes my words.

FUTURE RICO

STeering assembly goes bolt, metal plate, black thing, silver plate, castle nut, cotter pin. GET A NEW COTTER PIN.

As it sits right now.

Stupid me. Took almost 2 hours to get the hardware off the body. Mostly because I tried to cut one of the lock nuts.

I'm done for today. Tomorrow after chainsaw day, the wheels will come off, and I'll start sanding everything.

Monday is supposed to be beautiful. I doubt I'll get everything sanded in time, but that would be a good time to get primer on, so little one doesn't get mad that her wagon doesn't go anywhere.

Still going to look at and think hard about the rear axle. I really want to just bore the hole out an extra 1/8" and hope, but I'm not sure how it will hold up. Maybe it will after all.

I'm thinking about just replacing the front axle too, but man that guy makes it look easy JB welding a fitting on.

Shopping List/ cut list

1. 8 3" cuts from EMT
2. 8 4" carriage bolts with washers,lock washers, lock nuts, and nuts(asterisk)
3. New axle length will be 5" longer than current. Measure current lengths with wheels off
4. order 5/8" pushnuts from amazon
5. Pick a color and decide on decals

(asterisk) Is there some sort of cap for allthread? I have a bunch of allthread that would work very well for all the nuts and bolts, but I don't want nuts or sharp threads in the passenger area. If there is some kind of metal or even plastic cap I could thread on that would sit flush, that would be awesome.

As for colors... I'm debating the same color as the Miata with black trim and black wheels, red with white "classic", shudder pink, British Racing Green, or color changing. I'm also thinking about plasti-dip instead of paint. Shouldn't take more than a can or two to do this, and it might hold up better to being exposed to the elements.

For knowing this project was coming, I really under planned.

Current front axle 17"

Current rear axle 17"

So I need a second piece of 5/8"round stock to make my able idea work. Bah.

"Lift" is cut out. Need to even up the edges, and paint before installation.

Off to depot.

Managed to get some work done today during lunch break from chainsaw day part 2.

I started out the day cutting my "lift kit" from some stainless EMT. Almost all of them are the same size, good enough an extra washer can even it out anyway.

Then I measured and cut the axles to approximate lengths. I've got about 2 inches to maybe trim off at the end, that will be a decision once everything is done, but for now longer is better.

Finally got a mockup with everything finger tight of how it will look and approximate ride height. It's important to note the stock axles are still on. Shouldn't be nearly as much camber when I'm actually done.

Rear end mocked up

and with the wheels hanging

But this means all the fun stuff is over. It's time to start working on paint. I'll post pictures in the proper build thread tonight when it gets dark, but I got power to the carport today. Finally. So now I can work down there at night and not need to worry about waking up the little one.

Finger tight everything, with the wrong axles, it looks about right height and ride wise.

I'll start sanding and prepping the body, maybe even get it all undercoated this week depending on weather, but I still need to pick a color scheme.

And a side view for scale

The decision was made for plasti dip, due to durability, protection, and color choice. That left to many colors to choose from,but but I think I picked a winning combination.

Black base, with blue/green chameleon metalizer,but skip the glossifier for now.

6 cans of black(hey I have more uses for this stuff) and 2 cans of chameleon are just under $60 from Amazon, so I'll be getting them ordered up soon. (Go look if you need any. Black, single can 12.25, 2 pack 19.95, then there is a 6 pack for 32 and another 6 pack of the exact same for 50)

This also means instead of laborious sanding priming and painting, I'll be using Ospho on the rust then laying down the plastidip. Yay for time saving.

Leave the frame and "suspension" all black, but do the body up with the chameleon.

Plasti dip will be in Friday. So between now and then, mostly tonight and tomorrow afternoon, I'm going to be sanding, rust treating, and priming the body and frame.

I also need to get the old axles off and fit my new ones in.

There's also a good bit of filing and sanding to be done to clean up rough edges and make it kid friendly.

Does anyone else like the idea of making a small battery box and putting some LEDS either as headlights or on the bottom for ground lighting? No real purpose, I just have some led strip and battery connectors I'd like to play with.

I finally got to use my hydraulic press. I had to straighten out these pieces that connect the rear axle to the body.

But here is where I am right now. Everything is primered, all the holes the axle will pass through have been bored out to fit the 5/8 axle.

Amazon updated delivery to tomorrow for the plasti-dip, so I may actually get a base coat of black onto everything tomorrow.

Still to do

1. even out the "lift" kit
2. put it all back together
3. Weld or JB weld or do something to hold the axle to its carrier.

The plasti-dip showed up today shortly after the little tyke left, perfect timing. I put down a splatter coat, then 4 heavy wet almost running coats of black on everything.

Then flipped everything over and did the inside portions. All in, took 2 full cans of black, leaving me 4 and staring at the crown vic thinking about buying another 6 pack.

Once the outside dried up, I got out the chameleon. So far I've only put on one coat just on the body. LEDs and a cellphone don't make the color change easy to photograph, but I tried.

I think I'm going to leave it with one coat on the outside. Tomorrow when it's sunny I'll look at it and make a final decision. I still have to do the inside of the body with the chameleon, but I'm having thoughts about putting in a wood floor so I might wait or just do the sides.

I've also decided I'm going to get the decal kit from radio flyer, or price up a custom vinyl decal for it. Guess I haven't decided that part yet.

I'm also still on the fence about leaving the "lift kit" stainless or painting it black like everything else. For now I'm going to leave the wheels white. I might try spraying the chameleon right on rim, but I don't know if it will stick to paint.

Here's a link to my build. Use some of my ideas if you want. I have a welder, which was necessary to make mine like i did. Good luck with your build!

I need to run out and get a new tubing cutter because between the sawzall and portaband I'm mangling these tubes trying to even them out. While I'm gone, any thoughts on leaving the hardware stainless? I kind of like the look.

It's DONE!!

until she grows a bit. The next step of evolution will be some sort of functional mini coilover setup, luckily, I've got a couple years to figure that part out.

I might take the front back apart and strip off some plasti-dip around the steering control, because it's kind of tight. But it should also wear with time and use.

The axles aren't locked down either, and the lock nuts aren't on. So I guess it's 95% done, but it's ready for her party in 5 weeks.

RevRico wrote: /snip It's DONE!! until she grows a bit. The next step of evolution will be some sort of functional mini coilover setup, luckily, I've got a couple years to figure that part out. /snip

You mean until she grows a bit and an engine gets slapped on it

Looks great!

In reply to java230:

I'm thinking a chainsaw motor will be perfect. Small, torquey, and chain driven is probably simplest for the platform. Not that I'm already looking for old chainsaws on Craigslist or anything.

I just think it needs a bit more bump protection before adding speed. I really like the setup Kramer built for his with the slicks and mini springs, but I've seen some wild builds that have stopped me from throwing out old upper control arms. Although maybe I should be looking at adapting dirt bike parts instead of car parts... Whatever, she'll only be 2 in June, I've got time to research and fabricate.

This may have just been my prototype though. When I was researching before, kits were selling for $200, whole(finished) lifted or slammed wagons for $400+. Not counting the couple tools I bought, I'm all in 16 hours and $98, with most of the 16 hours being waiting time between coats of plastic. If I can score cheap or free wagons, this may become a regular thing.

are there any guys with vinyl cutters reading this thread?

I'd like to get matching vinyls of my daughter's name to put on the sides where radio flyer was. White letters, 2 inches tall.

I could go to my local shop, but I'd rather help out a member with a vinyl cutter, if that's possible.

Please... an under slung custom expansion chamber when power(CS motor) enters the equation. Silencer, perhaps an old 'D' cell flash light.... See these wagons all the time at swap meets....and all are lifted, great work!

RevRico wrote: are there any guys with vinyl cutters reading this thread? I'd like to get matching vinyls of my daughter's name to put on the sides where radio flyer was. White letters, 2 inches tall. I could go to my local shop, but I'd rather help out a member with a vinyl cutter, if that's possible.

Ping mazdeuce or jthw8. Both habe cutters and are super good dudes.

Also,, not that you need help, but......i know where to get solenoids and stuff to do a bag suspension on a wagon.

Can't believe I missed this one til now. Looks awesome, I may have to try out some Plastidip on one of mine. Also still looking for a ratty, extremely cheap one for a future project.

Mission accomplished, everybody loves the wagon, even the bigger kids. I'm already thinking I added too much weight though, it will be good exercise for me dragging her around in it.

They look like happy campers!

Dad it's heavy!!

We're taking the wagon and both little ones to the petting zoo tomorrow. This should be fun.

I'm going to try to take some videos of it in action this weekend. Yes, when she isn't here, because she just wants to grab the camera. But I want to get some video of how it handles different terrain, and see what kind of ideas you guys can come up with to make things smoother.

How easily do the wheels spin? I used some inflatable cart wheels from HF and they were very sensitive to being overtorqued to the axles.