Different.
With 200k on it maybe the rings are just shot.
Different.
With 200k on it maybe the rings are just shot.
Oh and the oil pans are not the same. Those will have to get swapped. I've heard that it's a good idea to weld the oil pump gear on, is this necessary for a street beater?
In reply to akylekoz :
I don't think you need to worry about the oil pump nut. Its reverse thread btw in case you want to check it.
Worst case, safety wire it. Most issues arise with high revving, something you probably will not experience.
Extracted the harness in one piece. Have to move a couple of tubes then swap it the the donor. The old motor definitely had some love, the hoses that I'm swapping are not original and much higher quality.
My in tension is. Eh huh huh,
Shut up clevis.
In reply to akylekoz :
Jesus man. Flip that over and have the pin shoulder carry the weight instead of the clevis pin.
Slippery said:In reply to akylekoz :
Jesus man. Flip that over and have the pin shoulder carry the weight instead of the clevis pin.
I would never have noticed that.
I didn't even think about that. Unless that is a frictionless pin there is likely almost zero load on that cotter pin.
Good eye none the less. That pic was in the in stressed position, while lifting it is straight up.
Just to make sure it was safe I lifted the motor then pulled the pin.
I will flip it for the good engine. Old engine will come with E46 coils and valve cover when sold.
In reply to akylekoz :
I agree there is not a lot of weight there, but in my mind there is a higher safety margin with the pin inserted the opposite way. Could be wrong.
I like to use these:
I'm almost ready to put the new motor back on the subframe. I just need some vacuum tube and a motor mount.
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
Are any of these pictures familiar to you? Thanks again for the tire delivery.
In reply to akylekoz :
i remember the mustang and the 5-speed X5. i did not remember the hoist. I think my next challenge build will be a legitimate "$2000 all-in" early X5 with the M62TU. I see them around $1000 with rattly timing chains.
Any updates on this?
So after hooking up the wiring harness and charging the battery I got all excited and decided to crank the motor over. Except I forgot to remove the plugs first...and soaked them in mystery oil. Remove plugs, spray with brake cleaner, gently torch them, reinstall, plug in coils.
IT RUNS!!!
It didn't even crank, just fired to a nice smooth idle. I, was, shocked.
Now just to put the exhaust and wheels back on and go for a test drive.
Seriously no tick, smoke, cough or sputter, just started with out even cranking. I did perviously crank it with the plugs out to build oil pressure, this may have precharged the cylinders with fumes. But still, IT RUNS!
Great news!
Woo Hoo!!!
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
Even for a timing service I might me tempted to drop the whole mess out the bottom. It makes all the little things very easy to work on.
akylekoz said:In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
Even for a timing service I might me tempted to drop the whole mess out the bottom. It makes all the little things very easy to work on.
i've only done one, in my E38, in the car. I could see how dropping it would be easier to work around, but i never thought i was at a disadvantage for doing it in the car.
Waaahww like look at all the lights.
i mean, i'd check the brake lights.
but seriously, make sure your brake fluid level sensor is plugged in. i think that will set both the red BRAKE light and the yellow ABS and stability control lights.
After warming a little some of the lights went out.
You know, it has pads on it and the pedal feels good enough. Maybe the parking brake lever is touchy.
In reply to akylekoz :
The parking lever grounds itself and triggers the light when you lift it. I doubt that is the reason your light is on.
i'm sure the E38 /E39 owners here are jealous of all those working pixels.
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
Well, yes but there are several fault messages scrolling through them.
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