If you slip a piece of tape down the crack you can pull it right up. This should hold it.
If you slip a piece of tape down the crack you can pull it right up. This should hold it.
My noisy Vanos was silent upon arrival. Hmmm, maybe I don't need Dr. Vanos.
Code reader read 208 to 212 degrees the whole way.
Nothing make a car happier than clean door jambs.
After going quiet for a while the Vanos is noisy again.
Dr. Vanos will get a visit, he offered me an extra $75 for my spare Vanos unit. So at $225 for a rebuilt and upgrade, I'm in.
Now I have one back door that won't open and the window regulator fell apart or something. I did get the interior door panel off with the door closed. No to find the failure mode.
Maybe I'll check the oil, it's been four or five hundred miles now and running better every day.
Little update here.
Splurged on some $8 ebay center caps in the stock style.
Went all crazy and spent another $12 on a window regulator rebuild kit, never again, just get the whole unit. All four windows work now.
In the process of fixing the window, I reached into the door and pressed the latch switch...it clicked and the door opened, first time in years based on the grime. With the door now open I finished the window repair then started taking out the door latch so I can fix it. during this process I opened and closed the door a few times by triggering the latch from inside the door. Almost had the latch out but had to stop and bring the girls to softball. Now the door will not open and the handle if partially removed. All I can do now is try many more times and maybe it will open again.
Also a new upgrade Vanos unit is on the way, the current one makes terrible noises and is probably hurting performance.
Believe it or not this thing is still going strong, even with kids delivering pizzas in it. Color me impressed.
211,000 miles now the AC blows cold and all pixels are intact.
In reply to akylekoz :
Outstanding!
Today is VANOS day!
How much play should be in the VANOS gears, the ones that adjust the cam timing?
In reply to akylekoz :
I cant remember 100%, but I don't think there was any ir much play on the splines of my e36 m3 when I disassembled it.
Or you mean in/out play?
Mark everything before you take it apart, the timing tools they sell online have way too loose tolerances and they are more of a guide than anything. I know the ones I got from Amazon were crap and almost considered buying the factory tool. Until I got the car running I was not confident I had to dissasemble everything again and retime it.
In reply to Slippery :
So, I didn't do any of that. Just follows the Dr's orders the only difference I noticed after the install is that in no longer spark knocks on the cheap gas. Did I mention that my two teenage boys drive this.
Yes they had a bit of in and out play.
Somehow in my brain the Vanos has the gears in it. Next time it's idling I'm the drive I'll see if they are still noisy. I read that the noise isn't a problem but a non functioning VANOS can cause decreased performance.
This thing is slow with a 2.5 I'm it, only goes 70 in third gear and takes a few to get there. I still love driving it.
My son's first impression driving it with a new VANOS is that it is smoother and a bit easier to drive. I'm under the impression that it was not working properly before hence the spark knock I was hearing. Still didn't listen for the idle rattle to see if it went away.
New list of things to fix.
Passenger side front driveshaft has a torn boot and leaky seal.
Parking brakes both work now but the backing plates are basically nonexistent and needs new shoes.
Front rotors are worn and rubbing on the pad backing, causing a squeal at light brake pressure.
Pad lining light is still on.
A working VANOS will give you a good bump in low end torque.
I sold the bottom end to a fella who is building a stroker something or other. No blown head gasket here.
Located the lack of compression cause. A whistle valve.
So now I have a head that needs an exhaust valve, and need an M54 powered BMW with a blown head gasket.
Do those look like the wrong plugs? Too short.
This happened mid December.
That crooked lower jaw pushed the frame horns a few inches off center.
Then I found a complete front end from a black 4.4i for $200.
After getting the front clip sorted, and on the road the rear end reminded me that the sub-frame bushings were shot. So, make another bushing install tool, the one for an E34 is too small. Two $15 bushings and some waterjet work later we are in business.
It just needed one more quick engine swap, now it's a 4.4i. If it survives a few more weeks I'll treat it to new front brakes.
Pay no attention to that large gap in the frame. It wouldn't stay bent until I added some relief, some day I'll probably weld that up.
Needs black rear doors and hatch.
needs different color doors and hatch....red, blue, green, brown
Patience, the boys are only 17 and I have another starting driver ed in June.
I drove this over the weekend, typical kids car, no gas in it. Noticed the mileage at 215k so decided to check the oil while filling the tank. Down maybe 1/2 to 3/4 of a quart, in 4k miles. I may have to change the oil in this before winter.
Also left front rotor is warped, guess it's time to install the clearance rotors and pads I got from RA a while back.
Now has new rotors and pads on the front, and just for good measure it received a lower control arm. Sadly no drama, so while I was there I hit the lower bumper cover with some satin black, it was all chalky. If this keeps up I may get all crazy and paint the hood.
That fender bender is why it's good to have a cheap (but safe) car for the kids to start driving with. Also good that it's fairly slow.
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