Well the first attempt at installing the pinion bearing wasn't great- I heated the bearing to 200F and froze the pinion gear to 0F but only managed to get it halfway on before it got stuck enough that I was worried about hurting it. Is this just a case of "buy a press you cheap bastard" or could there be something else I'm missing?
I pulled it back apart and cleaned everything really well, pinion gear is back in the freezer.
Pinion bearing race went much better- first I knocked the old one out of the housing, then propped a space heater against it and set it to full blast:
It can't get it super hot, but after about 45min it gets to a decent amount above ambient temperature:
Then I pulled the new race out of the freezer and whacked it in there using the old race and a giant chunk of steel:
Hooray:
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ said:Well the first attempt at installing the pinion bearing wasn't great- I heated the bearing to 200F and froze the pinion gear to 0F but only managed to get it halfway on before it got stuck enough that I was worried about hurting it. Is this just a case of "buy a press you cheap bastard" or could there be something else I'm missing?
I pulled it back apart and cleaned everything really well, pinion gear is back in the freezer.
It's much easier with a press, for sure. Did you clean the mounting surface on the pinion gear (with emery cloth)? A small burr or scratch will stop you cold if the bearing is interference fit.
HF 20Ton press mounted to a moving dolly is worth the cost and floor space for sure.
In reply to Recon1342 :
I did this time, going to do the ring gear and carrier bearings before I try again and maybe get it hotter too- I think maybe there was some cosmoline still on there or something.
Also, check this out- on the left, a brand new carrier bearing from Subaru for a BRZ. On the right, a 30 year old carrier bearing out of a Supra. Same part number:
i mean the twins are a parts bin of subaru and toyota
Never let anyone tell you that it doesn't make sense to have a toaster oven in the garage:
After getting it stuck again, I just paid the mechanic up the street a couple bucks to press the pinion bearing on for me:
The "hot outer thing cold inner thing" technique worked great on the carrier bearings though:
And the ring gear too, please let me know if you ever get tired of "I can't believe my phone has heat vision" pictures because I never will:
I let it all normalize before I torqued the ring gear bolts, then stuck it in the housing. Initially I tried the Lexus shims on both sides, but they left it a little too loose. Then I tried the Supra shims on both sides, but the second one wouldn't go in nicely because that was a little too tight. It went together nicely with no play, and Toyota's recommended "second shim should go in 2/3 of the way by hand" technique when I put a Lexus shim on the left (because that's where the ring gear is) and a Supra shim on the right:
Next will be taking that back out and sticking the pinion gear in, but I want a couple of uninterrupted hours when I go down that road so I'm not starting yet.
I will never get tired of your phone having heat vision.
What phone? Moar heat-o-vision!
In reply to bluej (Forum Supporter) :
CAT S61- it's awesome, I really like it. The FLIR images are especially neat because you can go back and change the color scale and get temperature measurements later if needed:
It can also be used as straight up night vision, or to take really abstract photos of animals:
In reply to ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ :
Amazing on that part number. If it ain't broke, don't fix it! I like how this is going.
Installed the pinion gear without the crush sleeve to check stuff:
Then installed the carrier and checked the backlash with two different shim arrangements:
Everything I can do with the carrier shims that I have right now leaves me with a little too much backlash, so I did some math and ordered some shims:
That's all until shims arrive, I ordered some intermediate sizes too in case I end up having to chase the contact pattern around once I get the backlash within spec.
Was on my way to look at another potential project car when the BRZ broke itself, in front of a church, with no cell service...
Turns out that the PVC plug in the intake where the noisemaker used to be fell out- I found an iced tea bottle cap in a nearby dumpster to temporarily plug it and limped home:
Divine intervention seems like a good enough reason to not look at that other car and search for a better intake solution- there are tons of options on the market, of course. I have more of those PVC caps so I checked that they don't fit past the throttle plate (they don't so it must have fallen out rather than in) and epoxied another one into the tube.
I like this solution for the intake 
but seriously it looks like a silicone 90 is all you need
Old vs new:
Yes, I'm replacing the fancy oiled foam filter with a paper/cotton Wix- I saw more dirt past the filter than I wanted to when I had the intake apart. I'd still consider going to a dryflow in the front bumper or something if I came across a cheap intake, but for now this is a solution that should keep dust out of the engine.
The only intake tube options under $100 were this and a Perrin that had some reviews saying it sits really close to the accessory belt, which doesn't seem like something to roll the dice on with a vehicle that goes fast over bumpy stuff.
There's no difference when driving and everything fits well so I'd say this works and eliminates a leak point. Actually, there is one annoying thing on the back of the airbox:
Even with the adapter rotated all the way over until the lines hit the oil cap, they still collide with the airbox in the spot where the foil tape is chewed up, presumably when the engine tilts under acceleration. This has been happening since I installed the oil cooler, although rotating the lines helped. It's annoying and I'm not sure how I'm going to solve it without buying stuff that I otherwise might not buy.
In reply to ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ :
Rivet a piece of 22ga sheet metal over the box...
In reply to Recon1342 :
If I do that sort of thing it'll be something softer than everything else around it- I'm worried about anything that could eventually wear through either the oil lines or the airbox.
Cheap thin cutting board, epoxy w/ rivets?
In reply to ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ :
Weatherstripping foam?
I would be tempted to knock that corner off the airbox and close it back up in a manner that afforded the required clearance.
hmm. how stiff are the current motor mounts? thats a lotta movement for that airbox to be hitting those lines.
I wonder if I can soften it enough with a heat gun to push the corner in a bit?
Motor mounts are stock, so they do move a lot- if the aftermarket options were less expensive I'd be more tempted to go that route.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ said:I wonder if I can soften it enough with a heat gun to push the corner in a bit?
Motor mounts are stock, so they do move a lot- if the aftermarket options were less expensive I'd be more tempted to go that route.
Hmm this makes me want to check mine since I've got the same oil cooler... It may be saggy motor mounts.
In reply to TXratti :
That would actually help me narrow down the causes a bit, although I bet on bumpy surfaces at full throttle the engine shifts around more than a smooth track situation.
In reply to ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ :
Some of our autox courses are pretty bumpy, but definitely not rallyx levels.
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