irish44j (Forum Supporter) said:
btw, are you running full 8 nozzles on the fire system? Or just two in the engine bay?
ARA says "installed and serviced in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions" and the instructions show 4 in the interior and 4 in the engine bay, so that's what the plan is. Just waiting on more tubing at this point since I ran out.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ said:
irish44j (Forum Supporter) said:
btw, are you running full 8 nozzles on the fire system? Or just two in the engine bay?
ARA says "installed and serviced in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions" and the instructions show 4 in the interior and 4 in the engine bay, so that's what the plan is. Just waiting on more tubing at this point since I ran out.
ah ok. I only saw the two in your engine bay so that's why I asked. Engine bay for me is easy, but interior ones I'm having a hard time figuring out mount locations that won't get damaged, etc.....a lot more work in a car that currently has the dash in place :/
In reply to irish44j (Forum Supporter) :
Two on each side of both foot wells?
In reply to Ian F (Forum Supporter) :
I've seen one at the feet, and one above the head, for each occupant?
In reply to Brett_Murphy (Ex-Patrón) :
That's neat looking but it isn't a rally car.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ said:
In reply to Brett_Murphy (Ex-Patrón) :
That's neat looking but it isn't a rally car.
Didn't anyone tell you that putting all-terrain tires, lifted suspension and race seats on any car makes it a rally car?
It looks like a lot of fun for $7500... but also looks like the novelty of driving it around would wear off fairly quickly.
Took a brief detour to get the truck a little more ready for course car duty- we're going to be running combo car (motorcycle sweep, course opening for cars) at Sandblast. Sara has her ham radio license now so obviously we need a radio:
I powered it on and immediately found a conversation between a couple of dudes about how loud trucks should be ticketed... while sitting in my 8.1l, dual side-exit exhaust truck. Ah the wonders of amateur radio.
Also applied a trick that I learned from stock class rallycross cars- added cheap secondary lap belts to keep from bouncing out of the seat:
We'll actually be pretty busy with rally stuff for the next month- before Sandblast we'll be at Sno*Drift, but only Sara is racing. She'll be codriving for Kimmett and I'll be freezing to death as crew chief for both his and Battocchi's cars.
Oooh, my nerd senses are tingling!
Care to share deets on the ham rig? I've been wanting to step up my ham game, and think I just found perfect reason :-)
I never thought your 8.1 was that loud... at least not compared to the 7.3 IDI in my E350. Which sounds like... a 30 year old diesel.
In reply to paranoid_android (Forum Forumer) :
It's an Icom 2730A, purchased because Matt Rhoads said it's the correct choice for course car duty- as far as I can tell, that's mainly because it's dual band so it can pick up net control and the course car frequency at the same time, and the internal speaker is loud enough to hear while bouncing down the stage. Hopefully it was the right choice, because it was more than I wanted to spend! The antenna is some hilariously large thing mounted right in the middle of the roof because apparently that's the best for ham nerd reasons.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ said:
In reply to paranoid_android (Forum Forumer) :
It's an Icom 2730A, purchased because Matt Rhoads said it's the correct choice for course car duty- as far as I can tell, that's mainly because it's dual band so it can pick up net control and the course car frequency at the same time, and the internal speaker is loud enough to hear while bouncing down the stage. Hopefully it was the right choice, because it was more than I wanted to spend! The antenna is some hilariously large thing mounted right in the middle of the roof because apparently that's the best for ham nerd reasons.
Riding with fast sweep at Sandblast in 2019...we were slamming around so much (in a 1st gen Grand Cherokee) we actually managed to snap the HAM antenna in half and it was dragging on the ground behind us lol.
Also, nobody is more of a comms nerd than Rhoads, as you know, so if he says its the right choice, it is :)
So much wire and cable and hose routing:
The inside release for the fire system tucks into the center console like so:
Outside will live somewhere around here, tbd based on the hoodline and cowl and stuff:
Nozzles and plumbing in the engine bay are done, the ones on the strut braces can unscrew without messing with the plumbing when the braces need to come out:
Hopefully I'm getting close to the end of this "time consuming but doesn't look like much" stuff because it's not very motivating.
For something completely different, I chopped a big hole in the roof:
And with a few rivets and a lot of window weld, put the roof scoop in:
The sealant is ugly, but ugly is better than leaky. The top part of the scoop will cover a decent amount when installed, and I should be able to trim it to pretty it up a little too- I should have just taped off where I wanted it to end, but last time I did this it was on a black car so I didn't think about it.
So, i see roof scoops on most rally cars. Is it a rule thing? Or is it due to windows up/ac off? Or...
How well does it prevent water intrusion at speed? Looking at it for street usage.....
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter) :
They work great for getting some fresh air to your face, but the biggest reasons you see them on rally cars are A) we have to run with the windows most of the way up and B) pressurizing the interior a bit helps keep dust from coming in through the wheel wells, seams, and holes that are always less perfectly sealed than you would like.
If it's raining, the air through the roof vents will have a good amount of water in it. Well sealed ones don't leak much while driving in the rain, but more speed and more water will eventually combine forces to find a way in.
Awesome
Thanks! Thats what I wanted to know.
Not right for the plan, but for a different build maybe.
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter) :
I do think that you could make one work in a road car, but you'd have to figure out a way to do vents that can be fully, 100% sealed when shut. I believe there were a few JDM Subaru models (Impreza spec C?) that had the option of a factory roof scoop, so that might be a place to look for how a roof scoop and full interior can coexist.
Its a project thats down the list a bit. And would require a damn near free datsun 280z.....
In reply to ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ :
NSX roof scoop
JK those look pretty bad, but were on the road car as a homologation thing for some sort of racing series.
Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter) said:
Its a project thats down the list a bit. And would require a damn near free datsun 280z.....
How cheap is damn near free?
Landlord is helping a friend sell her husband's 280Z (yes, not a ZX, also not a 2+2) that has been last registered in 1992 and has sat in a garage ever since. I expect the fuel tank rusted out, every piece of rubber underhood is now ceramic, the cooling system is full of some crystalline substance that used to be coolant, etc. Body seems solid with minor rust for a 44 year old Datsun.
If I didn't have the RX-7s, I'd have an RB20DET already on order for it.
Man, I don't even know you any more. No RV vent roof scoop, you got a legit rally scoop. :)
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
Ohio rust free, Michigan rust free, or southern rusty?
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter) :
Be careful... I have bought three Southern rust free cars from Michigan. You gotta go so far north that salt doesn't work so they don't bother, and they don't plow the roads, just grade the snow, so you're not sandblasting the car with wet road grit to stick around in all the crevices and such, retaining moisture.
If you see signs posted that say things like "No snowmobiles parking on sidewalk", you're in the zone.