Well, since I will be dropping the rear subframe to install the LSD unit I might as well drop the gas tank and clean it out. Maybe there's just a ton of varnish in the tank. Don't know.
Well, since I will be dropping the rear subframe to install the LSD unit I might as well drop the gas tank and clean it out. Maybe there's just a ton of varnish in the tank. Don't know.
I would really check your engine mounts. They are known to go bad with a regularity.
Seriously.
It could be that you are pulling on the wires or grounds or even throttle cable issues while cornering.
Orrr, how low does the car idle? when you corner is the clutch in or out? Does this car have power steering?
I would think that if it were varnish, it wouldn't matter how much gas you have in the tank. Does teh amount of gas in teh tank have any effect on this issue?
In reply to wvumtnbkr:
Just seems weird that it's only one direction. I checked the mounts the other day and they were still in tact. Car idles normal most of the time. The clutch was not engaged when cornering. Yes power steering. Amount of gas doesn't make a difference.
I know ont eh S4 rx7's if the AFM is not level and correct side up they can do something similar (due to the flapper door style AFM).
However, I do not think that is a problem with S5 Rx7s.
If you made a hard turn and stayed cornering in that direction, would the car shutoff? Or would it cough and stay running and cycle like that repeatedly?
In reply to wvumtnbkr:
It would completely cut out
Can you install a fuel pressure gauge and tape it to the hood and go do exactly that (drive in a tight circle).
That would tell you if it was fuel system related up to the engine anyway. That would be a LOT simpler than dropping the tank!
If you removed the sending unit you could have looked inside. Have you checked your fuel filter? if thats clogged it can do all sorts of goofy things.
In reply to fidelity101:
Look inside the tank? If so, I did and it was pretty clean. I can check the filter when I get some time. A commodity that we seem to never have enough of. 
The dual mufflers do look cool, but one of them is just dead weight. The exhaust goes from 2.5" to dual 2.5", the flow has already been constricted so you're not gaining much by opening it back up (I could be mistaken, but that's my understanding of exhaust flow). If we're looking for weight savings for speed. That's where I'd be cutting.
Maybe ditch one half and where the y is currently welded in you could put an electrical valved cut out so you can flip a switch and go into "instant deafness" mode with a wide open rotary.
Cleverfrog wrote: Pictures can speak for themselves.Welded up the stainless 2.5" tube and mufflers
In reply to Durty:
For as much as it weighs I'd rather have the looks. Otherwise the cut out in the bumper looks retarded in my opinion.
Im with Cleverfrog there are two spots for the exhaust in the bumper. I would love to run one single 3" but I would rather have the look from the back be right and not look like I lost a muffler on a speed bump.
:) Coworker's 65 falcon and my rexy
Throttle body modding anyone? I think so. Was feeling mod deprived last night so I cleaned up the garage a little bit and pulled the TB and part of the intake. Clean it all up then port and polish. Probably will end up taking the entire intake manifold of to clean and port+polish. Needs some attention so may as well give it some.
Cleverfrog wrote: Something is up with the fuel sending unit or something. In left hand bends the engine would "be running", but cut out until it straightened out. After some research it looks like I need to open up the tank and do some inspecting.
I had that exact same issue with my 91, which seemed to get much worse on my way to a 2 day HDPE. Fortunately I'd read about it and changing the sock in the hotel parking lot the night before fixed the issue. Just change it, they're cheap and as you now know, not that hard to access.
In reply to RX8driver:
I did change it. It doesn't cut anymore but, the light is still on. I'm betting the filter is clogged and not passing thru enough fuel.
Which light is that? The filter's not hard to change and there's also the pulsation damper that's a hot topic on the RX7club site, but on the S5's, it's integrated into the fuel rail, so it's more expensive to replace. Lots of people eliminate the pulsation damper with no perceived ill effects though, so if it's not leaking, that probably isn't going to cause a light. Checking codes on that car is pretty easy though, you just need to short two terminals in a plug in the engine bay, then count the flashes of the check engine light when you turn the key.
Well, I've been slowly removing all the intake manifolding and the rats nest of a vacuum manifold. I can actually read the 13B on the housings now! After several hours of degreasing. I'm struggling with deciding whether or not to pull the engine out or not. It has 163k on it but, I am not sure if it's ever been rebuilt or not. A good place to start would be a compression test. In the mean time I'll just continue to clean and fix leaks.
ANy smoke at startup or after running a bit? If not, do a compression check with a good charged battery and the engine warm.
If it starts well and doesn't have a hard time starting cold, you are probably fine with the engine you have.
In reply to wvumtnbkr:
Very minimal smoke on start up if any but, after WOT it smokes then goes away.
in other words, it smokes oil when pulling much vacuum? If so, I think that is oil control rings. (or your vent system could be fubar'd as well)
In reply to wvumtnbkr:
Correct sir. I've been thinking it's the oil control rings as well. I guess I could do a compression test THEN pull the engine and AT LEAST replace the rings and springs 
Sleeves cleaned thoroughly and inserts green loctited in. I think depending on my wants I may delete the sleeves when I do in fact open/rebuild the engine. Until then I'll try the sleeves out.
Rats nest has been cleaned, mapped properly and silicone replacement lines installed.
I've decided to get grey powdercoat for the intake manifold pieces instead of polishing them. Hopefully I'll be working on that later today. Last night I worked on porting and smoothing out the throttle body. All of the hard edges have been smoothed and bored. Will take pictures of that later Thank you dremel. Thank you.
Powder coat might be cooler then polished. I know motorcycles guys hate when people polish a motor case. They clam it keeps in more heat. So maybe paint will be better but who knows.
In reply to Skervey:
The polish holds heat in? I don't know how that works. I would think with lessening the metal it would transfer through it faster. Any type of coating is going to essentially be a layer of insulation or layer that the heat has to go through to escape. I'm not really worried about that stuff at this point though.
That's what I thought to! But who knows it could be folk lore. 
I would just powder coat it. Much easier then polishing. Iv polished a few parts and its worth it but the time that goes into it to get to shine like new... idk
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