I just use 1/8 rod and weld it I.
I just use 1/8 rod and weld it I.
Driver rear rocker corner is finished. Now I just have to do this entire inner fender job all over again on the passenger side.
More filing cabinet, of course.
Something's not quite right...forgot about the rounded corner of the door.
This should fix it.
It's a little goofy, but so is the idea of a widebody 210 racecar.
But it does look so much better from outside. I'll do better on the passenger side.
maschinenbau said:
That's impressive. I will admit now that I wasn't 100% sure about the body work at the Challenge. One of those "brilliant idea, but execution........???" and seeing what you're doing I'm feeling guilty about that now. I'm glad you didn't roller paint it last fall.
In reply to mazdeuce - Seth :
Me too. This is that last 10% that takes 90% of the time and effort. I think the fenders only had tack welds and duct tape at last year's Challenge, and I still got a 19 concours. I have a vision for the body and paint that I'm very excited to fully execute this time. I've even been collecting old election signs on the side of the road for my eco-modders inspired coroplast air dam/splitter concept... yeah it's about to get weird.
In reply to maschinenbau :
I think I would have squared the door instead. What you did here looks great with the door closed, but the part of the rocker panel that sticks up is going to catch and tear on clothing if the door gets used as a door.
Took the bumper off and weighed it. 36 pounds! Now what to do with this ugly rear fascia...
How about this rain gutter that fell off my rental house during a storm. The land lord replaced it, but left the old broken one in the yard.
Hmmm. Let's trim it down and see what happens.
That...worked surprisingly well. I think it might look okay when everything is smoothed over and painted. But it is literally garbage.
maschinenbau said:Took the bumper off and weighed it. 36 pounds! Now what to do with this ugly rear fascia...
How about this rain gutter that fell off my rental house during a storm. The land lord replaced it, but left the old broken one in the yard.
Hmmm. Let's trim it down and see what happens.
That...worked surprisingly well. I think it might look okay when everything is smoothed over and painted. But it is literally garbage.
What part of a regular 210 wagon is not? However, this is FAR from a regular 210 wagon at this point!
You have literally made one of the most eco friendly hot rods ever! Re-use recycle.... rad!
Garbage in the nicest way possible.
For whatever reason, I see a need for ‘60’s era ‘bumper horns’, being added to this
that opinion might change if a diffuser is in the plan, though
Just read through the post challenge part of this and am really liking it. Didn’t know you lived around Atlanta that’s awesome hopefully I can see this thing in person one day.
that looks soooo good.
keep it up!
wvumtnbkr said:I just use 1/8 rod and weld it I.
Me too, best part is as you tack it up the heat will make it follow the curve with minimal work.
Looks good from here. Nice use of re purpose for a purpose. Keep up the good work. I think "carbage is more appropriate.
Looks great!
What a fun build, thanks for [continued] sharing!
damen
In reply to Bttowns :
Maybe I'll host a build weekend once it gets warm again. Also planning on the first SCCA Solo down at Atlanta Motor Speedway next month. If anyone would like to see it in person, you'll see it there!
More tin work. Removing the rear bumper exposed a lot of rust holes, along with others near the hatch seal. I often use the tape transfer method for templates, so I took a lot of pictures for one of the patches to show my process.
This corner patch is a good example. First I cut a nice window of rust out. Straight sides make trimming the patch easier. Then tape over the window, trying to emulate the curve you want.
I used an exacto knife to slice out the tape template.
Then stick it on your "fresh" sheetmetal and cut around the tape.
Hammer form in the bench vise until the curve matches up.
Good fitment welds better. In between these pictures is a bit of careful bench grinding until it fit just right.
Not bad!
Repeat on the other side. Also notice the hatch seal ridge thing is now whole again.
So much better. I won't bore yall with passenger side fender well progress, because it's a repeat of the driver's side, but it is going well. I acquired a new free filing cabinet which should finish this car out.
I use the same tape trick, Works quite well.
In reply to NOHOME :
Come to think of it, I might have learned that trick from one of your threads several years ago
Love that tape trick! I'm just now starting to get my feet wet with welding in patch panels for rust repair and I can already see how that would be very helpful.
Keep up the great work!
More little patches, plus the passenger side fender well and wide-body rockers are complete.
I did a much better job on this side.
Rocker forming trick
Now, about those front fenders...
I want to extend them the entire length of the front fender, starting from the leading edge of the front doors and ending where the air dam will begin. The tape line parallel with the body crease, which shows how crooked I placed these the first time. Front bumper will be dropped and replaced with a flat, smooth air dam made from election signs I've been hoarding since November. That's a tall order before the first autocross in two weeks. We'll see what happens.
As always, I find your builds incredibly resourceful and pragmatic, not to mention, just plain awesome.
I wondered if you had any advice on paring an OBD2 harness down to work without TPMS, airbag, ABS, etc. etc. I am eyeballing a similar situation, and understand from reading the thread, some of your approach is to keep a scanner ap plugged in at all times, but would love it if you could give me some notes.
Of course, I respect your time, and have no wish to encroach.
In reply to wheelsmithy :
I really appreciate the feedback! The car runs and drives fine without the scanner plugged in. The only codes it throws are related the downstream O2 sensors (non existent), the cruise control (also not there), and the fuel tank temperature (not plugged in). I just check periodically to make sure that's all its doing. ABS lights are also on, but I think I can fix that. It's either the solenoids need to be plugged back in or there are some blown/missing fuses. Unfortunately, ABS not working means the speedometer doesn't work in this car. It doesn't see to care about TPMS or airbags. The airbag light is on, but it doesn't affect the powertrain in this case. My advice would be to start with a complete running car if possible, swap in the entire harness, both engine and body harness, and get it running with all the extra crap plugged in. Be armed with a FSM and make smart cuts. At one point I had the body harness and cluster hanging on the front bumper with the engine running so I could work near my bench as I pared it down.
Edit: And please encroach!
all I asked was what wire dia for the mig .....wattage........and wire speed feed when stitching these thin wall panels in place...OK?
I use a Lincoln MIG 175 with 0.030 and C25 mix set to lowest power and speed about 3 or 4 out of 10 or whatever the max is. I would like to try thinner wire but haven't bothered to buy the pulleys for the machine. 0.030 is flexible for a project car though. I used it for a lot structural welds on this build. But the sheetmetal welding is lots of quick shirt pulses and waiting for the prior bead to cool.
Weather was nice so I went for a little shakedown drive. It hasn't been on the road since I started the bodywork, or since I put tires on the Jeep wheels, so it was about time. Plus a rough day at work. So I got home and jumped in the Datsun.
Right off the bat I am reminded how "sinusoidal" the steering feel is, which translates to twitchy steering. This is due to a large angle on the steering shaft u-joint, which might need some attention. Alignment may also be off. Never checked it yet.
Pulling out of the driveway of course I stomp on it and instantly lay a nice 11 in the street and almost end up in someone's yard. I forgot how fast it is! The 200tw Rivals pick up tons of pebbles and fling them all over my newly fabbed fender wells, which makes quite the racquet since they're metal. The hatch bangs around because its missing a trim piece and some weather stripping. I can also hear the front fenders flopping and crashing around. It sounds like it's constantly in a car wreck going over bumps, but it's better than I remember due to the recent bodywork.
Surprisingly, the speedometer now works! All I had to do was plug in the ABS module. I unoblted the valve block to save weight but it still works. Of course the speed is reading very high since I'm on 225/45R15 compared to the much taller stock 215/55R17. The tires grip way better than I can test on the urban roads near my house. The exhaust is SO LOUD and awesome. I floored it through a tunnel and it sounded like front row on the longest straight of an F1 race. I'm really excited for autocross next weekend. Also, fender mirrors make everything 100% awesomer even though they're completely useless and only get in the way when working under the hood.
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