Why remove the floor???
Why remove the floor???
Dusterbd13-michael said:Why remove the floor???
The question really is remove the floor now or later. I will need to remove it to appropriately weld to lengthen the wheelbase.
So I could leave it and get the car running first, then remove it later to extend. That's another option.
My gut feeling is that you extend the frame now. Yes, shaking down the engine is important... but a longer frame and wheelbase are going to have non-trivial impacts on the karts dynamics. Better to get all of the "big changes" nailed down now... so that way the refinement spirals after testing are more constrained.
imho, etc
37 hours after another hour of organizing and cleaning. Why do I let my shop get so messy?
Anyway. I think I have arranged a deal for some recoup, which is a nice thing. Also, found a 4ft by 6ft 3/8 aluminum plate for sale. I might be going to pick it up this weekend.
I think I'll remove the bottom now. Even if it just means I get a clearer look at what I have to do.
Bottom removed. Even had a bit of help today!
Of course we had to go for the driver shot too.
In reply to Robbie :
That's some serious Gs it's pulling.
Today I learned:
I need to learn to weld good so others don't take apart my cars and ridicule me mercilously on the internet.
I came across some very questionable stuff today!
In reply to Robbie :
That is quite a driver you have there, she looks like she might have some flare for presentation as well. You should have her do the concourse presentation.
In reply to Fladiver64 :
I think "flare for presentation" nails it.
Bagged and tagged.
Ran out of square bar, but I've got this big bolt. Don't worry, no one will see were covering it with roll bar padding.
I have to believe this was intentional, but I have no idea what it would be for.
The final bit of floor wouldn't come out because someone tried to weld these seat rails in with the floor in place.
Cut out, and then got the floor out too.
No day like the present day to start cutting.
There's really not much to this thing. Adding a roll bar back in might do me some good.
Rear springs. Hehe.
The whole rear swingarm stands up on its own, and rolls around easy. It does not like to turn however.
Diagonals cut at front hoop.
My current inner debate. To cut the existing main hoop right at the bottom, or do I leave a bit there like up to the top of that seat back brace?
I don't want to cut something out that might be useful later, but I don't think it will be useful.
This pic might help show my plan.
I've decided that the main roll hoop should move back (this is because the main roll hoop is right about where the shifter is in the datsun currently). That means the engine sits in the further back position I've been debating from earlier.
I've got easy space to move the main hoop about 8-10 inches back, maybe 12. So I'm going to cut it and the front and rear diagonals out. New hoop, new front and rear diagonals out of 1 and 3/4 tube. I will extend the bottom tubes in front of the main hoop before I replace the front diagonals.
Now, to get some tube.
Are you planning on replacing the lower frame rails as well? Not sure the diameter of the lower frame rails but looks like 1" or so, How are you going to weld a 1 3/4 tube to a smaller tube. i t looks like the current system is a plate welded to the tube then the bar welded to that. To me that does not look like a strong connection since the only contact point is the edge of the tubing.
I think you could have a problem with tech as well because it states welding roll bar to frame is permitted. "Also, the roll bar may be welded to frame connectors that are fully welded in place and are 1 5/8 inches x .118-inch MS or .083-inch CM round and/or 2 inch x 2 inch x .058 MS or CM rectangular" I am not sure that if your frame is only 1" diameter, they are going to let that pass.
If you are moving the main hoop back because it fits the car better, wont you have to move the steering column back the same amount? Then extend the chassis from the steering column loop to the front suspension.
You might consider building a new center section, main hoop, lower frame rails from rear diagonals to length chassis needs to be extended, front diagonals, dash bar. Then create a sleeve system to put the existing front suspension in the new larger lower frame rails.
It seams like a lot of work but I think you are going to end up doing most of it anyway, so might be easier to start fresh.
What a mess. I kinda feel like I should have kept it hidden away in storage until I fixed all the ugly before letting it leave. I guess it would no longer have served this purpose at that point though.....
I have a brand new motorcycle gauge cluster i got from ebay that i couldn't adapt to the amc.
Want it?
Dusterbd13-michael said:I have a brand new motorcycle gauge cluster i got from ebay that i couldn't adapt to the amc.
Want it?
Maybe! What is it from?
Yesterday I turned my attention to needed maintenance while I think about the chassis issues. And this guy was high on the list. There was a worrying amount of free play in the wheel before the rack moved. Plus it was greasy and nasty.
Luckily, it is VERY simple inside and I don't think it is worn out or anything. I'll be cleaning it up, re greasing, and setting the lash appropriately. I also need to check that the holes on the front and back aren't wallowed out. For this design, the front and rear plates need to hold the shaft in place. If the shaft can move a bit, that would allow for slop in the steering wheel not being transferred into rack motion.
I also spent some time yesterday cleaning and taking photos of recoup parts. Hoping to post those on eBay this week (since I'm traveling for work).
Current hour total about 47.
Robbie said:Dusterbd13-michael said:I have a brand new motorcycle gauge cluster i got from ebay that i couldn't adapt to the amc.
Want it?
Maybe! What is it from?
Cheap Chinese labor.
I bought it as a universal one with a shift light and speedometer and warning lights and everything. Think I paid like 30 bucks for it back then. I'm never actually going to use it might as well give it to you if you can
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
You mean something like this?
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F273382635101
That's a really nice offer and im not sure I'm worthy!
I have the stock gauge cluster from the bike I'm currently planning to use, but something like that might be nice for getting an accurate speedometer. Let me do a bit of research to see if that could work for my specific application
Exactly that one actually.
Let me know. Tours for shipping if you want
I've only read page one and ten yet (gotta go do somthing constructive at work for now!), but I say your worthy for just haveing the nerve to attack this !!!! Cant wait to see where this goes. Loving it.
After a week away in NYC for work, I'm back at it this morning! 48 hours total.
Started templating for the aluminum motor mounts.
Next will be to practice on something more substantial but still much cheaper than aluminum.
03Panther said:I've only read page one and ten yet (gotta go do somthing constructive at work for now!), but I say your worthy for just haveing the nerve to attack this !!!! Cant wait to see where this goes. Loving it.
Thanks!
Just caught up. 48 hours in already! Damn dude, don't do this to yourself! I prefer not to know how big of a waste of time my car lyfe is (lol).
Over/under on total time invested? Do you think you'll hit that magic 1000 hour mark?!
I'll place first bet. I'm betting the following:
You can beat those times like a drum, get it!
Also, please stop going to NY. Killing the flow.
In reply to RACEC4R :
* Looks squarely in eye, grabs hand, and with a slightly creepy, maniacal smile, says "you're on" *
49 hours. Did other side, started cutting plywood, one side surprisingly almost fit first try!
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