In reply to Robbie (Forum Supporter) :
Regarding maintenance, just remember that sometimes a cutoff wheel & a welder can be faster than a ratchet.
In reply to Robbie (Forum Supporter) :
Regarding maintenance, just remember that sometimes a cutoff wheel & a welder can be faster than a ratchet.
Glad to see the mount plates in place!
In reply to 03Panther :
And now they are tacked!
(After tons more measurements and nail biting and consternation). But the assembly does slide as it should, and best I can tell the output shaft is nearly parallel to the axle. There aren't many good reference points on the outside of the motor to measure to.
Next up is cleaning and prepping the real engine. Here's what I'm starting with.
First thing is to clean out the intakes. I have no idea how long this engine has been sitting, and I can't see anything metallic, but there is sawdusty papery junk in there, as well as oily carbony junk. Any tips?
216 hours.
https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ank/pts/d/isle-race-car-frames/7127366597.html
In case you need more frame bits
shopvac with a smaller hose taped on?
wheelsmithy (Joe-with-an-L) (Forum Supporter) said:shopvac with a smaller hose taped on?
This. It works well!
Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter) said:wheelsmithy (Joe-with-an-L) (Forum Supporter) said:shopvac with a smaller hose taped on?
This. It works well!
Thanks for the tip guys! It does work well.
This morning I used an old toothbrush and the shop vac trick to clean it up pretty good. The bottom half of the case is more grimy with oil slime, so that will wait till I hit it with degreaser. But the top cleaned up really well with toothbrush agitation and vacuum removal.
Next I removed the spark plugs to check em out. They look really nice actually.
Then I turned the engine over by hand a bit. Seems good.
Then I put the plugs back in and started prepping for degreaser and hose.
217 hours.
Well, it was raining this morning so instead of outside with a hose I cleaned inside with CRC Engine Degreaser (grm - anyone listening?) and rags and nylon brushes.
It came out really clean. Unfortunately I found two things:
1. There was a lot more gunk on the water pump than anywhere else. The clutch rod seal may have something to do with that.
i think replacing that seal means splitting the case...
2. The clutch cover bolts were all loose. So I looked inside.
you guessed it, no clutch.
So, now I need to do a bit of digging before I move forward. This engine was cheap, but I don't remember it being advertised as missing a clutch. I do have another clutch that's already in budget from the parts engine, so that is fine would probably just need to re-assemble. But, then that clutch rod seal worries me. So I need to check out this engine a bit more thoroughly before I move forward.
i think I can run the starter just by connecting a battery - to the engine case and battery + to the starter post. That means I could compression test. I also need to lookup the procedure on replacing that seal.
dang. 218 hours.
another ebay sale rolled in on the honda VFR engine parts - the CDI ignition boxes and their holder sold for $50. After shipping and fees I profit $37.85. Recoup at $499.61
Robbie (Forum Supporter) said:you guessed it, no clutch.
Well that's a surprise.
The bummer endeepens ...
I took the oil pan off to have a quick look and found big chunks of what seemed like thin copper. Forgot to take a pic, but I'm worried it's bearing or (hopefully) something in the clutch or trans.
Anyway, I decided that I needed to compression test this guy before I go too much further into teardown.
Setup and some oil added, but I need a different adapter for my compression tester to fit this spark plug hole.
220 hours.
I feel like a Debbie downer but that motor just says trouble to me. I bet a new clutch was put in, the motor went south and they just pulled their $250 investment out.
Hope I'm wrong but there has got to be a better option avail within budget, yes?
jfryjfry (Forum Supporter) said:I feel like a Debbie downer but that motor just says trouble to me. I bet a new clutch was out in, the motor went south and they just pulled their $250 investment out.
Hope I'm wrong but there has got to be a better option avail within budget, yes?
I was feeling pretty beat up about this motor last night too, I'm actually hoping they busted something in the trans. The budget thing is an interesting question.
This motor is one that was advertised on Ebay as good, but hadn't been run in a while. It was in homestead FL, and the seller said he absolutely would not ship it. It was auction style and not buy it now style like most parts. Minimum bid was $20, so I bid figuring I could ask someone to pick it up for me and ship it, but if not then $20 was not a big loss. No one else bid on the auction. Another GRMer was nice enough to pick it up for me and pallet it and ship it to me, and that cost was about $125. So I'm into this one for $145. I have another motor that was sold to me from a guy pulling it from his dwarf car (busted 2nd gear), but he included another gearset that was good but not installed. That motor was shipped to me for $485 total. So it's technically a $340 budget hit to use the dwarf motor (also assuming it is good).
Right now on ebay gsxr1000 motors are nuts prices. Like one is $650 plus one-hundred-something shipping with a HOLE IN THE BLOCK from a rod punching through. And there is a bid on that one.
Now, I may be able to fit the extra $340 in my budget as is. Or I can get creative in a multitude of ways (maybe I can leverage the fact that the $145 engine was advertised as good, so even though it may not be maybe I can use an engine that is good and is a direct replacement instead). I do still have the CBR600 engine and I think most of what I need to run it - that would actually save me up to $650 in budget but at the expense of 150ish hp from the GSXR1000 vs 100ish from the 600.
Drug out my 3rd engine. The one missing the clutch also has issues shifting through all the gears, so I'm growing more confident it is a trans issue. I should be getting the compression tester adapter that I need later today.
I guess it is possible that I have mixed up the two motors. The $485 one I bought with knowing there was a 2nd gear trans issue.
However, what I really should do is sell this stuff on eBay right now... I'd be rich!
Today I decided I'm just going to toss one engine on the car and see if I can start it and go from there. I started to pull the plug for the crank bolt access cover on the 3rd engine and promptly stripped the allen key hole.
That's about when I said to myself "enough messing around, just install the damn engine and see if it runs". Everything before that is just posturing.
Today I fought through some sillyness like messed up threads in the motor mount holes and this fitting that has been added to the oil system, maybe this was for an accusump?
It's installed with a bushing that you can barely see and I don't know how to get it out without damaging it. So for now I put a temporary rubber cap on. It'll probably leak like crazy when I start and idle the motor.
Other than that, engine is mounted in frame. Next up I'll be connecting minimum ancillaries and electronics (and a muffler) and adding oil to try and fire it up.
Yeah, you'll have to put a flare cap or something to stop the oil from flowing. I would do that before you start it, because leaving it uncontained will create a low oil pressure scenario for anything downstream of that hole, and that would be bad. Could be your mains and rods, lol.
If it was indeed for an accusump, that goes in upstream of all things. So cap it. Please.
In reply to RACEC4R :
Yeah I looked through all my fittings and stuff. the hole in the block is filled by a plug on the standard motorcycle, and I think it is the main oil galley (gallery?) as it goes across the whole motor side to side. There is a threaded plug on each end. but to install this fitting, they installed a bushing, and without removing that bushing I can't use a plug from one of my other blocks.
That bushing has an M10x1.0 thread in it, so I don't have any bolts that fit into it. That said, I think I have a fitting that fits and converts to an AN adapter, and I have an AN fitting that screws onto that, which is a 90 elbow leading to a barb fitting, which I could clamp a rubber hose onto, and then clamp a bolt into the other end of the hose to plug it all up.
The whole thing would actually function as a tiny accusump anyway. hahaha.
What i can see of the fitting past your finger looks like an an or jic nipple. May be just as easy as that to cap it properly. Theyre available locally as gas line fittings in the plumbing department.
Post a better picture please
The brass fitting you're holding is almost certainly 1/8 NPT on one end and AN on the other. 1/8 NPT will have threads that are approximately the same as m10 x 1.0 except they taper. Any hardware store 1/8 NPT plug should fit.
Titan4 said:The brass fitting you're holding is almost certainly 1/8 NPT on one end and AN on the other. 1/8 NPT will have threads that are approximately the same as m10 x 1.0 except they taper. Any hardware store 1/8 NPT plug should fit.
You sir are exactly right. And all y'all in this thread gave me an idea:
I have this $3 summit racing special oil pressure gauge that's been kicking around my garage for years.
Guess what it has? Yep, the correct 1/8 NPT fitting to screw right in.
Oil pressure isn't a bad metric to have available when I start this up and see if it runs! Can even check if I get oil psi on the starter alone first.
I had some decent suggestions, but I like your solution best!
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