Robbie (Forum Supporter) said:hmm, interesting. The collars I have do not have a keyway in them, they just are a circle-shaped inner diameter with a set screw. Is that the kind of collar you are referencing?
I have used split collars with a key in them in the past. Lemme see if McMaster car has them. If not, I know they sell gears with keyways that you could use in the same manner.
https://www.mcmaster.com/split-shaft-collars/for-shaft-type~keyed/
Here ya go!
What I have done in the past is weld 1 half of the collar to the hub. That way it's still removable, but holds better than just butting against the hub.
wvumtnbkr said:
What I have done in the past is weld 1 half of the collar to the hub. That way it's still removable, but holds better than just butting against the hub.
That may actually defeat part of the purpose. If the collar remains independent of the rotational force it would help hold the key tight in the way, against that rotational force.
Once the collar is fixed to the hub it will want to twist right along with the sprocket. It would provide more surface area, but not much other benefit.
gumby said:wvumtnbkr said:
What I have done in the past is weld 1 half of the collar to the hub. That way it's still removable, but holds better than just butting against the hub.I believe that may defeat part of the purpose. If the collar remains independent of the rotational force it would help hold the key tight in the way, against that rotational force.
Once the collar is fixed to the hub it will want to twist right along with the sprocket. It would provide more surface area, but not much other benefit.
Wvu has the right product, Gumby the right idea. The collars hold the key to the shaft better. Resist twisting the key.
gumby said:wvumtnbkr said:
What I have done in the past is weld 1 half of the collar to the hub. That way it's still removable, but holds better than just butting against the hub.That may actually defeat part of the purpose. If the collar remains independent of the rotational force it would help hold the key tight in the way, against that rotational force.
Once the collar is fixed to the hub it will want to twist right along with the sprocket. It would provide more surface area, but not much other benefit.
It's also clamping to the shaft. I can see what you mean though. It just worked better for me in a similar situation when it was attached and acted as a larger surface area and was independently clamped.
Get a flange that mounts to the sprocket, weld the flange to the shaft, bolt sprocket onto flange? Hell, weld one half of the collar to the sprocket so that you still get both advantages of the collar mentioned above.
Another alternative, there is roughly 3 inches of real estate on either end of that shaft. You could cut it down and lose that real estate or slide it over an inch every time. Figure out a new method of removing the wheels?
Well I'm going to get some of those collars for sure.
I finished getting the axle over. Still not easy to add and remove wheels. I think flares are in order.
Good news is flares. Bad news is I have to take the time to do it...
Maybe an interesting idea? This is the inner fender I cut out...
499 hours.
Trailer fenders? Cut in half a an angle? They are cheap.
Zip tie on some plastic garden edging.
In reply to Apexcarver :
That's so good!
If I do anything other than bending the current metal up and out, it will be closer to the garden edging solution.
In other news, I got the rear axle over as far as I want it and now just need to cut the end off and retighten everything.
Then I got my wife to come out and take a fun pic in honor of 500 hours.
I'm not nearly as ripped as the guy holding up the mustang.
I have no words. Your 500hr pic is amazing.
I just want to know how that conversation went.. did you have the shirt off and helmet on when she came out? Like was this a surprise to her?
nocones said:I have no words. Your 500hr pic is amazing.
I just want to know how that conversation went.. did you have the shirt off and helmet on when she came out? Like was this a surprise to her?
It can't have been a a real issue for someone that has been to multiple challenges.
"Honey, I want to do something kinda silly for a car picture"
"Again!?!?!"
Admittedly she takes this stuff in stride. Usually when we try to explain this stuff to other people, she says "I knew this about him before we got married". Love you cutie!
Anyway, today I did an hour this morning and cut off the 5 inches.
I also started tightening down every single fastener on the axle. I might as well start that process moving from the back to the front. Still need to make a new key or two (they're wear items right!?!). But the sprocket is in a much better spot.
501 hrs.
In reply to Robbie (Forum Supporter) :
They are wear items, it's also notable that you can get slightly oversized keystock from McMaster that will help if it's still a touch wallerd out. Ideally keystock is a slightly interference fit.
Spent an hour today working on a rear flare.
Since someone had lovingly rolled this fender in sometime during the last fifty years, I screwed it up with a screwdriver. Then I cut out the inner fender.
The driver fender has been "worked on" before so I decided to start with the passenger fender.
First I removed the paint, drew a line, and flattened out the existing flare.
Then I got to work with a hammer and dolly and a c clamp. Never done any hammer and dollying before. But before long I had this, and the wheel fit.
So, overall not bad! I'm still going to try and roll the outer lip in so it's not sharp. I dunno. Making this up as I go here.
Also, rear axle is fully back together.
503 hours.
Or maybe some split rubber molding around the edge?
I welded 1/8" steel rod around the edges of Datsanitis fenders to soften the sharpness. Rubber molding molding would be way easier though and could look pretty cool.
I thought about the rubber stuff too. Unfortunately it's too late, decision already made.
I drew another line and used vice grips to fold the first 90 and then hammer and dolly to finish it off. I'm darn happy with how these came out.
The other side had all the Bondo and work from someone long before me. I started using a screwdriver to remove the Bondo because it was faster than the grinder in some places!
Just to get the thickness in your minds...
Anyway, I followed the same process but I was faster this time.
Are they semetrical? No idea, but luckily you only see one side of the car at any given time! Good news is now both rear wheels fit on and off, and should have good clearance.
I also probably dropped full pounds of Bondo off this fender, so that's cool. As I was sitting there grinding it back, I wondered about who put it on. Was it the car owner who worked this same panel long before me? Was it a body professional? What were they thinking about when they did it? Fun times.
505 hrs.
Those flares look awesome. Nice work man.
Awesome flares.
What happened to that fender though? It looks like woodpeckers attacked it.
nocones said:Awesome flares.
What happened to that fender though? It looks like woodpeckers attacked it.
There's a pic somewhere in this thread of bondo squeezed through those holes like Play-Doh, so I'm thinking the previous owner made the holes to hold the bondo on there.
So how is it getting the rear wheels on and off now?
AWSX1686 (Forum Supporter) said:So how is it getting the rear wheels on and off now?
oh now they fit on and off great. I wouldn't have stopped flaring until they did!
Awesome!
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