Dear John, Boat thread. Suprise! It's become a project.

If you don't know that the water pump has been replaced, do one. On saltwater boats, I would do them annually. Not necessarily because the pumps are worn out, but to keep the bolts and such from locking up in the lower unit and pump assembly. I service or at least check the gear oil in the foot fairly regularly as well. Not because the oil goes bad, but to keep an eye on the water intrusion in the foot. 

And speaking of bolts, you are going to be using it in saltwater so use anti seize on EVERYTHING. If in doubt, put more on it. It can make the difference between a 45 minute pump replacement and a 4 day pump replacement. 

Mr_Asa said:

What is the model number on it?

https://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=2001&hp=25&model=J25RVSID

Looking at this, the only thing we missed was there appears to be a fuel screen as well.  Always a good idea to check those at least, make sure the fuel has been clean.

This is great, thanks.  I know where to look for car stuff, but boats are new to me.  I'll get an order placed and plan to so PM.

Marine Engine is a good resource to track down parts, but by no means is it a good price point.  Do some searching with the part number, and ask around for local parts stores that are reliable

Love the project, but I have a question... what's the last W for?  

She Who Must Be W_____ Obeyed

Willingly?

Wildly?

Woefully?

ebelements said:

Love the project, but I have a question... what's the last W for?  

She Who Must Be W_____ Obeyed

Willingly?

Wildly?

Woefully?

This is a valid question.  Maybe I should have typed SWMBLO (lovingly)?  

This week i added trailer guides and a new rear roller.  I was going to be creative and use some extra pvc for the l poles, but hit the easy button and bought a set online for $70.  Hardware was included and the install only took 20 minutes. 

We also registered the boat and trailer for two years.  

I also bought a bimini on ebay for $75 and installed it.  Pretty nice Piece for the money.  It doesn't provide much shade when the sun is low, but it is an improvement.

I wanted to mount the guides farther back, but the light brackets were in the way

I gave up on wiring the tail lights, i think there's an issue w my vehicle harness.  Luckily kur boat launch is only a few hundred yards down the road.  Most the boats there don't have plates or working lights.  I'll tackle that this week.  I may move the guide poles farther back and mount the lights on them.

I woke up early and went fishing this AM with the wife and kid.  We only caught a few small whiting, catfish, amd a small grouper.  None of them worth keeping.  With the motor up we only draw a few inches so it's easy to get around.  The 25hp also moves quick enough to keep up with traffic.

The boat really smelled like fuel.

I found one source for the fuel smell in the boat.  The bulb in the fuel line was leaking when priming the engine. I already bought a replacement and now that problem is solved.

Unfortunately, that didn't explain the extent of the fuel smell.  Once i got home i could see that the carb looked wet and there was gas pooling under it.  The fuel line that goes to the choke had split.  Whenever i pulled the choke it would spit fuel.  This males since, because the choke didn't want to stay in.  It looks like a pretty simple fix.  What's weird, is all the fuel lines use zip ties as fasteners...is that normal?!?

Also, should there be an air filter on this carb?

Finally, the boat is definitely leaking at one of the seams.  I'll need to buy some caulk.  The marine stuff is +$30 a tube.  Worth it?

I still need read up on the service manual and order parts for preventative maintenane.

No air filter on an outboard. I guess the idea is that there's no dust or dirt flying around out on the water!

Some of the older engines (The Lark III I'm rebuilding, but not my older 50s models) have a carb cover that is similar to weber ITB screens, looks like yours has some provisions on the carb for something, but not a carb filter.  They may have been used on a previous model motor.

Late model OMC motors use a kind of snap-clip thing that isn't quite a zip tie, but could look like one to a quick glance.  No clue how well they hold up long term.  I would just use fuel injection style clamps.

Find exactly where the leak is, with your boat I would bet that it is actually just a rivet that has gotten loose, If so you can just get a hammer and anvil and give it a good smack to seal it.  Sealant also works, but that's the traditional method.  I've seen people drip clear epoxy into the seams as well.

In reply to Mr_Asa :

Interesting.  I know exactly where the leak is so i'll have to investigate that. Thanks!

In reply to Hoondavan :

When I was a boy, I had a riveted 12' Jon boat with a 1956 Sea King 5hp. Every spring my dad and I would go through and tighten up all the rivets. We would flip the boat upside down on some saw horses. I would get under it and hold the anvil hammer (3lb sledge), he would smack the rivet with a ball peen. We would do every rivet in the hull. 

I strongly suggest ear protection. I may still be a little deaf from that. 

In reply to Toyman01 (Moderately Supportive Dude) :

Ear protection for that kind of thing is crucial.  I have a set of over-ear covers that I use whenever I use a saw, grinder, or use a hammer.  If I ever forget the ear protection I can feel it later.  My hearing is decent normally, but I used to play guitar in bands and didn't use ear protection until I was a bit older.  I also went to countless concerts without ear protection (doh!).  I eventually bought a nice expensive pair of musician-specific ear plugs.  I also bring my own plugs whenever I see a live show. I don't always use them, but it's nice to have them when needed.  

I found the part number for the leaking fuel line and it's a 1/16" size (it's the choke primer line).  I'm too impatient to sit around and wait a week for the kit to show up so I'm looking for an alternative.  It looks like Lowes has a weed wacker kit that includes a length of 1/16" fuel line.  I'll call the west marine nearby, but they don't have it listed on their website.

We finally got out on the boat after work last night.  MiniMe caught a decent sized Jack (maybe 14") and a catfish. We didn't keep either.  We did make some progress improving the boat.

We don't have far to drive, but I'd really like to have working trailer lights.  I put all new wires and lights on the trailer.  Unfortunately, the harness in the Jeep doesn't have a working left side blinker.  Everything else works (can't remember if the brake light on that side works though).  None of the lights on the minivan harness work.  The boat ramp is only 1/4 mile away...but I'll still need to figure out why the van harness isn't working.

SWMBO "fixed" the leaky seam by spraying the inside of the seam w/clear flex-seal (face-palm).  I suppose it's not stupid if it works...but it's not how I would have done it.  I didn't notice any loose rivets but I did seal the outer seam w/marine Loc-Tite seam caulk and it seems to be much better.  There was still a little water in the boat that probably didn't come from wet shoes...but way less then before.

Finally addressed the fuel leak in the choke line.  I picked up a 1/16" ID fuel line from a local lawn mower repair shop, but the other diameter was much thinner than the existing line so I decided not to use it.  As a temporary fix I shortened the line that had split and reattached it.  This worked while I tested it at home, but failed within minutes of putting the boat in the water.  I did order the correct replacement from a marine supply shop and had it with me when we took the boat out last night on a whim.  It only took 2 minutes to put the new line on and I kicked myself for not doing it before we left. 

I did order a new water pump kit and fuel screen today.  I think replacing this as a preventative measure a good recommendation.  Thanks for the advice on this.

SWMBO and MiniMe have managed to load and unload the boat by themselves (I only drive the minivan and back up the trailer).   The engine also occasionally stumbles and sometimes dies at idle, so I'm not sure how well she'd want to run the boat on her own....but we do have a solution.  T

We've been talking about getting a trolling motor to easier access some of intercostal fishing spots.  I'll have to research what kind of shaft length we'll need.  Minn-Kota makes a 30lb thrust motor with a 30" shaft length for $100 that would probably be fine.   I do wonder if it's worth spending the extra hundred bucks to go with a 45 lb thrust (36" shaft length).  There are plenty of fishing spots where we could launch and run off just the trolling motor.  It's nice to go fast sometimes, but I also think it'd be way more relaxing to putt around in the creeks with a trolling motor.  Let me know if you have any advice on this.  It's a 14' john boat...I'm unsure of the weight.

I’m kind of a stickler when it comes to using blinkers.  Driving a trailer without functioning trailer lights really bothered me.  I’ve taken the boat ½ mile down the road to our local intracoastal ramp…but I’ve been hesitant to go any farther than that w/out working trailer lights.   The right blinker was working...and both turns where I might have someone driving behind me were right turns...so it was reasonably safe.   Most the boats at our ramp don't have license plates, let alone working lights...lol.  I should move the lights to the guide posts...the left one is already filling up with water so it probably won't last too long.

The family minivan we bought last year (2008 Honda Odyssey) came equipped with a U-Haul tow bar and wiring.  After replacing the trailer lights and wiring (no luck) I used my HF multimeter and determined the U-haul wiring had an issue.   In order to troubleshoot this I’d have remove the bumper to start checking wires to/from the control box. Luckily, a bit of internet research identified the fact that the Odyssey came equipped with a tow module.  The solution was a simple $40 Curt trailer kit that plugs directly into the rear electrical panel and the problem was solvedin <10 minutes. 

Last weekend SWMBO booked a cabin near Salt Springs, FL.  The kid really wanted to catch his first bass.  He hooked a few big ones but didn’t manage to get any in the boat…just a few small gars.   The van had no issues towing the trailer.  

We fished all three days and didn’t cover a ton of ground, but maybe spent an 60-90 minutes at full-throttle.  The boat ran well and maybe burned 3 gallons of gas the whole weekend.  We did have a weird issue surface twice the first day and it only happened when my wife decided she wanted to drive.  The boat started to bog and the engine seemed to buck under throttle.  Both times I cycled the shifter between reverse/neutral and it worked as normal within a minute or two.  The impellor was working...and it didn't happen again.  

My son bought a trolling motor, so even if we did have engine issues we’d be able to get back to the ramp…even if it was a little more slowly than expected.  We will need to fabricate a mount for the trolling motor.  The downside to a small boat is that there isn’t enough room on the transom to mount the trolling motor w/the outboard up.  It’s light enough that I can just take the trolling motor in/out easily.  A friend of mine built a plate to mount a trolling motor on the front of his jon boat so I’ll probably just do that, or mount it on the side/corner of the boat. 

I did take the boat out with just my son twice and we managed to get it in/out of the water pretty efficiently. 

Moving forward, I’ll prioritize some PM (impeller, water pump, fuel screen, and spark plug).  I did order the parts already.  I’m also not sure the choke is working correctly.  The pull-tab doesn’t seem to say all the way out on it’s own and I don’t really notice much of a difference in how the engine runs w/the choke engaged/disengaged…so I do wonder if it’s actually working correctly.  You may remember I did replace the fuel line from the choke to the carb (the line had split). Upon closer inspection I may have put the zip tie too far from the end of the hose…maybe It’s pinching the fuel flow.

There’s no way my wife can pull-start the boat.  I think my son can use the pull start…so I’ll probably ease him into starting & driving when we’re not in a high-traffic area.   Electric start would be really nice now that we’ll be fishing with a battery.  It looks like new kits are available for ~$600, but there are a few used setups on ebay that may work for < half the price of new.   It seems relatively straightforward:  replace the flywheel, add a starter, solenoid, & possibly some different carb fittings.  This won’t be top priority…but I may start checking around to see if I can find the parts cheaply.

On the older models I play with, a bog like that would be a symptom of the low speed circuit on the carb needing adjustment.  I dont know if those newer models have the same issue, though.

That it did it only once or twice tells me that maybe some trash is in the fuel bowl and blocked a circuit. 

Mr_Asa said:

On the older models I play with, a bog like that would be a symptom of the low speed circuit on the carb needing adjustment.  I dont know if those newer models have the same issue, though.

That it did it only once or twice tells me that maybe some trash is in the fuel bowl and blocked a circuit. 

Good observation, some debris in the bowl may be the issue.  Shifting gears may have been enough of a disruption to dislodge whatever was causing the blockage.  I was afraid the transmission may be freezing or something.  Either way I need to service the lower unit.  

The boat has been running pretty well and it's gotten plenty of use, even this winter.  Fishing on the intercoastal has slowed down a bit with lower water temps, but we have managed to get out once a week or so.  We've tried bass fishing inshore a few times, without much success...but the boat has been reliable.

I have discovered an issue with the choke that I'm trying to diagnose/fix.  There's a small fuel line coming form the choke that's split a few times now.  When pulling the choke out it doesn't really stay all the way out, so I figured it may be leaking somewhere...and it is.  I saw a small amount of fuel leaking by the pull handle. 

A new primer assembly is $100.  It may be a worn-out O-ring which can be replaced, but I may need to just replace the whole assembly...

Even if the choke was working right, I don't think SWMBO could pull-start it.  I really need to get serious about either buying an electric-start motor, or converting this one.

The Boat has been amazing for the last few months and I've really started to like it.  We've done lots of intercostal fishing, used fishing as an excuse for a nice sunset cruise, and found new creeks and estuarys.  We've also done a few more bass fishing trips inland (not much bass though).

There have been a few small issues.  The boat has continued to split the fuel lines that go from the choke to the carb.  It's not a major problem when it happens, it just takes a  little longer to start the boat and it's easy to replace the split line.  I'll order new lines from a better source than some random ebay supplier.  I did replace the choke/primer assembly a few weeks ago and it hasn't split a line yet.  Since then, it's started on ~1 or two pulls much more consistently.

The tuneup parts I ordered have been sitting in the garage since i ordered them.  I called the marine repair shop down the road and they indicated a water pump swap took about an hour and they charge $65/hour...sounds pretty reasonable to me.  I planned on taking it earlier this week, but FIL is in town and we didn't want to go the rest of the week without the boat.  Unfortunately, I went fishing w/kiddo and FIL last night and when we went to motor home at sunset it wouldn't start.  The fuel primer bulb didn't seem to get hard while the line was plugged in..which make me think/hope it's that simple as punishment for just buying a cheap fuel line on amazon. If the line isn't plugged in it does seem to get hard.  It took 90 minutes or so to get home w/the trolling motor.   It was pretty dark, (moon didn't rise until after 10pm) but luckily there was zero wind, zero other boat traffic and it was actually a really nice ride. Dolphins pretty pretty much followed us home while feeding.  I'm glad I didn't skimp out on the trolling motor and battery.

I've decided to hit the easy button on this one and let the mechanic deal with it.  I'm tempted to see if/where there's a fuel blockage...but I have front struts sitting in the garage that need to get put on my minivan.  Hopefully I can get the shocks done before the boat is ready. 

On a side-note...i found a digital owners manual (not repair book) for my engine.  The stuttering/stalling I experienced in the earlier post is actually a fail-safe for overheating.  If the engine gets too hot it limits the throttle application, which results in stuttering if you try to use too much throttle.  It hasn't happened since.

It's also time to get the boat set up better. Once the kiddo is done with school in a few weeks he's going to put a platform on the bow & make some storage.  We bought a fish finder/depth finder this winter and I (finally) installed the sensor last week.  I don't think the fish finder will be much help where we fish, but it would be really nice to know how deep things are w/out sticking an oar in the water. I'll wait until the interior is reorganized before final installation, but I do plan to finish up the wiring.  I plan to install a small switch panel so I can turn switch power on/off to different lights & the depth finder. The amount of fish activity while cruising home last night was impressive. Most of the docks have green lights to attract fish, so I definitely think we're going to some fishing for sea trout. I also want to get a pole light for gigging.

Finally, trailer lights have been a bit of a hassle.  One of the harbor freight units failed and the second one mostly works..except for when the running lights are on.  Saltwater is definitely an issue.  I'm going to mount the lights on the guide pole this time...that should help keep them out of the saltwater and keep the connections dry.

We spend time on the salt creeks in our boat too. It's such a unique ecosystem to explore. I'm running a cheap WalMart depth finder and the Navionics Boating app on my phone. The combination is pretty useful even in the changing shoals in the creeks. 

You might want to check the area and see if there's a tow boat provider that covers it. Where we run between Savannah and Darien GA there's good coverage by Boat US. A plan costs a couple hundred bucks a year, but it's good peace of mind when you're out with your loved ones in an old boat. 

I just rewired the entire trailer and replaced the lights with new LED sets from Amazon. I swear the PO of the trailer used the cheapest wire I have ever seen, it was disintegrating at 2 years old. One tail light was half dead, probably from the salt. I disassembled the new ones and the LED boards are potted in to the lenses, but the edge seals aren't great. I RTV'd around the seams, we'll see if it helps. I suspect taillights are just a 2 year wear item like bearings. 

ultraclyde said:

We spend time on the salt creeks in our boat too. It's such a unique ecosystem to explore. I'm running a cheap WalMart depth finder and the Navionics Boating app on my phone. The combination is pretty useful even in the changing shoals in the creeks. 

You might want to check the area and see if there's a tow boat provider that covers it. Where we run between Savannah and Darien GA there's good coverage by Boat US. A plan costs a couple hundred bucks a year, but it's good peace of mind when you're out with your loved ones in an old boat. 

I just rewired the entire trailer and replaced the lights with new LED sets from Amazon. I swear the PO of the trailer used the cheapest wire I have ever seen, it was disintegrating at 2 years old. One tail light was half dead, probably from the salt. I disassembled the new ones and the LED boards are potted in to the lenses, but the edge seals aren't great. I RTV'd around the seams, we'll see if it helps. I suspect taillights are just a 2 year wear item like bearings. 

Good call on the boating app...I didn't realize that was a thing.  I use google maps to look for new creeks and check my location if I'm somewhere I'm not familiar with.  Also a good reminder about the BoatUS plans as well, they're pretty reasonable for what they provide.  We're usually close enough to home that the trolling motor is still probably faster than waiting for a tow...but did get lucky w/the conditions last night.  There are definitely days that a trolling motor would take a whole lot longer...and maybe even not be possible w/the wind and waves. 

I hadn't thought to adding additional sealing to the lamps.  When I do move the lights to the guide poles I'll add a layer lf silicon caulk.  The Harbor freight lamps lasted ~6 months.  Hopefully the wiring isn't' complete crap.  I reserached using differetn connectors, but it seem solder and heat-wrap is still the best option...and still should be expected to be repaired every 1-2 years. 

Best-case scenario on the engine issue I experienced last week.   After watching a few videos of how, I checked the carb and confirmed it was actually getting fuel.   I swapped in new spark plugs (the old ones looked pretty fouled) and it started first pull.  Went fishing Saturday & Sunday (not too far from home) and it ran better than it's ever run.  Unfortunately, the brand new primer/choke started leaking badly.  I'm guessing all the time trying to start it must have blown out a seal.  I put the old one back on and it doesn't seem to be leaking, so I'll leave it on until I hear back from Crowley marine about a replacement.  

The boat is at the repair shop now getting the water pump & fuel screen replaced. 

Well, I'm very glad I put this thread together because as issues have emerged I've been able to double-check the timeline.

Last I wrote, the boat failed to start while we were a few miles from home (April). I swapped out the spark plugs the next day and it started right up and ran perfectly for a short fishing trip.  Since the boat was due for a water pump refresh I took it into the local repair shop, rather than DIY.  

Unfortunately, once I got it back from the repair shop it failed to restart again and we limped to the nearest boat ramp w/the trolling motor.  The repair shop found a crusty wire connection and seemed to fix the issue...until I ran the boat again and it wouldn't restart when hot.  The next trip to the repair shop indicated the fuel pump was leaking.  They also replaced the power pack because they will sometimes only show failure when hot.  After that fix it failed to start while hot on two more short fishing trips.  In May we did use the boat for two full days of bass fishing, motoring across a decent size lake multiple times, but I'm not 100% sure if that was before or after the fuel pump/powerpack replacement. 

Last time we went fishing and it didn't start I noticed one of the plug wires has cracked and arcing.  Cheap plug wires delivered next-day seemed to fix the issue...until it didn't start again.   It seemed to have flooded based on the fact w/the plugs removed it was spraying gas (eventually got it started and limped home). Back to the shop again.  So far they've only charged me labor for the water pump and power pack (roughly $250) and another $50 or so for the water pump.  They've actually refused to take money for the time they've spent trouble-shooting so far.  The owner owned a boat dealership and running this shop is his retirement. 

They checked the carb, replaced the plugs and wires w/the correct parts, checked the flywheel key, checked compression & spark, checked my gas, tried other gas and still couldn't get it to turn over.  They're older guys and the pull start is just too tough for them to work with.    I stopped by today to take it home and find a deep spot in the river to unbolt the engine...and it started up on the first pull.  They were baffled...but I also spent a week trying to get it started only to have them start it up easily (!?!).  So, the boat is home I'm going to take it for a test cruise...but I'm expecting the hot-start issue to resurface.  IF (when?) the issue does resurface we'll try to return the power pack...it is remotely possible it's defective.

Until then, the boat won't venture outside of a comfortable trolling motor jaunt.  I'm definitely leaning towards just selling it as-is and getting something a little bigger with electric start. 

Took the boat out on Tuesday night and drove around for +2 hours.  Ran flawlessly.  Shut the motor off and sat ~10 minutes a couple of times and it started right up every time.  I didn't sit as long as if I was fishing...but hopefully it'll continue to cooperate/.

I guess the intermittent starting issue has been resolved.  My father-in-law came to visit and I've been on the boat every single day for two weeks and it's run flawlessly.  It's actually started on the 2nd pull when cold and the fist pull every time after the initial start.  The fishing has been best floating the creeks right after sunset and we've also had some luck fishing the green lights under some nearby docks.  

Fishing creeks for the last two weeks has really demonstrated the fact that fishing with +3 people is very cramped on the boat...and not really manageable with 4. The kid usually brings a friend fishing with him, which doesn't really leave enough room fro SWMBO to come with us.  

It time to part ways with this boat because I bought another one!  I'll add more details soon.  I think we've found a family friend to mostly gift this boat to.  I really like how lightweight and easy to maneuver it is...but it's just a bit too crowded without doing some serious remodeling of the deck.