Thanks again guys. I’ll have to see if I can talk him down lol. Also, he did build the other one so I do believe he may be capable of building something to the higher power level. But, if I were to build the car to have horsepower in the 400’s how would it act? Probably a dumb question but can I make it sound really good without putting in a cam that’s way too big?
In reply to YoungFanatic48 :
It's a V8. It'll sound good.
In reply to YoungFanatic48 :
my dad, who had a 2nd gen when he was in high school that he had making 526 horsepower
I will bet you anything that engine would have been torture to drive on the street. Engines are like the silicone tits of the car world; just buy what you want.
Go build a nice handling chassis with some good looking bodywork and then decide how big you need the tits to be to make it fun.
Could not find it, but there is a series on YouTube called "One Take" or "House of muscle" where the narrator goes into great detail about how 400 hp is the magic number of HP for a street car. Have you driven a car with 400 hp? ( and I would also argue that torque is more fun on a street car than hp)
Found it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Aj29Zf2Uua0
Pete
Thank you guys so much! I feel a lot more ready and prepared about all this now. Thanks again, it really means a lot for all the information. I know somebody mentioned stuff about the chassis before, but what all should I be doing for performance (really just handling now) do I need, and what more would you recommend I get?
In reply to YoungFanatic48 :
Look to Hotchkis, or Strano websites. Then brakes.... Wheels/Tires.... Get the chassis to turn and stop well. Because if you're swapping in an ls motor adding power won't be an issue (just$).
I see a lot of good advice and I have nothing to add except post a lot of pictures.
This a website filled with people that have built an entire car for under 2k, some of which are doing 10 sec quarter miles, believe me you can do a lot for a little.
We are also somewhat obsessed with station wagons at the moment
So, when you talk about upgrading suspension, is Hotchkis the best way to go? Or is there something that will have the same result but be more comfortable? Also, looking at their website, is there anything I shouldn’t get or should I just replace everything?
In reply to YoungFanatic48 :
Antihero above was alluding to the Grassroots Motorsports Challenge. I run half budget $1009 so I have to be real cheap. My suspension last year was under $100 and it'll out handle most "sports" cars. You need to decide what you what from the car. Is it going to be a daily driver run to the grocery store but lots of hp or do you want to autocross it, maybe you just want a 12 second drag car that you only drive to the track. Start your build with the goals. Not the exact hp you want but how you want to use the car in real life.
It wouldn’t be a daily driver, but we also aren’t really going to race it. That being said, it will probably see the road most of the summer since the weather is nice then. As far as handling goes I’d want it to be comfortable and controllable. I just don’t want to have to get out and beg someone to drive it because the suspension is so stiff it makes the car unbearable, but also be able to turn well like I already said. Sorry that I’m ignorant when it comes to things like this lol. Does that help any?
zordak said:My $.02 worth. I agree with the above about 400 hp, I had a 96 formula with the lt1. It had enough get up and move I could light up the tires easily. Get all the mechanicals done first, get running and driving well before doing any finish paint or interior. Sub frame connectors and the WS6 sway bars and braces are a must with even just 400 hp. This will get you a nice well mannered car with enough get up and move to get to experience the pucker of sphincters.
Then a factory performance setup sounds like it fits your needs. Again that's junkyard stuff other than the subframe connectors.
If I were to get a junkyard 6.0l LS, are there things I should do internally? I feel like there is but then again those with lack of experience don’t know much
In reply to YoungFanatic48 :
Still depends on your goals.
For 400 hp, won't be necessary.
For 600 hp it might be.
Will a tune up be all I really need to get 400 hp? Correct me if I’m wrong but doesn’t engine hp have to be noticeably higher so that there’s 400 hp to the wheels? Also, there is a stock LS3 I can get that I can just drop in and hook up because it’s got all the bolt ons included for 4K. A lot more than you’re guy’s idea for a junkyard pull but is it worth it?
worth it heck yea, affordable , yea for some folks.
Another question that arose. Should I get a new transmission or rebuild the old one? If it’s something that’s usually for performance only then I’m fine with leaving it stock but if the transmission can’t take the power output of the engine what would be the best route to take?
did you decide on a tranny?, BUT YEA A NEW OR REBUILT IS NICE. for what you want a 350 is fine with basic upgrades, I like a 200r4 myself . if you want manual remember 4th in most all trans /unless 3 speed / is 1:1 5&6 are usually OD's get something from a v8 stay away from 6 cyl,tranny's if you can .forgot your year but the 700 is fine .
As of right now, we do want to keep it a manual car. Any specific suggestions for that?
I am really old, I feel and old Muncie is just right and they run a grand and up, maybe a bit cheaper the chevy 5 speeds come in several verity's . look for a v-8 unit. recently here there was a post about the different tranny's avail. today and what to avoid.
if you dont want to have to worry about getting into the engine at all you can try to find a 6.2 from the Silverado/Sierra/Escalade. They are factory rated at 400 hp, with bolt ons and a tune they will probably put that much to the wheels. no need to touch the cam or valvetrain.
i haven't done a manual with ls before but i think you must use bell housing for that engine and not sure of trans bolt pattern, but im sure it's different.
hokay,
400hp 3rd gen, with LS power?
Not going into the engine stuff, many others with more knowledge there than I have. Figure for RWHP take crank and add %15. so 400RWHP would be about 460 at the crank.
T56 trans might be ok, but otherwise you are looking at a Tremec TKO (5 speed), or Magnum (6 speed). A stock, but fresh T56 if driven right should hold up under this. Parts source, 4th gen camaro with LS.
Rear end, moser 9 inch. Otherwise, you will break a 10bolt if you have any fun with it. (buckle up, this will cost $1-2K)
At a minimum, subframe connectors. These cars are flexy
For the suspension. Call Sam Strano, explain what you want to do with the car, put on whatever he tells you. http://www.stranoparts.com/
There are some IROC steering parts that are worth finding if you arent starting with an IROC, IIRC.
You might want to check out the Sloppy Mechanics youtube channel everything you're asking is well documented over there. No need to buy a crate motor for that power range a junkyard 4.8 with a $500 turbo will make 600ish and a 6.0 with a LSA blower will do about the same. For transmission a 4L80e and a HD2 shift kit will hold some serious power or if you want a 6 speed and have the cash a T56 Magnum is an excellent transmission just like Apexcarver said.
Welcome to the new era of hot rodding, catalog builds are over rated anyway.
In reply to Ram50Ron :
I agree that a 4.8L LS can make up to 600 HP. However, that's pushing it, and you are gonna have reliability issues for a street driver.
Plus, the 4.8L is never gonna have the torque that the bigger displacement engines have, and this is a heavy car. A 4.8L would be frowned upon by potential future buyers. I would suggest that a premium build would warrant a 6.0L.
I am building 2 cars right now, one with each. My low budget build is just as you called it. A 4.8L junkyard motor in a lightweight car (Miata). But the bigger car (a 1960 El Camino) will get a 6.0L. It's 4000 lbs, and wants torque.
In reply to Apexcarver :
Can you send me a link to the rear end I should get? Or is it not quite that simple?
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