In reply to Box4VIR :
They're also very long superchargers, though they're lubricated with engine oil which is a big bonus.
The only twincharge project on here I know of, was a Foxbody turbo Mustang because the 2.3 Lima has dual spark plugs per cylinder; they used that to keep the cylinder temps low. I think they used a common Eaton M90 twin screw as the charger and it only ran up to 8PSI or so.
Box4VIR, I found your thread originally on 986forum and then found this site. Great build, I have read it all. I have a couple questions i am hoping you can answer. I read what you did to widen the front but couldn't find any mention of how you widened the rear. Is it just low offset wheels? If it is can you share the size, offset and if you use a spacer? I read this is 9 in over stock, is that per side front and back? Thanks for any info you are willing to share and epic build.
Box4VIR said:...My other take away from the week (simply because I have a problem and can't stop) is I think I should hack the roof off. It was, of course, originally a convertible. I'd have to cut some of the front cage out and the windshield out, lower the seat and add some open cockpit cage adjustments to make it "safe". Has anyone run an open cockpit car? I think it would be a hoot.
Here's a few pics of a car I saw at Eagles Canyon last year. I expect that the humps make for slightly less turbulence on the driver.
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With my single center radiator in the frunk and a stock 2.7L engine, it seems like I loose a lot of cooling over about 70 mph. At that point, I wonder if: a) The radiator fan is more of a hinderance than help. b) Airflow changes enough to shift the high/low pressure areas enough to significantly reduce airflow.
All I've got to look at is Fred's old CFD pics at 180km: https://www.flickr.com/photos/gtcollection/with/32215148593/
I think your plan of adding corner radiators will work well with a big opening and no fan - the center radiator is adequate for lower speeds and static cooling.
In reply to Outkasted :
Thanks! The rear is just low offset wheels, I found them used off of a RWB 930 and then made the fenders to fit. The front and back is 80's wide (outside sides of tires), so its around 10"s wider total. No idea on the offset, they're 17"x12" wheels and easily could be two inches wider (on the inside before it hits the strut).
AAZCD-Jon (Forum Supporter) said:Box4VIR said:...My other take away from the week (simply because I have a problem and can't stop) is I think I should hack the roof off. It was, of course, originally a convertible. I'd have to cut some of the front cage out and the windshield out, lower the seat and add some open cockpit cage adjustments to make it "safe". Has anyone run an open cockpit car? I think it would be a hoot.
Here's a few pics of a car I saw at Eagles Canyon last year. I expect that the humps make for slightly less turbulence on the driver.
-------
With my single center radiator in the frunk and a stock 2.7L engine, it seems like I loose a lot of cooling over about 70 mph. At that point, I wonder if: a) The radiator fan is more of a hinderance than help. b) Airflow changes enough to shift the high/low pressure areas enough to significantly reduce airflow.
All I've got to look at is Fred's old CFD pics at 180km: https://www.flickr.com/photos/gtcollection/with/32215148593/
I think your plan of adding corner radiators will work well with a big opening and no fan - the center radiator is adequate for lower speeds and static cooling.
That looks great, man I'm on the fence. I wish I had driven a car without a windshield.
Interesting note in aero too. It's definitly only over heating at high speeds, I thought because of the load but maybe there's something more too it. Aero....inpossible.
Alternative idea. Hack the roof off, and wrap a low lexan window around the cabin. I could even make a roll bar that follows the top of the windshield to add some rollover protection.
Well, I disassembled the roof and then decided..ahhhh....its a bad idea. Back to regularly scheduled programing. I made some progress on the cooling upgrades see below. In the meantime I got some track shots back, finally proof this thing has made it out to the track even if it was really REALLY limping with its cooling problems
I added one of the stock radiators back in and cut a hole in the bumper. Hopefully the additional surface area plus an additional electric water pump will solve my cooling issue. I still need to add some shrouding to the opening. Any suggestions on an electric water pump?
Box4VIR said:In reply to edizzle89 :
here you go!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0B3SRPQNP?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
I would like to thank you for this link as I just ordered a pair for my track car. Those may be the coolest lights I have seen for a radical build.
I love your car and have been drawing a LOT of inspiration from it.
I am using a Davies Craig 150 for a ls6/porsche 996 conversion - 7 years no issues .
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
Great to hear! I hope they work out for you, and if they don't...they're cheap.
the davies craig 150 is a electric water pump .They have a good website with a lot of info on different types of installations .
I really don't want to ruin another track day over heating so I'm continuing to chew on this overheating problem. I think airflow out of the hood may also be a major problem at high speeds (which is where it's over heating). The opening in the hood is certainly big enough but I think its too far forward. The radiator is angled and the opening is directly over it (and about 1.5 feet above the radiator surface. I think at high speeds the air isn't able to make the 90 degree turn and fight with the air traveling over to make it out of the hood. I have two solutions in mind
1. I added some airdams in front of the radiator exit to try and allow room for the radiator air to escape
The bigger solution is cutting the hood further back so the air has a more gradular transition. Next up I'll need to make new ducting to seal it up, I'll have to cut around the fire supression system and brake booster to get the right angle (as shown in CAD here). No stealing my brake fluid guys.
BONUS PROJECT: I still have the impossible idea of converting this car into a streatable car... so far it has not gone well. As part of the project I've been ordering cheap Amazon leather and fake leather to try and find a match to the Boxtser's red dashboard and I finally found a great match, its a better match that it appears here (the light is hitting the bars but not the dashboard). This stuff is cheap, looks great and super easy to work with. It looks just like leather, has an adhesive back and stretches. You just peel it off its back and stick it to things. I still have some trimming to do but I'm liking it so far. With 1 $15 roll I did that center console (thats just aluminum underneith) and the bars. Here's a link if you all are interested. They have lots of other colors as well. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BN1M8WP5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
That looks really slick
this car is the best possible kind of insane
Cardboard to aluminum progress, side pieces still need to be made. I'm not sure what to do with the open area after the louvers. Any thoughts?
I'm not sure how to design it, but what about a close mounted airfoil(s) over the top like an inverted a wing to create low pressure? I'm thinking venturi effect to draw air up from the radiator.
Either that or just clean up the drag underneath. Make it smooth and weather-sealed to the opening in the hood.
The overheating issue only at high speeds is strange. I haven't seen the whole thread but do you have a floor on this car? Maybe at high speeds, you're building up a low pressure zone under the car that tries to pull air down through the hood while your louvers try to push air up through the hood and the two conflicting effects cause a net zero (or low) flow of air. I'm interested to see how the open hood affects temps. I can't see how it can't help.
Keep the louvers running all the way back.
You could fit them into the curved openings or just cut the hood straight across.
you could gradually reduce the size of the louvers as they go rearwards for aesthetics.
or just put in metal mesh.
In reply to AAZCD-Jon (Forum Supporter) :
I love this idea. I've always wanted to put a wing on the front of an older 911 that is held up by the headlight fender towers (if that makes sense). I might have to mock it up, in the meantime I'm getting closer to having the venting done
In reply to jfryjfry :
I really need to do this...such a pain to make them though
I'm calling the new front hood vent done. I'm really happen how it looks visually, we'll see if it actually improves cooling or not...
On to the next project, I'm still piecing the new interior together and had the thought (which I might have shared before) that I should install clear Lexan McLaren inspired windows in the lower doors. Like the rest of the project there's absolutely no reason for this but here we are. --The blue tape shows where the window would go, maybe I'd extend it back a bit.
Wow, looks great!
One suggestion - protect the top of the brake reservoir from long term direct sunlight. If the car is always garaged or covered, no big deal. The one that I have exposed became brittle and I need to replace it.
I'm still hammering away at this interior, so far, like the rest of the car it looks like it was at the arts and crafts table but I'm getting there. It's amazing how much material you need to cover an interior.
On to the next bad idea. I'm thinking about moving the center of the windshield forward just over 2 feet. The A pillars wouldn't change. I'd just bend and cut a huge piece of lexan and trim the hood.
No wipers? I don't know if you drive in the rain but that looks like it might be difficult to have a wiper stay in contact with the windshield with such a dramatic curve. But you are a far more capable craftsman than I, and it looks pretty rad with that profile.
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