Which Tompro box is it? Did you consider Transworks minidiff?
Which Tompro box is it? Did you consider Transworks minidiff?
In reply to Kreb (Forum Supporter)
This one, I wasn't aware of the transworks minidiff, it looks like it would be great, but would require the mounting and orientation of the engine to be completely changed. I also appreciate how easy it is to change final drive ratio when the axle is driven by a chain and sprockets rather than a direct connection like that. I considered the RPM gearbox as well, as it is a lot cheaper, but I wouldn't be able to get it in time.
drove 7 hours round trip to get 4 sets of tires for it for $200, they're for a spec racer ford but will fit the Europa. 2 sets of slicks with maybe 3-4 heat cycles each and 2 sets of wets, one with one heat cycle and the other are brand new as far as I can tell
first attempt at a seat cover. The bolsters are asymmetrical because I was taking a template from the somewhat destroyed original cover and one side was more torn up than the other. On the next one, I'll just take a template from one side and mirror it for symmetry. I'm honestly probably gonna redo the entire interior at some point once I've had a bit more practice. The material is only like $20 a yard so not a big deal
I think it's neat how the Europa seats are constructed more like a racing seat than a normal car seat
If I remember correctly, the earlier ones didn't have the butt bungies
In reply to gixxeropa :
Seat looks good!
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
Thanks! I'm really happy with the materials I've chosen, it's miamicorp ultrasuede and then their hounds tooth as well, about $20 a yard so I don't feel as bad making mistakes as I would with the $120 a yard name brand alcantara. the second one is shaping up to be nicer than the first (although I should note in that picture the cover on the headrest isn't actually attached.) But I really should stop trying to sew late at night, more times than I'd like to admit I've accidentally sewn a panel on inside out, so I have the backing showing instead of the suede side of the alcantara.
Leaning towards entirely replacing the stock wiring entirely with something less British. The motor and charging will be taken from the bike, so I just need wiring for lights, wipers, and maybe a 12v outlet to plug in a device of some sort. Any recommendations on a universal kit?
engine and gearbox mocked up in the frame
Getting custom 3-way adjustable shocks from Viking for it. Apparently you can change the valving yourself. Buy once, cry once, right?
Very cool project.
looking at insurance so I can get it registered, what do y'all use? American collectors insurance is the cheapest but still more than expected, hagerty wants more than i pay on my daily driver Cayman. In my experience collectors used to be way cheaper, is it just me?
gixxeropa said:looking at insurance so I can get it registered, what do y'all use? American collectors insurance is the cheapest but still more than expected, hagerty wants more than i pay on my daily driver Cayman. In my experience collectors used to be way cheaper, is it just me?
I use Grundy for stated value on my play cars...but they are typically in line with hagerty, but cheaper than the big box places
seeing how far I can get with the original paint. Some fine steel wool and a compound got me here. Might go for another step with a finer polish just to see
not gonna be a professional sign painter any time soon but good enough for me
ended up going with a painless performance 10202 wiring kit for it. all my thoughts of keeping the stock harness were erased once i looked deeper and started finding the scotch locks and random cut wires lol
On a different topic, currently chopping up my expensive poured foam seat in my F600 in order to harvest an extra inch or so of headroom under the roll hoop. Just now noticing how much weight I've gained since I made it about a year ago lol, need to get back to chicken and rice instead of costco pizzas
even with the removed foam, my head is closer than I'd like to the top of the roll bar so I think I'm gonna run sans seat at road atlanta this weekend and then send myself to fat camp until i fit in the seat better
I have similar struggles with my KBS, actually wound up moving the heel rest down a bit to gain a smidge of room.
I use kaizers on my F500, if it's the same spun aluminum as the 10" wheels, they may not be perfectly round at purchase, but very light. Be careful mounting. I just assemble my wheels on new tires to not risk bending.
In reply to Apexcarver :
mines a KBS too, might have to mess with the pedals or something. Or maybe just eventually move to a car more accommodating to someone my height
Love seeing this on Page 1
Cool project.
Re insurance: I have American agreed upon on the 76 911. I think it's fair for what it is. I have the 50 CJ3A with USAA and I think its high. I'm considering changing companies.
any thoughts on which way to go for a shifter? the purpose built sequential lever shifters are super overpriced, so I was thinking either fabricate something or buy a normal shifter assembly from a cable shifted car and constrain it to one dimension. my F600 has a paddle shifter with a mechanical linkage but i think I want a lever in this one
In reply to gixxeropa :
Would something like this work?
I would think you could make a lever yourself but they have a lever too
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