"this build is just mostly a tale of scope creep that i have done nothing to curtail lol."
Who has the strength (or maybe intelligence) to avoid this ???#!@?
"this build is just mostly a tale of scope creep that i have done nothing to curtail lol."
Who has the strength (or maybe intelligence) to avoid this ???#!@?
calling the engine compartment done. note the battery tray reconstructed from nothing but vibes, as the previous owner had chopped it out. Not concours but good enough for the girls I date
picked up a set of these (in 13x6), ordered from ingerland since I couldn't find any distributors in the US. They're a bit lighter than the NASCAR style steelies I have, but not a ton. Gonna wait to see them both on the car before I decide which wheels will be my street wheels vs which will be for the track
Otherwise not much going on, thankfully managed to finish the engine compartment, but now its getting to the point it's too cold to do any fiberglass stuff without a climate controlled work area. Everything left to do can be accessed with the body on the frame so I'm not stressing though. Will hopefully have the chassis in hand by the middle of this month
In reply to TurboFource :
205/60r13, and I've got some goodyear slicks that are 20x8-13 that should fit, too. I like the 13 inch wheels because SRF tires will fit and some cheap "vintage style" street tires are available
In reply to TurboFource :
Good to hear they work. That's what I was going for, maybe I'll build some flares and go wider in the future. Not sure, I'll get some miles on the car first
finally got a title in my name instead of some random guy named Dustin's. Yay! Still don't know how the tag office messed that one up
Thoughts on running hard line vs braided steel fuel line through the middle of the chassis? Hard line adds 8 extra AN fittings, which I'd like to avoid, but a lot of people say run hard line where possible. this is for the low pressure side of the fuel system, by the way. If i just run the braided line I would put sleeves on the lines so they don't rub anything in the chassis
I agree with Angry, either should be fine. I like to use panel grommets and an extra heat shrink where the lines go through sheet metal.
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:i'd do whatever is cheapest.
Exactly what I wanted to hear, fantastic
Every Europa is a little different.
I run 205/60 13 on my 1970 S2.
The front rubs (during sharp turns and entering driveways) at the center top of the wheel arch and center of the tire at the rear (near your foot).
The rear rubs at the top of the arch on bumps.
Both are slight rubs and have only broken / removed some fiberglass on the inside of the wheel arch. You have to look to notice it. I'm am adding about 1/2" of clearance in both areas during my restoration.
Ron
In reply to RonPNW :
I'll keep an eye out for that, not afraid to modify the fiberglass if i need to
turns out that ptfe hose and normal AN fittings aren't compatible? I read a few threads about AN fittings and watched a few videos and nowhere mentioned that, so fyi if you want to run ptfe hose you need ptfe fittings, which are a good bit more expensive, it seems.
In reply to TurboFource :
I'm definitely not handy with a tube bender, plus with the high pressure and low pressure side of the system, that's a lot of tube to bend
managed to acquire a new old stock lens to replace one cracked taillight. Also got a nice used one to replace the other side. This is basically a Jaguar xke lens with different colors, but they don't reproduce it in the correct colors so you have to find a used one or maybe just convert to the whole Jaguar tail light
SJ Sportscars does show the lenses as available: RH Lens LH Lens
Whether or not they have them is another thing. As for the correct colours, that all depends on if you want the Euro look or the federal look. Unfortunately the Euro type has a different lamp base. My car was supposed to have the Amber/Red lamps, and it came with them, but someone along the way swapped out the bases.
In reply to RoddyMac17 :
I don't mind either, but in the interest of keeping the budget from ballooning even more, I decided keeping the original base and getting good, used lenses was best
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