Kristi KT-3 snowcat restomod

test fitting the new floors and rear benches.

still need to trim the tops but its looking good. I copied what was in there. . . I cant figure out if mine has the extra step because it was configured for carrying a stretcher? (offered as a factory option and this machine was originally purchased by the colorado highway patrol) or if this is just something homemade by a previous owner. Kristi did make fiberglass tubs for the rear like this

so it seems more likely that it was like this from the factory but I may never know

I bet stretcher is the answer. Or footrest!

In reply to java230: makes sense to me. dont know what the minimum width is for one but this step measures just over 22" wide.

also came up with this dog house cover for the rear frame and axle. pretty happy with it

if I had the budget i would do stainless diamondplate floors

2K4Kcsq wrote: if I had the budget i would do stainless diamondplate floors

You only have 40 horsepower, though.

Jerry From LA wrote:

2K4Kcsq wrote: if I had the budget i would do stainless diamondplate floors

You only have 40 horsepower, though.

Maybe he meant the budget for a turbo?

haha true. how heavy you think a 2'x6' piece is?? cant be that bad if its not to thick. but more than the wood i'm sure. fair enough. no stainless floors till i add required turbo to haul them

Aluminum diamond plate!

Carbon fiber diamond plate!

In reply to codrus:

didnt even know that existed! but there is no way its in this budget.

Use bambo flooring for a convering over the substrate.

That way as you are trudging through the snow, it will look like you are in a steam room!~!!!

Just leaving this here, not cause it applies to your build, but it is your fault that I am looking at stuff like this.

http://m.finn.no/car/used/ad.html?finnkode=54150122

Courtesy of Volvo. Looks like an Amazon under the hood.

that is wicked!! would be cool to have a powered trailer of sorts.

got going on the fuel tank today. waiting on a por-15 kit but I went ahead and started with a gallon of acetone and a piece of chain that normally holds the hood open. here is how it looked after draining and drying out.

then after 2 rounds, half gallon each.

look at all that red sludge!

think ill run the acetone thru a coffee filter and go again. couldnt hurt. I just hope that marine clean can take care of whats left because I dont think I can get it all. maybe another fresh gallon before the kit is used.

after 4 rounds im still getting crap out of the tank. not sure if I should keep going with new acetone or if the por15 cleaner can handle the rest. anyway, more pics

smaller quantities but still coming out with more red junk. I wonder if someone halfassed a tank liner before me

here is what the last bit of fuel looks like after settling out for a week. dont mind the leaves.

Fiberglass tank?

no its steel,

but I have no idea whats on the inside. looks like alot of fine grain dirt and sand mixed with whatever the red stuff is that looked like dried paint before I started running acetone thru it

the fine grain stuff reminds me of this. . .

and this. .

starting to think they are all related.

took advantage of the "warm" temps today and cleaned the inside.

make your mark a good one, especially where no one is looking

Is that stuff in the bottom of the tank loose or breaking free? I wonder if Berrymans chemdip would touch it, or maybe go nuclear and have it boiled at a radiator shop?

I think that tank was lined and you're removing it now. I'll second taking it to a hot tank at an engine shop and starting fresh.

I'd take the tank to a radiator shop, or make one. Looks like a simple box?

New aluminum one sounds like a good option.

If I could weld aluminium or had the money for materials I totally would! but I think this tank is salvagable. someone on the snowcat forums recommended muratic acid so I will be giving that a try on whats left in there before doing the por-15 process.

the radiator shop crossed my mind but im not sure we have any around here anymore. . . everyone just buys new in this age of plastic radiators and throw away parts

In reply to 2K4Kcsq:

If you can find an engine machine shop that still does "hot tank" cleaning of iron engine blocks that will do just as well. With that coating coming off like it is I'd want it all gone before relining it.

Be careful with muriatic (hydrochloric) acid, the hardware store/pool stuff something like 10 molar, pretty strong stuff. Don't forget you never dilute acid by adding water to acid, only the other way around, slowly.

In reply to BrokenYugo:

very good point on diluting. I bought a gallon from walmart, I'll have to see how concentrated it is.
as for the hot tank, maybe I should try another place but the hot tank at my machinist's shop has never impressed me. if it cant take all the paint off of a block I just dont see it putting a dent in this muck. maybe he is cheap and doesnt change fluids enough

awhile back someone asked, "what happens when it breaks down?" plan B pack is begining to take shape. not pictured is a backpack with things like hand held GPS, avalanche beacon, fire starters, extra layers, food, water, etcetera. I deffinetly will not take off into the backcountry without preparation. I need a nice split board kit to finish things off.

Just get some skis already!