In reply to loosecannon :
Needs bomb fins 
In reply to loosecannon :
Needs bomb fins
In reply to Piguin :
Exactly my thoughts on the 2130 vs 230 styling. Had to get rid of the boxy and bring the flaring back. conekillerautoX on youtube - I have a lot of videos on them both
Hello Everyone, Here's a few pics of what I'm working on in the garage. its a tribute to an iconic Race Car that dominated FIA Racing in the late 1990's, the MB CLK-GTR. The build features a full Tube Chassis, Mid-Engine Twin Turbo V6, Corvette Hubs, & Suspension, Heat and A/C , Volvo electric Power Steering and a Hand-Formed Aluminum Body, The plan is to make this a road going car when completed and getting registered as a custom-home built vehicle. Im about 5 years into this so its a slow going project, as time and money allow. But making steady progress and looking forward to hearing from the members here, all the best , -Vince
These last 2 are recent
This is what im going for.....
Thank for reading ! -Vince
Completely out of my usual wheelhouse. I'm doing a mechanical restoration on this old commercial lawnmower
Well the no title parts car (engine donor for my Boxster) is now going to be a challenge build.
I kept thinking about it. Bought it for $500, hope to sell interior for that much. Needs a clutch $250, sell more parts. Get a set of tires, exempt from budget, buy a seat and some mods.
Figured not a bad crazy build for a first challenge attempt.
Some of you know that I work at a British car restoration shop (Red Bearing Restoration) 2 days a week and the owner has decided to build a race car out of a 1952 Austin A30. I don't know if it comes across in pictures but this car is small. How small? It has a shorter wheelbase than an MG Midget and is narrower than a Mini. Somehow it has seating for 4 and an engine bay big enough for a 4 cylinder. Midget suspension and brakes bolt right on so I did a complete front suspension/brake swap on it and wanted to show you some tiny cross drilled rotors. It's going to get a 1275 cc engine out of a Midget and we'll do the usual high compression, cam, ported heads, lightened flywheel and dual carb mods on it. These engines are really fun when they are hotted up a bit.
Man that's a good one.. I'd go for broke put a big block Chevy in it, with a blower slam it down and slap on some Datons. You will definitely raise some eye brows. Lol on the more serious note port and polish is good don't know if you can bore out the 4 and those dual carbs are like twins exactly alike but act differently pain to dial in and once you do and you drive up the road to show it off lets say 4 hours away all the parameters change and you got to redial her in for everthing from altitude temperatures and humidity. Go early redial it in and be the Austin A30 it once was Good luck! Hell just have fun and meet new folks out there.
That's what Grassroots is all about bringing wonderful people together sharing their experiences and passing along a vast wealth of knowledge that can't be bought.
Ive been working on a buick regal 4 dr, not as slow as you'd think for a 74.
Just started a thread on my latest retirement project. This one is number 7. I restore derelict vehicles for fun, not profit. Here's the progression:
And now, the latest...
Building my first project car was a stupid combination of one thing I grew up with and one I got for free the engine a ford 302 from a 1989 ford mustang is getting a full rebuild and refresh with new injectors, cnp conversion, and lots of new sensors and adding a turbo for 500whp goal. The chassis is an awd jdm mitsubishi chariot chassis. Mods for the chassis will be a transmission tunnel fab, rear cantilever suspension, and custom wiring harness for everything. The goal is a streetable drift taxi that will be plenty fun, reliable and about as fuel efficient as a lexus is250. And maybe some trying to make some carbon fibre parts if i want to test myself and feel baller. It's my project but I'm building it with my father as a bonding experience. 
Hope she fits here! A build/project of mine for the past couple years. I've been rag-dolling this little gumball of mine to find what upgrades suit her best. With some modest modifications to the suspension, exhaust system, interior, exterior, and oem mounts.
In reply to Serial_car_restorer :
solid taste across the board
finishing up a long term 928 restoration project, then back on the datsun roadster, paint the cappuccino nose after the core support replacement, and then hope to not buy another project until something sells to free up some room.
Bronco EV build!
OK, it's a powerwheels, but's it still a build. My grandson's 2nd birthday is coming up, hope to have it done in time. Started with a pristine Bronco, $50 on FBM. Weak 6v battery, one wheel drive, but otherwise in excellent shape.
The stock hood and tailgate don't open, but I fixed that with a Sawzall and a Dremel. Small piano hinge at the rear of the hood, and some plastic panels finished out the frunk.
The tailgate is actually part of the body, not a separate piece. A few careful minutes with a saw fixed that. Gotta have an opening tailgate, right? Another small piano hinge at the bottom of the tailgate and some plastic panels to close off the openings in the body were needed here. I'll add small cables to support the open tailgate and magnetic latches to hold it closed.
Picked up a parts donor Jeep on FBM for $100, advertised as having a bad battery but all that was wrong with it was a dead charger. I stripped all the running gear (four 12 volt motors and gearboxes, power steering box, wheels/tires, rear suspension, etc) and electrical harness (Bluetooth remote control, soft start, multiple power levels, etc) out of the Jeep, started working on getting most of it into the Bronco. I considered using the Jeep front suspension under the Bronco, but it was just too cheezy, flimsy, and weird.
I decided to fabricate an entire front axle and suspension for the Bronco, to use the motors, gearboxes, and wheels from the Jeep. The axlehousing is a section of old garage hydraulic floor jack handle, with welded on knuckles, a track bar bracket, coilover shock mounting tabs, and pass-through tubes for the radius arm bolts.
Shifter kart spindles (5/8" diameter, 7" long) fit into the knuckles. Thin Delrin bushings between the kingpin bolts and spindle bore allow easy rotation.
The portal motor gearboxes slip over the spindles after opening up the center of the output gear a bit.
The new tie rod, track bar, and drag link are internally threaded (LH/RH) aluminum tubing with 1/4" rod ends.
The front suspension mocked up in place under the Bronco. The upper track bar mount uses one of the original front suspension mounting points under the plastic body. The drag link attaches to the power steering box from the Jeep - which will allow remote control steering.
The adjustable coilover shocks have lengthened shafts and added coils to accommodate the increased height and axle articulation.
The radius arms are 3/8" aluminum tubing, attached to rear mounts that are welded to the Bronco "frame rails" that run under the body.
The rear suspension from the Jeep carried over into the Bronco will little modification other than longer, adjustable coilover shocks.
Still need to install the electrical system, adding an additional 12 volt lithium battery for increased capacity. 12 volt motors and portal gearboxes at every wheel, coilover shocks at every corner for increased articulation, larger wheels, softer tires for more traction, full remote control...I hope he likes it.
In reply to earlybroncoguy1 :
That does deserve its own build thread. Your grandson is very, very lucky.
Can't be really sure due to the angle of the pics, but the bronco seems to have gained a LOT of height with the bigger wheels and the extended shocks. More pictures, please
Piguin said:In reply to earlybroncoguy1 :
That does deserve its own build thread. Your grandson is very, very lucky.
Can't be really sure due to the angle of the pics, but the bronco seems to have gained a LOT of height with the bigger wheels and the extended shocks. More pictures, please
Here you go:
Trying to decide between the red coils, or the blue coils, on the shocks.
and of course, the gratuitous "flex" shot:
In reply to earlybroncoguy1 :
Awesome build!
I second the motion that the Powerwheels Bronco deserves its own build thread!
In reply to VinceWheels :
One of my favorites from that era. What windshield are you using? Dodge Stealth glass? How close is it to the real thing?
In reply to Grecobeemer :
Also one of my favorites !
The windshield is from a Porsche 911 (997, 2004-2013) . after looking at and measuring many , many cars -imagine sketchy guy leaning over your parked car's hood with a tape measure. I had this particular glass on my short list and this one popped up on CL nearby.
I put up a bunch of vids on the Youtube showing the build from the beginning :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FxkXbtxEJDg
-Thanks for your interest
Hello car project builders wherever you are. Untitled Car Project is a podcast dedicated to Car projects. We are looking for car project enthusiast to come on the show and talk about your project build. Cars preferred but motorcycles accepted as well. Contact us at untitledcarproject@gmail.com find the podcast on your favorite podcast streaming service.
https://taplink.cc/untitledcarproject
Well insurance should be inspecting my 2011 Touareg tomorrow after a little incident from last Thursday.
For some reason I'm going to ask about buyback value because I'm not sure why??? Fix it maybe? Part out?
My current project - well, one of my current projects - is a '71 Bronco. Not a restoration, more of a resto-mod. Chassis and drivetrain are pretty much done, working on the body now. Original body was just too far gone - bent, rusty, and mangled. I ended up buying a complete new body (expensive, yes, but saved me a TON of work and time). To go along with the new body, I decided to build a new dash, and change it up a little. The original Bronco dash was pretty basic, but the location and arrangement of some things needed some....updating.
For reference, here's a stock, original 1970's Bronco dash:
Utilitarian, to say the least. Speedometer/gauges to the left of the column, various switches and knobs arranged here and there, radio, ashtray and speaker grille that I won't be needing, and the glovebox way over on the passenger side, where the door hits the rollbar tube (if you have a rollbar).
I wanted to move the stock speedo to the center of the dash, delete the radio, ashtray, speaker grille, and all of the HVAC knobs. Add four, flush mounted 2022 Bronco A/C vents, and move the glovebox location over to the left a few inches to make room for a rollbar. The only knobs/switches will be ignition key cylinder, headlights, wipers, and hazard flashers, two on either side of the column.
First, I mocked up the new dash with a cardboard template to visualize where things would go and determine the right spacing:
Then I ordered four A/C vents for a 2022 Bronco, and used them to check sizing, spacing, and clearance. The dash in this photo was my old dash, previously modified somewhat.
Once I was sure of where I wanted everything, I contacted a guy who fabricates custom dash panels for Jeeps, and asked him to bend up a panel for a Bronco. He did:
The layout I chose is basically the same as a 2022 Bronco, (minus the huge display screen):
Once it arrived, I got to work fabricating the mounts and brackets to flush mount the A/C vents to the back of the dash, and test fit the speedo and glove box door.
Once I was sure where I wanted the switch knobs for the lights, wipers, and hazard flashers, and the ignition switch, I measured, marked, center-punched, then carefully drilled the holes, started small and worked my way up to the right size. Some of the bezels have a slight bevel to them on the back side, where they contact the face of the dash, so I had to dimple the face of the dash slightly to allow them to sit flat against it. Since I don't happen to have a Greenlee punch handy, I had to improvise with two sockets and a bolt. Set the small (1/2") socket against the face of the dash, run the bolt through it, set the larger socket (13/16") against the back of the dash, tighten the nut on the threads of the bolt to dimple the sheetmetal. Worked great.
Test fit in the body to make sure the shifter for the ZF 5 speed clears the dash.
Turns out the shifter clears OK (it's in 3rd in that photo), but the rear of the A/C vent assemblies don't quite clear the cowl structure behind the dash, under the windshield. Relatively easy fix, the 2022 Bronco A/C vent assemblies are actually 2 seperate pieces - the adjustable vents that attach to the back of the dash, and a rectangular tube that clips to it and has the flapper door inside it to control the airflow. The tube is slightly angled upward in stock configuration, but it easily unclips, can be rotated 180 degrees, and clipped back into place, which angles it slightly downward, just the right amount to clear the cowl.
The rough areas on the vent tubes are where I cut off the original factory brackets that are used to attach them to the back of a 2022 Bronco dash - much too large to work in this application, so a Dremel removed them easily. You can see the tiny clips that keep the 2 pieces together, they are not quite symmetrical, so they don't all line up when one piece is flipped 180 degrees. No problem, the ones that do are strong enough to do the job. What is a problem is the arm that connects the wheel under the vent to the flapper door in the tube will no longer fit, so I will have to fabricate some new ones to resolve that.
Here is the air tube attached to the far right side vent, beside the glovebox opening. You can see how angling them down is needed to clear the cowl behind the dash.
I'll be using a Vintage Air Gen IV HVAC system, which mounts where the orginal Bronco heater core/fan unit was, on the inside firewall behind the dash, above the passenger footwell. it seems like a lot of space there, but the Gen IV unit is pretty big, and will take up almost all of that space - in fact, the glovebox probably won't even fit. Instead of a glovebox there, I'll probably put the fusebox and relay panel of the Painless Wiring harness there for easy access.
I swapped the stock fan on my '93 Saab 9000 for a Spal unit quite a while ago, and the wiring has been kind of a mess ever since. Finally designed and printed some brackets to get things tied down properly.
Small step but still a win. Next I need to get that breaker tied down to the chassis somewhere. Probably right on the little brace it's next to.
Also, @earlybroncoguy1 I am absolutely stealing this trick:
Brilliant!
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