And now with the bar milled precisely for the end pipes. They are not cut down to the correct height and welded yet. Thinking I will put the motor in the car before I finalize that.
And now with the bar milled precisely for the end pipes. They are not cut down to the correct height and welded yet. Thinking I will put the motor in the car before I finalize that.
Bought some replacement trunk lid hinge pivots. These need to be welded on to the inner fenders. I am not sure why the previous owner deleted them and then painted the engine compartment without replacing them?
Not a lot of other progress unfortunately..... been absorbed at work and some house Reno projects.
Ok so my block is at the machine shop awaiting hot tanking and magnafluxing.
if it passes that here is the official plan:
On a a different note I painted up an extra 914 door to hang on the wall as faux race car art.
All part of the details..... new custom emblem 
See, GRM is awesome.
Awesome - let me know about the shipping.
Pierre
Why when I click on my profile does it go to “Nitroracer” ??
Thanks Richard - Paypal sent.
Pierre
Got some more progress on the bumper and valence opening done.
Incase anyone one noticed... I am also “morecowbell” just found my login details for that account.
I raised the opening on the bumper another 1.25” to allow for more airflow to the rad.
1st skim of the bondo - looks better already
The lower valence also also got some welding completed around the opening - ready for some bondo skims as well now.
Quite excited about finding a set of 911 struts for a decent price. These are a direct bolt on upgrade to bigger vented brakes/Calipers as well as the “proper way” to convert to 5 bolt.
These will need a going through and repainting before use.
I got some time in the garage on the weekend and welded on the new trunk hinge pivots. Now the car has a functional trunk lid again - small victory but all progress is good.
Easier to do now while the motor is still out.
Block back and ready for machining 
Yeah, for sure the casting lines, and on the heads, too.
I usually really smooth up the oil drains in the lifter valley.
Some blocks also need a bit of clearancing for some double roller timing chains.
Ok - slightly different route....
Finally a bit of an update.
I found a really good local deal on another 283 - freshly bored .040 over, new pistons, rods and a forged 3” crank. Pretty much a ready to go short block.
The very mild hydraulic cam in it is not what I want....
I am not sure though if it will have enough compression with the flat tops and power pack heads (62cc approximately) to work well with the 3030 Elgin copy solid cam I got from Richard?...
I am thinking about possibly the L79 hyd cam or the 097 Duntov solid cam which is a bit milder or maybe a more modern profile all together?
It is a light car (2200 lbs) and I purposely don’t want a lot of power/torque low in the rpm range for transaxle longevity. I would however like to spin it fairly high to get the power. Heads have 172/150 valves, updated beehive springs, retainers and are fresh.
What opinions might be out there regarding a good cam choice for this overall combo?
305 heads for more compression?
In reply to RichardSIA :
I had the heads cc’d at the machine shop and the guy said 62.5.
However the casting code seems to indicate either 60cc or 62cc depending the post? The valve size is correct though.
#3795896 – Manufactured from 1963-1965 on 283 Cubic Inch engines. Called the “Power Pack” cylinder heads. 1.72˝ intake valves and 1.50˝ exhaust valves. 60cc Combustion Chambers
I think the next step I need to do is measure the piston to deck height to get a clear idea of what I am working with in combination with the heads to determine possible compression.
1 more indication of 60cc for the heads casting code. It is not that I don’t believe the guy at the shop that they are 62.5.... but it doesn’t seem to jive with most of what I find out there for this casting #?
the date casting code looks like it is c1463 which I think would be March 14 1963?
So it looks like I will need new “new pistons” with some dome to bring up the compression ratio.
With the current pistons about .040 below the deck, 4 valve reliefs to account for and 62.5 cc heads the CR with a thin ( .015) head gasket leaves me at about 8.4to 1 
If I replace the pistons with some that bring me up to the deck height it should be easy to get into the 10:1 range.
Even if I just switched to 58cc heads it doesn’t do much to improve the situation.
So so it looks like it is either deck the block or buy new pistons?
Add boost would be ultimately more fun.
</evil_grin>
In reply to SkinnyG :
Haha - yes in a normal build.
Ideally this what I want to end up with:
I think the cam cam I got from Richard fits this parameter fairly well. Virtually all recent forum posts on Chevy sites say skip the “30/30 cam” as there are far better modern grinds... in my case I don’t think that is actually what I am after. I don’t need more power or fuel economy, not hugely concerned about adjusting valve lash once in a while either. It seems like a solid cam like this is the answer for high rpm fun. Also, the advertised rpm range starting at about 3000 rpm will likely come on a bit faster I suspect in a 2000lb car with a 12# flywheel?
I think what I really need to determine is, in a smaller cube motor, how much compression will I need for decent results?
Pierre
RichardSIA said:I found a really good local deal on another 283 - freshly bored .040 over, new pistons, rods and a forged 3” crank. Pretty much a ready to go short block.
Your easy and inexpensive answer is to get the block decked to bring up the compression to at least 9.5-1.
Depending on how much the block is decked, it may also require machining the intake manifold as well so that it will bolt up to the heads without leaks.
I'm running 10.9:1 on my daily driver 350, with a cam that idles at 8inHg in drive. It runs just fine on 91 octane, with 35° timing full advance and iron heads. The magic might be that I actually do have 0.040" quench, which may be the saving grace. And a very smoothed (but not polished) combustion chamber.
If you deck the block down to .025" in the hole, use a steel shim head gasket (with Permatex Copper Gasket Spray!!!!), you should be right there. Might not mess up the intake fit too badly, but I'm no pro engine builder.
SkinnyG said:I'm running 10.9:1 on my daily driver 350, with a cam that idles at 8inHg in drive. It runs just fine on 91 octane, with 35° timing full advance and iron heads. The magic might be that I actually do have 0.040" quench, which may be the saving grace. And a very smoothed (but not polished) combustion chamber.
If you deck the block down to .025" in the hole, use a steel shim head gasket (with Permatex Copper Gasket Spray!!!!), you should be right there. Might not mess up the intake fit too badly, but I'm no pro engine builder.
Thanks - I just noticed you are in BC as well!
I am in Abbotsford.
Holy Carp!
I didn't even think to check (where you are, not where I am). I'm in Kelowna.
A colleague up here has a 355 in a 914. Was told to never use first gear. Ever.
Yes I have heard that too... unless going up a steep drive way 
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