y u no 8/21?
y u no 8/21?
Strike_Zero wrote: It's two RH shorty manifolds. On the driver side, it will run around the front of the engine to the passenger side and connect to a y-pipe after the starter. Check out Day 4 for pics.
Saw those....I meant downstream of the headers. But the "y-pipe" answers my question. Was trying to think through the muffler situation and needed to know if you were trying to run duals or a larger single. Since it's all got to pass through 1 muffler I'd hang the biggest case that will fit. You running 3" or 3.5"?
With the cast iron heads (even the 40's/P's) the motor will thank you for anything you can do to help it out on the exhaust side of things. If you're not running stock cam, exhaust bias on the replacement will help. 1.7's on the exhaust side will help. And all of that is more important if you're running a 3" single exhaust instead of 3.5".
4cylndrfury wrote: y u no 8/21?
Lazy 
I ran into a snag. I'll have the details later tonight.
In reply to MichaelYount:
Gotcha!!
I'm running a 2 2.5" to y-pipe to 3.5".
The cam is an old F-Cam (226/226 .512/.512 on 1.6). I got it for $0 (traded stock HO cam). And the heads are indeed P-heads.
The MG V8 guys bring up the hydraulic throw-out bearings on a regular basis. Never heard of anyone who had a good experience. When you consider that you have to pull the box to play with it, I would avoid at all cost.
Getting them to work is only the first step. Getting them to keep working is just as unlikely.
YMMV
In reply to NOHOME:
I was thinking about that as well. Because race car, it may be best advised make the bracket and run external for easy of maintenance.
Day 14 & 15 . . .
Halfway suckas!!
I could've sworn that the slave cylinder (assuming it's a pusher) needed to be on the other side of the fork - pushing the outside of the fork towards the back of the car, he said while scratching head and walking out to look under the hood of the 242....
those cable actuated clutches will make you scratch your head.
Since the cable pulls the release fork towards the front of the car, the push style cylinder will work.
So glad to see this progressing! Keep up the good work.
I hope to get my e36 302 build started this fall.
Day 16 and 17???? come on we're waiting.
Will be posted shortly!! I crashed out after dinner last night . . .
Getting close!!
Any chance you could review the E36V8 kit? Worth it? Lacking something?
Will a chink in the plans stop me?? Hell berk no!!
In reply to Mad_Ratel:
When I get some time, I'll do up a full review . . .
But a quick review . . . Hells yeah it is worth it.
Ouch, progress but you've got a lot of issues to over come. I don't recall, are the Explorer TB's 65mm? I ran used to run a GT40 lower intake, Explorer upper intake with an SVO 65mm TB on my 94 GT.
I hate to ask, but do you have a back up car, just in case, it doesn't come together.
Yep . . . 65mm up from the stock 55mm.
No problem on asking. There is no back up car since all of this hinges on getting a bar installed. No bar = no hillclimb.
Two blog entries in one day!! And finally caught up 
You must have a very understandung wife to be pulling 16 hour days. Mine would not be happy if I was only inside ro sleep for a month.
Keep it up man!
Thanks!! She has been a fine cheerleader through this entire process; bringing food, drinks, and other things out to the garage.
She going to brave the heat (truck doesn't have A/C 
) with me tomorrow to pick up the car . . . Mrs. Zero is a fantastic wife!!
Have you measured clearance between hood and throttle body with it in that location? Got a feeling with the sloping hood of the 3 that might be a problem. Eliminating the 90 degree turn into the manifold is a good idea in any event AND it moves the throttle back quite a bit to where there's more hood room. Curious why you didn't eliminate the elbow? Couldn't figure it out the first time through the blog....going back to look again.
Mounting the Explorer TB in the traditional Mustang location means I would need a Mustang throttle link to actuate the throttle. The Explorer throttle link throw is completely different.
With the elbow, it would a "front pull" and I can loop the throttle cable like normal. Side mounted like the Mustang, i would have to use Mustang throttle link or come up with something else as it would be "rear pull".
Let's hope is video works: Throttle cable actuation
It's pretty easy to convert the Explorer throttle body into one that works like the Stang unit does. Link below - and the parent-site link that might be helpful as you sort out the wiring harness.
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/ConvertingExplorer65mmTB.pdf
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/
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