Replacement radiator ALREADY leaking. What the berkeley.
Replacement radiator ALREADY leaking. What the berkeley.
I think we need to just find you an oem radiator in good shape... This is like what, the 4th one you have had leak?
92CelicaHalfTrac wrote: Replacement radiator ALREADY leaking. What the berkeley.
THere's no chance you've got a HG leak and it's pressurizing the system to much is there?
Don't know, just throwing it out there.
If it were pressurizing that much the overflow would be puking i think. Only using a 13psi cap. 
No signs of hg issues otherwise.
Recent compression test showed an extremely healthy motor anyways.
Yeah, I wouldn't think so, just throwing somehting out there (but you've obviously tested it so shouldn't be an issue).
It would just seem maybe something is going on, it's hard to imagine 4 straight bad radiators in a row. I mean it's possible, but the odds seem stacked against it.
Good luck figuring it out!
When I replaced the OEM rad in my 626, a plastic top tank was leaking, and the replacement was 100% copper. Is there something like that on the market today?
Maybe you could find an all-metal rad at one of this horrible shops you keep dealing with then take it to an actual radiator shop and have them go through the thing.
Join the spectra haters club...we will be putting the 3rd one in 6 months into my sisters accord shortly.
I swear every part i get either from advance/autozone seems to fail in short time. So i have sworn these off unless the situation is urgent.
Do you want to drive to Missouri and remove my all-metal radiator from my MX6? It's the one that radiator-barn used to sell...Has about 50k on it. I would want it back after the challenge though.
Thanks James, want to give it to Eric? 
I think at this point if this one is truly leaking i'll just grab that huge griffin and just claim the cost difference on the budget. Car had a working oem radiator when i bought it 25k miles ago.
Radiator seems to be okay. Fixed three other coolant leaks. Fan issue fixed for once and for all.
May or may not have "woken up" the turbo a bit. 
With the increased boost i'm now hitting 12.6:1 afr under wot full boost in the higher gears.
Little higher than i'm used to seeing on my turbo cars. Still safe?
Buddy bought a black 88 mx6 gt last night for a challenge friendly price.
Looks like there might be two red 90s,two black 88s, and Dan's white freak show at the challenge.
More F2T POWER....... BTW my personalized tags should be here soo "F2T FTW" :-D
The poster child apparently has a working factory alarm.
Kindof.
http://youtu.be/kPFAukV6rHk
92CelicaHalfTrac wrote: With the increased boost i'm now hitting 12.6:1 afr under wot full boost in the higher gears. Little higher than i'm used to seeing on my turbo cars. Still safe?
"not a turbo expert"
I would think as long as the EGT's are in check and no detonation it should be ok?
z31maniac wrote:92CelicaHalfTrac wrote: With the increased boost i'm now hitting 12.6:1 afr under wot full boost in the higher gears. Little higher than i'm used to seeing on my turbo cars. Still safe?"not a turbo expert" I would think as long as the EGT's are in check and no detonation it should be ok?
Don't really have a way to measure EGTs, and it doesn't FEEL like it's pinging. 
With more research, it seems the internet says that my AFRs are good, AND my motor is about to explode!
I'm going to bump the FPR up a nickel or two before i ramp the boost up to 15psi though.
I'm not too horribly worried about max power on this particular setup, it's just a placeholder for the FCON i'll be installing once i'm happy with the way everything else is working, and then i'll have enough control to keep the AFRS at a VERY safe 12.0:1 at any RPM.
I figured out how to control 680cc injectors on the FCON, though, so i might go shopping for some huge injectors. 
I'm seeing a lot of Miata sites in particular saying that 12.5:1 is their target under WOT/full boost. Anyone else think that sounds about right?
Strike that. Saw 13.6:1 under boost in the 65 degree air this morning. Backed out of it real quick.
I think my boost reference line to the AFPR is no good. I used the same line that went to the factory regulator, but now that i think about it, i had issues with my old Greddy Profec B Spec II getting any sort of reading off that line. Going to cap it and "T" into the intake manifold and see what happens.
I get the feeling that my fuel pressure isn't raising with boost.
Come to find out that at least 80% of my vacuum system was no longer functioning/hacked up/hooked up wrong/not present.
Rebuilt vacuum system from scratch for the most part.
Got it licked. First try yielded vacuum to the AFPR at idle, which completely screwed up my idle AFRs to the point the car would stall. Threw in a junkyard check valve and all is well. If anything, it's a little richer than i'd like. Lost a good bit of power under same boost levels, it's hovering in the 11.2-11.4:1 range under full boost now.
However... we're up to 13-14psi now and the car is getting outrageous.
Downer of the day: The OG HKS Racing BOV i bought for this car isn't functioning properly. Massive vacuum leak at idle. The retaining nut inside had come loose and was just rattling around in there, but i'm going to go ahead and clean up the whole thing before i try it again anyways.
Rebuilt the HKS BOV and installed, it's working great! Less lag, less bog, less noise. I like.
Fixed the bumper sag i had going on as well.
Nice bumper sticker.
JohnInKansas wrote: Nice bumper sticker.
Yeah! I like to show my support for GRM wherever i go!
Oh wait....
I see you bought more extensions!
garaithon wrote: I see you bought more extensions!
Heh yes, yes i did!!! Got sick of not being able to find any of my 3/8" extensions so i bought a Gearwrench set.
Also:
Oooo FD wheels! Those will look sweet!
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