In reply to Crackers :
Ill focus more on gun control and consistency with the next round of primer. See how we do.
For feedback, im attaching the filler pictures of the drivers side. Done with 80 grit on the longest blocks i could reasonably use. It feels very flat, but the surface texture is making it tough to really tell. I THINK the next step is high build, guidecoat, and blocking again with 220, right?
Can yall tell anything by looking at the pictures? Any advice? Trying to get one quarter DONE, and then the door and work around the car panel by panel with the filler. Then spray the next coat of primer. If that sounds good.
Looks good from here, your stopping when you hit high spots.
Did you try a glove or rag under your hand when feeling for smoothness?
No sir! I take it it smooth out the texture so it feels better?
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
Idk how it works, but it numbs things enough to better feel the "smoothness". Try it with a rag or a couple paper towels under your hand.
Maybe it evens the feeling between bondo, paint and metal? I close my eyes too. Seems to help not artificially feel/see the edge of the filler
The rag under my hand didn't reveal anything new. So its either right, or my sense of feel sucks.
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
Smooth 
Im jealous how fast your getting it smooth.....
Its a much smaller car than yours. It was also remarkabley straight to begin with!
Yours will be cooler when done. Mine will just be a straight and blurple neon.
Also, supply house sent me 3m 01171 for filler. This stuff works far easier and better than any other filler i have ever tried. And the fresh 80 grit....
Thanks for that. It makes a remarkable difference. But does eat through paper quickly.
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
Yeah I am on the fresh paper bandwagon.... Yeah cost $$ but saves so much time. I may need to buy another roll of 80....
That looks pretty good. You HAVE been paying attention to Java's work.
The next step would be a high fill primer. In theory you use a guide-coat over the primer to see if it is sanding off evenly, In reality, you can usually see the darker unsanded high build color indicating low spots when sanding. Looking forward to more results.
The rag actually amplifies the ripple by adding more surface area to be in contact with your hand and the panel. Try it before you start and compare after sanding. Like all things, it is a learned thing and once you "get it" you will know what to expect.
Pete
With all ghe spots of bare metal im exposing, do i need to re-epoxy prior to high build? I don't think I have to, but would rather ask.
Also, do i need to dress down past 80 grit before high build? I read something that it only fills in 220 or finer scratches.
Or am i overthinking it again?
Your high build should say what it can cover. I'd imagine it should cover 80, but there may not be much left afterwards.
"There may not be much left afterwards" is kind of the game with high build though. Lol.
Also, for clarification, the "you don't want to go there" I was referring to, was "SEMA level" flat, not so much blocking with the doors on.
Blocking with the car assembled will take a lot more fine tuning of gaps before you can truly block to flat across it and I promise not to point and laugh when you start complaining about it. :D
Is your high build DTM? If not you're going to have to spot prime the bare areas
Read the data sheet on the high fill. Even featherfill says it is ok to cover a few square inches of bare metal. Do not use a etch primer in a spray can as it reacts with the high fill.
Got it. Googled the primer and is says small amounts of bare metal are ok.
Sanding dust gets EVERYWHERE. im going to have to deep clean the shop after bodywork.
And im sanding outside!!!!
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
Leaf blower 
java230 said:In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
Leaf blower
I nominate you for governor! That's freaking GENIUS.
End of day: passengers door still has a low spot to finish. A little spot putty in a few areas, and the shell and doors should be ready for high build and a final blocking. Drivers fender needed nothing at all.
The hood and decklid are going to take some serious work. I honestly don't know if the decklid can be saved. Pretty sure the sanblaster ruined it by accident. Its low everywhere there isn't bracing. The hood is just acres of thin metal. Salvageable, but a lot of work. The passenger's fender is ROUGH. really rough. But better after beating with a hammer and flat workbench.
I started to rush and think "good enough " and called it quits. Probably 4 hours worth of blocking today all told between before work, lunch, and after work. My shoulder is sore.
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
Wish I could claim the idea.....
This hood has WAY too many curves and stuff. Its tough. Suggestions?
Have to "roll" the block.... Yeah curves are hard. But it looks like your doing well!
Art came by last night to check my progress.
Apparently im not as near to high build as i thought. He found a bunch of high spots that needed tapped down, and some ding/dip area i hadn't found. So, every panel needs more filler work. He said it was good enough for a used car lot, but not good enough for what i want to own. So, i guess that's a nice consolation prize....
The first step to being good at something is being bad at it. Then you get better. You're getting better.
Seth, i love the way you look at life and the world. I need to try to be more like you.
And you're right. I AM getting better. Looking back at the s10 (first real attempt) to now, its a million times better work.
Thanks. Makes me feel a little better this morning.
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