Nailed it! Outstanding work!
Nailed it! Outstanding work!
Did I miss a video link somewhere?
I keep dropping by this thread and being too startled to say anything. Congratulations!
NOHOME said:Did I miss a video link somewhere?
No, i'm editing some video footage, since my home address i accidentally got in the vid on fb. I also have a photoshoot tomorrow lined up, and a friend came and detailed it for me last night. So i'll get even more footage tomorrow.
mazdeuce - Seth said:Well done. Quite a journey. I can't be the only one wondering "What now?"
Do you just drive it?
Well first thing is first. All the little stuff needs to be sorted now. I still have some interior bits to put back in. I still haven't finished the GPS speedo and arduino tach. Those need to be done (and will be done). I also want to give some homage to the original stuff it went through with ultrasmith. The hideaway license plates don't work anymore, and I want to revive that.
Also revive the zapper light.
I would like to rent out some dyno time and properly dyno tune the car, since it's got a street tune that's good enough to get it around for now.
Next season I would love nothing more than to take it to PIR and ORP and do some HPDE with it. I've never been the type who just finishes a car to drive it. Even with my show worthy factory 914 I still autocrossed and flogged the piss out of it because.... that's what they were made to do, have fun with.
In reply to corsepervita :
Can I suggest that you work on as good of a street tune as possible before going to the dyno? That way you can debug some problems you may find when at the dyno- which will save time and money. Basically, it would suck to worry if the car will have problems instead of just working on the fine tuning that the dyno can do.
alfadriver said:In reply to corsepervita :
Can I suggest that you work on as good of a street tune as possible before going to the dyno? That way you can debug some problems you may find when at the dyno- which will save time and money. Basically, it would suck to worry if the car will have problems instead of just working on the fine tuning that the dyno can do.
I agree with that entirely. So far it feels pretty good. But it'll be a lot easier if I do that first. I do seem to be having some odd O2 issues right now though. It seems to be that the O2 sensor will calibrate itself just fine at first. So if I turn the key and wait, it turns on.
The second I turn it to start, the O2 controller turns off, and tries to calibrate itself again, and stays flashing. Not all the time, but sometimes. This makes absolutely no sense to me, because the start function only controls a relay that goes to the starter. There is absolutely no difference between the ECU in "on" mode and start mode because that connection is never interrupted.
I thought perhaps it could be a case of low voltage, so I put the battery on the tender last night and will see if it behaves any better. I wonder if maybe upon start the cranking amps pulled the voltage down and the controller is super picky about voltage. I do not currently have my alt hooked up, need to do that.
Hook up your alternator, then check your ignition switch. There could be a dead spot in it.
In reply to corsepervita :
Here's a "data point" comparison- when we run stuff along with the car- we have to run an isolated battery. Cranking the engine brings the volage down enough that everything else shuts off. So it makes sense that your aux stuff shuts down.
On the O2 sensor- can you avoid the calibration part? That only needs to be done once in a while, not every time it starts up. Moreso when you restart the car after maybe 10 min of it sitting there- the exhaust will still be exhaust and not air. So if it thinks that's air, it will be wrong.
alfadriver said:In reply to corsepervita :
Here's a "data point" comparison- when we run stuff along with the car- we have to run an isolated battery. Cranking the engine brings the volage down enough that everything else shuts off. So it makes sense that your aux stuff shuts down.
On the O2 sensor- can you avoid the calibration part? That only needs to be done once in a while, not every time it starts up. Moreso when you restart the car after maybe 10 min of it sitting there- the exhaust will still be exhaust and not air. So if it thinks that's air, it will be wrong.
Well, it's an LC2 so I suppose "calibrate" is a bad term, since it only does that with the o2 totally disconnected. I guess the best way to describe it is that while it's in warmup cycle to warm the sensor (about 10-15 seconds) it flashes, then goes solid green. Then once it's done that it's good. After I start the car, it goes back into flashing green, and just sits and flashes forever sometimes. Other times it goes solid and i'm good.
Jerry From LA said:Hook up your alternator, then check your ignition switch. There could be a dead spot in it.
But in theory even if there were a dead spot between on and start, once it's back to "on" i would expect it to flash for a few seconds, then go solid green and good to go. It's getting power clearly, but maybe just not enough? I'll try that first though and get the alt hooked up. I absolutely need that wideband if I'm going to properly see what my AFR is.
Well done - always nice to see a build thread make it to completion instead of fade away. One awesome car returning to the road!
Way to go, that's awesome!
maybe i missed it, and I know Im a little late to the party, but am i the only one who noticed this zombie came back to life on Halloween?
also...BERK YEAH!!!!!!!
4cylndrfury said:maybe i missed it, and I know Im a little late to the party, but am i the only one who noticed this zombie came back to life on Halloween?
also...BERK YEAH!!!!!!!
What better time to raise a zombie from the dead than halloween? hahahaha
4cylndrfury said:maybe i missed it, and I know Im a little late to the party, but am i the only one who noticed this zombie came back to life on Halloween?
also...BERK YEAH!!!!!!!
Look seven posts above yours.
Well, it's been 3 test drives now, it seems I've got some sort of toe out issue. Getting on it into 2nd results in wavy steering. Pulling back into the garage resulted in one wheel looking straight while another is toed out. Keeping in mind that I've never driven it prior, and did not pull apart the front suspension, my only suspicion is that the toe was out on the car to begin with.
Called up a Guru that knows the countach well and he said toe in should be 1/8" in. This is pretty toed out. Going to adjust accordingly tonight or tomorrow and go for another drive because it's a bit unnerving.
I did take the front wheels off to check, and there is no lateral play in the suspension, or horizontal play. Things are solid as a rock and the tie rods are fine. So I'm going to adjust the toe in to that point, and then once I feel like I can trust it, I'll take it in and have a professional alignment done. Nothing like getting into second and having it pull all over the place to make you go, "Well that puckered my butthole."
The wheel bearings, while they have no play, sound like rollerskates in the front (rear is fine) so that needs to be replaced too. Will probably just pull the hubs out and rebuild then and then adjust toe after.
Also I believe I have found my shifter gate issue. It would appear that from the factory, the rod itself that twists for the shifter assembly is not a perfectly straight bugger. This I did not know, as taking it off the shelf it appears straight. Upon closer inspection it isn't, and is 180 degrees out, explaining why I can only shift with the gate off, and also why reverse is where 1st should be. Easy fix. Will address tonight.
More of the wiring is done and she's street legal, just has the little things to sort.
Also had a photoshoot today will post pics when i get them.
In reply to corsepervita :
Isn't the resultant puckered butthole part of the allure of driving a Lambo?
Pete Gossett said:In reply to corsepervita :
Isn't the resultant puckered butthole part of the allure of driving a Lambo?
Well, preferably not with the steering going all over.
Ok, out in the shop now. Using the string method the back looks perfectly fine. But the front? YIKES. I can fit the width of my finger on one side on the toe out. Yeesh. Time to fix that. That's definitely my issue.
Ok, so I just measured, the toe out is just inbetween a 1/4 and 1/2" OUT. Total. It needs to be 1/8" IN. So it's off nearly .75" on toe. Holy E36 M3.
Found a flare wrench but that nut is on there good. Gonna soak it and go at it in the morning, and use a torch if need be. That's most certainly my issue. No wonder it's all over the damn place.
In reply to corsepervita :
Given the sounds you are hearing, the front bearings may be contributing to the handling.
Alright guys, photoshoot pics incoming
alfadriver said:In reply to corsepervita :
Given the sounds you are hearing, the front bearings may be contributing to the handling.
Oh i don't doubt it, they'll be replaced. but like i said, there's no play that i can shake with the wheel on and the car jacked up, solid as a rock, just very dry sounding.
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